| Author | Message | ||
     PETER DIXON Yet to post message Username: petenlinid Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2003 |
This is my third attempt to post this question. So if it turns up 3 times I'm sorry. I have an ugly feeling that I am going to regret asking this question and shall have all forms of condemnation heaped upon me from the purists. The seats in my car are in reasonable condition. There are a few age cracks and colour wear in the usual places. For my own use it would have been OK for quite a while. However to assist in supporting what is becoming my vehicular addiction it will be used to carry members of the public for hire and reward from time to time. After conducting a little research, particularly with owners in the USA I became convinced that the product Leatherique was the way to go to restore the offending bits and subsequently purchased a complete kit of same. From the digital before and after pictures I have seen it appears to be really good stuff but I am now having second thoughts about using the product in favour waiting until I can afford to have the seats recovered (could be a long while) I would be interest to have the opinions of anyone who may have used the product, particularly anybody who has had it in place for a couple of years or so. I would also appreciate if someone could advise roughly how much leather recovering would cost. Thanks Peter | ||
| William H. Trovinger II New User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 3 Registered: 8-2003 |
Peter; Sorry, I can not tell you anything about this product. I would assume it is some sort of dye at least in part? If this is the case I would advise against doing it to leather, unless you are certain of your time table to replace the interior. I have done several other cars (none RR/Bs) over the years that have had some leather and some vinyl in them. Do to lack of replacement parts in matching colors I have been forced to use dye. On vinyl it works OK and will hold up almost as long as original depending on the amount of sun it gets. However, on leather, I have found that it is less able to hold up. You would think that due to the porous nature of leather it would accept the dye better. I have been told that this is not so do to the treatments that most leathers get in the tanning process. Depending on color (darker the better) and use, dye will hide the small cracks and wear areas for a few years. So if you are certain that you are going to replace the interior in that length of time what can it hurt. Remember though dying takes as much skill and patience as spray painting if not a little more. On the cost of re-doing the interior of a Shadow. Mine was done by the owner before me and he spent over 15K U$ without the wood. But, this did included the carpeting, door panels, dash, console and everything else. The wood added a few thousand more to the total. | ||
| pat freeman Yet to post message Username: pat_freeman Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2003 |
I am in the process of having the seat cushions on our T2 rebuilt professionally. The front leather is ok except for the piece below the piping on each front seat. This is being replaced and the cushions are being replaced. The worst problem I am having is finding a color match for the lower pieces. As you are probably aware Connoly is no longer in business, and other firms use other tints. My seats are cherry red (3084). We have selected a Scottish vendor. The price to replace the bottom leather on the two front seats,and recushion the front and rear seats (the back leather is fine) is $700 US. | ||
| Graeme Söderlund Experienced User Username: graemeaus Post Number: 10 Registered: 6-2003 |
I rather gather that the previous postings are from the US (?). In Australia, the leather in most cars suffers greatly due to the sun. However, most leatherwork can be rejuvenated by using Connelly's Leather dressing, which may or may not be available. A good alternative is to go along to any reputable Saddlery shop and talk to the people about Leather Dressing. I recently bought an excellent German product to treat the leatherwork in the Shadow (it had dried and was starting to show small cracks and marks). I took the advice of the people in the shop and on a bright sunny day, gave all the leatherwork a liberal dose of the dressing, closed the doors and left the car in the sun for a couple of hours. By the time I returned, all excess had been soaked up and the leather just required buffing! I am pleased with the result...the leather is now quite soft and supple again. I guess the product really did the trick, and suggest any similar product will do the job...but is best applied in warm weather when it will have a chance to soak in and do it's work. I applied the product with a soft bristle brush and finished it off with soft cheesecloth. When I purchased the car, there were a couple of patches that were badly worn, and these were replaced by a furniture upholsterer who had some hides already coloured. These were a different shade to the interior of the car but he stripped the colour and applied the same colour that was on the car, then unstiched the olde sections and replaced. I defy anyone to tell the difference. My point being that if you can find a genuine old style upholsterer, you are better served than using a modern style motor trimmer. Graeme. | ||
| Bill Vatter Unregistered guest Posted From: 67.35.52.80 |
I have used Leatherique. This product has limitations. The instructions I received were vague and a phone call to the business did not help much. The Leatherique process is essentially a two-step process: 1. Recondition, and if needed repair. 2. Dye. I think the Leatherique reconditioning process with their product "Rejuvinator Oil" is as good as any. They will tell you to use the rejuvinator oil sparingly. This is because if put on too heavily, they dye will not adhere. However, If you just soak the leather with rejuvinator oil and not apply the dye, this will greatly help the leather to soften up and regain some of its lost strength. Laquer thinner wiped over the surface after a heavy application of oil has set for quite awhile will help clear the surface to allow dye adhesion. The dye reminds me of latex paint. It does not soak in much. After application you need to let it cure for as long as possible. Leatherique will tell you 48 hours, but I think longer (2 weeks) is helpful in adding strengh. Once you have dyed your seats with Leatherique, they will look dyed forevermore. Is that what you want? Personal opinion, leather with a worn look to the surface but otherwise soft and strong is true patina. Looks appropriately old but in well maintained condition. Dye looks like a patch job done by/for someone who couldn't afford new seat covers. Whatever you do, get some conditioner on the leather NOW. Leatherique, or Connely's Hyde Food will help for sure. They don't call it Hyde Food anymore because some people were trying to eat it. People. It is still out there under another name. Regarding other conditioners: Some have silicone in them. Silicone is poison for leather. Never never never use a silicone product on leather. Check the label carefully and ask what's in it. | ||
| William H. Trovinger II New User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 4 Registered: 8-2003 |
I agree with Bill Vatter that you should never use dye for "spot treatments". If you are going to dye the seats dye every square inch, after removing seats from the car. However, as someone who has used dyes I would not use a leather treatment on the hides first. Instead I would give them a good cleaning with either RR's leather cleaner or a top saddle soap. Give it a good week to cure then use a professional dye. I do not know if SEM products are available to you but they make a good line and can be custom blended to match what ever. Other wise check with tannery in your area for whose product they would recommend or as Graeme suggested a Saddlery shop maybe able to help. Remember, a good dye should penetrate the leather not sit on the surface, so it is normally a very thin liquid and should not resemble latex paint. What Bill described sounds more like a color coat that would work on polymer surfaces where penetration is not possible and flexibility is required. When spraying the dye on you only want a very very thin dusting for each coat. After seats are dyed let them sit for a good week or more in a dry warm place. Then I would take Graeme suggestion on applying the leather treatment, Lexon is one made here in the States that is equal to the RR product. | ||
| Robin Hickman Yet to post message Username: rhickman Post Number: 4 Registered: 2-2003 |
To get advice on rejuvenating leather, before seeking advice from a saddlery shop, it is worth speaking to the actual local agents/distributors of Connolley Leather. Here in Melbourne Australia, the local Connolly agent is Leffler Leather in South Melbourne, who are the major suppliers, to the trade, of Connolly and other leather hides, and complementary leather trade products, and have a range of original dyes & lacquers, as well as repair, refurbishing & recolouring products. If you are lucky, you may also be able to extract some advice from them on the use of these products. | ||
| Graeme Söderlund Frequent User Username: graemeaus Post Number: 11 Registered: 6-2003 |
All excellent advice. Your first step must be to clean and condition the existing leather. Nothing looks as nice as well worn, but worn well leather. It has a luxury all its own. A good saddle soap (from Saddlery Shops) some elbow grease and lots of patience will restore the supple qualities of the existing leather, then if necessary you can worry about the colour treatment. I am not infavour of any form of colouring that looks like a coated finish. My suggestion is to discuss this matter with a Tanner in your area...there will have to be one, and his advice would be best. I recall many years ago seeking out a Tanner when I was about to have the seats re-upholstered in my original car. I didn't like the look of hides that seemed to have a latex coating on them, and with his advice, I settled on natural leather that had been treated with an analine dye. The result was a deeper rich coloured brown that didn't have the appearance of paint. There are many rich dyes that can be used, but if the leather is already "painted" finish, you will not be able to use them. So, best advice? Clean with sadle soap, talk with a Tanner and proceed with all haste to restore the existing leather to its soft supple state. Regards, Graeme. | ||
| PETER DIXON New User Username: petenlinid Post Number: 2 Registered: 8-2003 |
 Many thanks to you all. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Robin, I tried Lefflers by phone. I have to say I found them substantially lacking in any desire to provide service or advice so gave them away as a bad job. Cheers Peter | ||
| Jim Bettison Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.166.107.243 |
For information: I understand that Connolly's are no more. The firm was put into receivership and wound up around 1 or 2 years ago. I have heard that one of the family has acquired the rights to make and sell such items as Hide Food; does anyone have more or better knowledge? I understand that the presently preferred supplier is a Scottish firm, Bridge of Weir. I'm still seeking info. | ||
| PETER DIXON New User Username: petenlinid Post Number: 5 Registered: 8-2003 |
Can someone please tell me which bits of the interior upholsery/trim in a 1980 Shadow are not leather i.e. rear parcel shelf front dash etc. Thanks. Peter | ||
| William H. Trovinger II Experienced User Username: bill_trovinger Post Number: 6 Registered: 8-2003 |
Peter; Do not know on a '80 SS II. On my '76 SS everything is leather other than the wood (this I know varies based on options ordered), carpeting (floors and bottom of door panels), headliner, rear parcel shelf. I would recommend looking for interior photos of your year car. If you are trying to ask if vinyl was used anywhere in the car rather than leather I have never heard of it. I have seen cars redone where people have replaced leather with vinyl but I have not heard of Crewe doing this. Hope this helps. | ||
| Bill Coburn Prolific User Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 37 Registered: 4-2003 |
Sorry but the dash roll has always been vynal as leather would last no time in that position. Similarly the black covering on the 'dash panels and knee roll is the same vynal. | ||
| denis Unregistered guest Posted From: 152.163.252.194 |
Hi everyone, In my 1980 SSII, the dash roll, door panels, knee roll are leather. When I got my car, I ordered a copy of the build sheets so I would know how my car arrived from the factory. The original owner ordered the dash covered in leather, along with the other mentioned areas. From what I have read, Crewe did use a material similar to vynal, I believe was called "amblion (sp)". I looked at a 77 SSII that had this for the headliner. A nygahyde knock off? |
