| Author | Message | ||
     Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 81 Registered: 2-2016 |
So, tonite I had by first FTP. I was out to dinner, in horrible traffic, and just as I was waiting for a park (after essentially idling/crawling for 20mins), she cut out. Got it started, and it cut out after a few seconds again. Luckily I was waiting for someone to leave a parking space, so I pushed it into the space and started poking around. No backfire, no splutter, just cut out. Engine happy to crank all night long, just not fire. Not even a cough. Fuel pumps are good, they were rebuilt 3 weeks ago, and sprayed fuel all over the floor when I disconnected the outlet hose. Coil is luke-warm to touch, nothing out of the ordinary. Waited 10 mins while I did some quick troubleshooting on the spot, and she started back up and revved cleanly, so I went off to dinner. 30min later, car started right up, and drove fine under various loads for about 10mins until it died again, this time at a 40mph cruise. Again, it started, but died within a 15 seconds. Suspecting ignition, I tried the old 'screwdriver in the coil lead', with no spark from the coil. Explains how it just died without dropping individual cylinders. The 30 min tow truck ride home cooled it enough to back it into the garage. For kicks, I just let it idle; and it lasted 20mins before shutting off. A few facts: - When it runs, it runs fine, from idle to high load. - The coil (likely original Lucas) is hot, but not burningly hot, and no hotter than the dizzy housing or any other engine bay part - The coil reads 2.5ohm resistance between the +/-, and 5000ohm between the + and HT. - With Ign ON/engine OFF, the coil is getting 12v. - The Opus module looks fine, with no visible cracks from looking at it (I haven't pulled the foam off). - Water temp and oil pressure (senders) are fine; the pressure light doesn't illuminate until the engine dies. It was serviced 3 weeks ago, where: - Plugs were replaced - HT leads were tested, 2 replaced - Tuned by oscilloscope and exhaust sniffer One other odd thing I noticed thought. About half the time when I crank it and it doesn't fire, turning the key from ON to OFF makes the engine kick lightly. Almost like there is a single spark triggered by turning the key to OFF. Where to from here? I think a new coil is in order anyway, but how to I check if it's 9v or 12v? Can the ballast resistor fail once hot? Same with the Opus unit? Or the coil? (all at once, not a weak spark?) | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1812 Registered: 6-2006 |
Ignition module. Wish the 1 kick as you turn the key off was at the beginning. sure fire tell take that the ignition module is switched to earth and not pulsing. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 82 Registered: 2-2016 |
"sure fire tell take that the ignition module is switched to earth and not pulsing Sorry Paul, not quite following you there. I'm assuming you're talking about the Opus module? Are there any simple multimeter/lamp tests I can run to confirm failure? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1702 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Jeff Brian had a similar fault on his car. Turned out to be the Opus unit. The thread is well worth reading through, although it does go off topic in parts. I can't get the link to work. The subject title of the thread is called "A Christmas FTP!!" Geoff | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 83 Registered: 2-2016 |
"The subject title of the thread is called "A Christmas FTP!!" Thanks Geoff, Funny; I acutally had a quick skim over of that thread when I was stuck waiting for the tow truck.  My FTP seems to be slightly different in that there were no backfires, and she starts up 'normally' just fine, choke dependent on temp as usual (no tricky throttle play required). So initially I'm thinking of replacing: - Ignition module - Coil - Dist. cap & rotor I know the leads and plugs are all good, so if that doesn't fix it, there's only really the ballast resistor left that might be temperature related, right? The ignition module, being a big(ger) dollar item, should last another few decades, so throwing money at that isn't AS bad when I think about it that way | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1336 Registered: 9-2004 |
IMO the start of the breakdown of the pickup module however worth a short term fix is the closing of the air gap between the "E" shaped core and the timing rotor, mine carried on working till the cold winter weather. Check gap should be about 0.020" but 0.018" will get you going hot or cold. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 84 Registered: 2-2016 |
Thanks Patrick, I will have a poke around tomorrow and report back on the rotor/sensor gap. Do these ignition modules have a history of heat related failure modes? I read somewhere of replacing the coil with a test light, then lining up a ferrite rod with the sensor and heating the lot with a hairdryer to see if there are any effects from heat. Worthwhile test in your opinion? | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 382 Registered: 10-2016 |
Jeff, if you're determined to throw parts at it, I'd begin with the coil because it's cheap, fits the facts, and it's old. If it were the cap and rotor I believe you'd have an engine subject to misfires instead of cutting out dead. And if it turns out to be the Opus, an inexpensive coil purchase only to discover it's the module is lunch money in the equation. -- John, who is interested in what you learn. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 85 Registered: 2-2016 |
John, you are correct in that the price of a new coil is a fraction of that of the module. It's also probably the only item that I can get locally tomorrow from the parts store, so I will report back after testing with a new coil. I also agree that a rotor/cap issue would lead to poor running rather than cutting out dead. There's something killing the spark from the coil when things get hot... Just gotta figure out what. Now, what 'type' of coil should I get? The +ve feed into the coil is 12v with ign ON, so I should get a 12v coil? Just a generic Bosch GT40R red coil? | ||
| Jim Walters Prolific User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 108 Registered: 1-2014 |
I agree with Paul, it is the Opus module. I have replaced dozens of them over the years, the symptom of kicking once when the key is turned off is the classic tell tale. Not to say your coil is likely poor too if it's the original. Paul previously posted the test light check on the coil terminals which you should review to check for firing signal from the Opus. Brian also previously posted a link to a site with instructions to repair the Opus module. Search function should find them quickly. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Patrick Francis Prolific User Username: jackpot Post Number: 115 Registered: 11-2016 |
Hi Jeff I have had a coil fail when it gets hot before - quite a common fault? If you have a ballast resistor, it means that you have a 9v coil that only works on 12v whilst cranking. If the ballast resistor is faulty the the engine will run whilst cranking only since the ballast resistor is bypassed whilst cranking. All this is true for a normal non electronic ignition. I have no idea how the Opus system works, or if it even has a ballast resistor as you suggest? Hope some of this helps.... | ||
| Martin Taylor Frequent User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 75 Registered: 7-2013 |
Don't waste your time on the coil, the opus transistor is getting stuck in the on position, the coil works by creating a spark when the magnetic field collapses or when it is turned off, hence your spark is being generated when you turn the ign off. With a few small modifications a modern electronic unit can be fitted, they are so cheap I carry a complete spare module in the battery compartment of the car although I doubt I will ever need it. The opus units were rubbish when they were made and gave Rover and Jaguar cars a bad name for failing so often. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1532 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Jeff. Have a read of this thread I started. Symptoms sound the same. It's pretty common in these cars. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/23452.html?1491048976 | ||
| Nick Adlam Frequent User Username: crewes_control Post Number: 100 Registered: 12-2015 |
Hi Jeff When the engine stops dead, confirm you're still getting 12V to the ballast resistor, if fitted, and the coil. From memory, even OPUS systems used a ballast?. When working on my Shadow, I found bad connections at the wiring connector blocks at the firewall. The ign circuit passes through the driver's side group, under the fan motor. These are sometimes disturbed when people change plugs, leads, etc- as yours has recently. Wishful thinking, I know, but it does sound like the dreaded module. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2291 Registered: 6-2009 |
Jeff, Just because you haven't experienced a backfire doesn't mean you mightn't if the conditions were right. I've just hopped on the forum for the first time in a couple of days and I instantly said, "He's got a failed/failing Lucas Opus ignition module!!" Mine is still in my garage and there is no obvious sign that anything is amiss. It's definitely at the electronics level. Even though you've read it, I'll still post the link to the thread, A Christmas FTP!! . . ., in case future readers are curious. Not that I did this, as I transplanted the distributor from my SWII into SRH33576, but have a look at, Repairing and Modifying the Lucas Opus Ignition 35DE8 Module, to see if it's of interest to you. And the Lucas Opus system definitely uses the 9BR ballast resistor block. See this diagram I made regarding the 9BR and its relationship to the other ignition system components. I have still never gone back to confirm wire colors on the incoming connector to the ballast resistor block. Brian | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 86 Registered: 2-2016 |
Thanks for all the advice and suggestions. Since I'm doing some yard work today, I'm idling the car (30mins now), hoping I can get it to die and not fire. I have test leads with a globe ready to tag onto the coil's + & - terminals; and if it then cranks and the light doesn't flash, the problem is BEFORE the coil, right? I've done the same test cold, and the globe flashes as the ferrite rods come into and out of the sensor's range. Is there a way to bench test the Opus unit? Could be difficult since the problem only presents when hot. I hate troubleshooting intermittent issues at home... better than getting stranded though... | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1703 Registered: 5-2012 |
I thought I'd add my thoughts on this, having been in a similar situation myself. Replace the lot. Less than 200 bucks will buy a new ignition module, a coil, leads, distributor cap and rotor arm. The Opus unit is nearly forty years old and should be replaced anyway. A new ignition module will drive a high output 12v coil and deliver 40kV to the spark plugs. How much better is that. You can also throw away the ballast resister - one less thing to go wrong in the future. This is so much better than buying a new 9v coil to test the Opus unit. If the Opus unit is faulty then the coil will have to be thrown out with it. In my view it is so much better to replace the lot rather than wasting time fault finding a system that is so old it should be replaced anyway. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 87 Registered: 2-2016 |
The plot thickens... So the last thing I did last night was to pull out the Opus module to inspect for obvious damage. Not finding any, I just put it back together. Today, trying to replicate the fault (in order): - Idle for 60mins (in garage, to get it hot) - The drive for 60min (30 miles) varying load and speed - 10min break - Drive another 15miles on 60mph freeway back home Not once did the car falter. Could removing and refitting the Opus module have tightened an intermittent loose connection? Ignition faults never fix themselves... I'm thinking to replace the lot as per Geoff's suggestion, since the parts are over 40yrs old. Then drive the crap out of it and see what happens. | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 424 Registered: 11-2015 |
Just to be clear, the coil basically sees 9v all the time. The oem starter on a shadow drops the system to 8v on cranking. Then when running the ballast resistor keeps the coil at 9v. A 12v coil might actually throw a weaker spark as it would see 9v on start as well. Also, I would be cautious with high voltage coils with the HT leads running parallel, touching, and probably overdue for replacement. Crossfire won't make a car FTP, but that's better than fire in the intake. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1340 Registered: 9-2004 |
"Could removing and refitting the Opus module have tightened an intermittent loose connection? Ignition faults never fix themselves..." Yes IMO, most common for this to happen is a dry joint or item breakdown in the pickup module assembly. also the air gap between the timing rotor assembly and pickup may have been closed causing a short term cure. I am not great one for just replacing this and that and not knowing what the fault really was. Like to get to the real problem!  | ||
| Nick Adlam Prolific User Username: crewes_control Post Number: 101 Registered: 12-2015 |
Hi Jeff Bummer, sounds like you might've inadvertently disturbed the fault and it's now "behaving"....until next time. If you're getting power to the ballast and coil when the engine dies, then I'm with Geoff W on this one- replace the lot, or go Pertronix/equivalent. Keep the old module/ballast in the boot as a spare. Pertronix will allow you to ditch the factory ballast- another Lucas bugbear. Nothing worse than cruising in your pride and joy while dreading another FTP, especially in the Aussie countryside. I replaced the entire system on my points-ign Shadow which gives real peace of mind. As an ex auto-elec, I found that if a module has suffered any form of poor connection, bad earth, open circuit, arcing, etc- it's days were usually numbered. Electronic components might still function at the surface, but can be critically damaged internally- especially transistors. Much like ESD with computers- sure it might boot up afterwards, but 2 months later.... | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2292 Registered: 6-2009 |
I, also, am not a "lets throw parts at it" sort of solver, but the sort of behavior described has been consistent enough over a period of years to serve as a pretty good diagnostic sign itself once other possibilities have been examined. I take it as an additional reinforcement of this that Paul Yorke, who's probably worked on more of these cars himself than any of us will work on collectively, instantly went to "ignition module" with no hesitation. This failure mode, starting out inconsistent sometimes but eventually becoming either consistent after driving or permanent in that the car won't even start, is now pretty well documented. On my own cars my intention is to leave the transplanted Lucas distributor in SRH33576 and to fit a replacement Mallory optical distributor that was made for the Rolls-Royce application (and is now no longer made) in LRK37110. I still have the old distributor from SRH33576 and if any future custodian wants to fit a new electronic ignition in it and transfer the drive coupling back to it from the Mallory they can easily do so. I'll live with the bright red distributor cap and superior modern technology. Brian | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 57 Registered: 10-2009 |
Slightly relevant to this thread, here's a hint from experience elsewhere. "If a component will not function OK at 100 degrees C it is no use in a car engine compartment." So for items like spark coils and (particularly Citroen CX) magnetic pick-up sensors, if they go open circuit when put into boiling water they are no use. Same with condensers, but you need a capacity meter. With a bit of imagination the idea can be applied to other things. Alan D. | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 58 Registered: 10-2009 |
Perhaps I should have said in my previous post that the method of use is to connect a resistance meter across the terminals and watch the reading as the item comes up to the boil. Coils take a minute or two for the heat to soak through. If it goes infinite or varies by more than a few percent, bin it. (Anyone, what's the percentage variation for copper between room temp and 100 degrees?) Alan D. - again | ||
| Nick Adlam Prolific User Username: crewes_control Post Number: 102 Registered: 12-2015 |
Hi Jeff Just wondering how you went with this issue?. I absolutely agree on the wastage that happens with the "throw parts at it" mentality, but I'll admit to being OCD with the ign system. Breakdowns on Aussie country roads aren't fun. I replaced my Shadow's entire ign system, even the relay. I turn the key, it starts. | ||
| Graham Griffiths Unregistered guest Posted From: 146.90.162.30 |
Almost certainly the opus pickup module is faulty. Typically you hear one click/spark from the distributor when turning the ignition key off. To prove attach a spark plug to the centre distributor lead and you should see a single spark. Suggest removing the pickup module take out the earthing bolt give the solder tag a clean refit and ensure it really tight. I had this problem so produced a web site showing how to repair and test opus 35DE8 module. Repairing and Modifying the ignition pick-up module http://www.gbg.talktalk.net/ Hope this helps! Graham (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2299 Registered: 6-2009 |
Graham, Great to see "the horse's mouth" drop in here!! I referenced your work back on May 13th, having saved the content of your Lucas 35DE8 repair to a PDF file in case of disappearance from the web (which has happened). Yours has been the only source of this information that I've ever seen and it's beautifully presented. Thanks much for having taken the time to document this repair as you have. Brian | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 88 Registered: 2-2016 |
Thank you everyone for your insights and experience. The repeated concensus that the single spark when turning the key to OFF being a sign of Opus failure gives me confidence in fixing the problem. I have since ordered a reconditioned Opus module, coil, rotor and cap from Flying Spares and the old bits are already out of the car waiting for the new parts. On a side note, does anyone know what that 'extra' lead on the Opus module is? (The one with the rubber boot at the end). I thought mine may have been butchered, but all the pics I find have the same 'dead' lead. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1813 Registered: 6-2006 |
A rong connector and boot to go on a condensor bolted to the distributor. A mod that came out on later cars. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1431 Registered: 5-2015 |
I shall just nip into the garage and clean my points | ||
| Graham Griffiths 2 Unregistered guest Posted From: 37.152.203.87 |
The rubber boot, if it has two red/black wires inside would have covered a suppressor capacitor to prevent radio interference and be bolted to the side of the distributor. Some modules had this others did not - is doesn't seem to make any difference! (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1435 Registered: 5-2015 |
modern radios are far better internally suppressed than the original equipment. my radio works fine on a bit of copper brake pipe and plastic insulated p clips, fitted under the car. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 90 Registered: 2-2016 |
So my parts from Flying Spares came in today, and were fitted in about 45min after a quick bench test. The old Lucas branded rotor and cap showed some pretty nasty pitting at the contacts, and the centre button was no long round at the tip; but worn flat. The new ignition module looked good, with the only sign of it being reconditioned (rather than brand new) was the discoloration/yellowing of the plastic housing on the magnetic pickup. The wiring, terminals and solder all looked brand new, as did the PCB. I took the car for a run into town for dinner; and to be honest; it ran fine, but no different from before, which I guess is a good sign in itself that not much else was wrong in the first place (fingers crossed).  | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2318 Registered: 6-2009 |
Note to those who may be doing what Jeff did in the future: Please photo document the parts that you receive both top side and underside. At some point I'd love to try overhauling my Lucas distributor based on the guide from Mr. Griffiths but it would also be interesting to see what one shipped out from Flying Spares looks like and to have that on record. Brian | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1443 Registered: 5-2015 |
I guess as electronic systems age they fail eventually. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 91 Registered: 2-2016 |
Since Brian mentioned documenting parts, here are some pics I snapped of the new (and old) bits. New/reconditioned from Flying Spares (left) vs old Lucas module. All the wiring, components, terminals and PCB were clearly new. All solder joints looked new as expected. The only signs of it not being a NOS unit is the discoloration on the plastic pickup housing. There were no reused components, and if you cover up the pickup housing and it could pass as new.   Here are some of the close up solder joints on my old unit. I'm not surprised it caused issues in the end.   N.B. if the 640x480 forum sizing makes the details tricky to make out, I've been keeping similar updates of my Shadow ownership on another forum, with bigger images, if anyone is interested. A lot more general than this forum though. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?8402705-An-average-guy-s-76-Rolls-Royce-ownership-experience-thread On a brighter note; the Minister of War & Finance, her folks and I went for a nice cruise a few towns over today. Aside from a longer shakedown, it was a good chance to squeeze some last drives before the crappy weather, and take in the pretty autumn colors. 60 smooth freeway miles today, and I think I can say with confidence that the old module was the cause of my issues, and would like to thank everyone here for sharing their wealth of knowledge for a quick diagnosis and solution.  | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 353 Registered: 10-2010 |
It's surprising they didn't clean the flux off those solder joints, but I'd still bet the culprit is that big transistor having seen one too many temperature cycles. Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 92 Registered: 2-2016 |
Jeff, You are most likely correct about the transistor heat cycling. Electronics are not my strong point, so I just jump to conclusions based on what I can see in front of me. I can trace wiring diagrams, but anything resembling to a chip/transistor may as well be voodoo magic to me. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2319 Registered: 6-2009 |
Now the question is what did they use to replace that transistor. The new cases look extremely similar, so if you can't see the markings (and I think they're face down) it's hard to know what it is. I'll have to look at what's on my Lucas unit and see what it cross-references to. Thanks Mr. Cheng! Brian | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 59 Registered: 10-2009 |
Brian, the markings are not face-down - the other side is a metal heat-sink face. The markings are on the black face but either very dim (not unusual) or deliberately obliterated (also not unusual). It could be any one of scores of suitable components costing a few shillings. Alan D. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1369 Registered: 9-2004 |
John this is some numbers of the different units The pixs are of the clapped 50 year old unit unless it has been replaced in the past. Hope they help you with your quest.   Paint removed  The first letter is a W.    The printed circut seems ok the flux was still in place but no failing on the joints.  | ||
| Jeff Cheng Frequent User Username: makeshift Post Number: 93 Registered: 2-2016 |
Brian, Here are some close-ups of my new/recon'd and old units if it helps. They are zoomed in from my original photos. The new unit, there is no writing on the top of the square black chip.  Notice the big round thing (at 6 o'clock on the new pic and 12 on the old) is 'filled' on the new unit, but a blank hole on the old unit. Comparing the hand engraving on my old unit below, combined with the non-Lucas branded transistor could indicate it had also been a replacement at some point...?  More on the reconditioned unit from Flying Spares; the only visual faults I could find were the discolored pickup housing (I guess it's just plastic) and the 'messy' application of the white insulation material, clearly hand molded and applied, with fingerprints in it. It's texture is similar to a stiff caulk/silicone. Everything else I could find looked to be new. I removed the large circlip to make sure the pickup 'slider' for the vacuum retard was adequately lubricated, and found they had used a new spring/wave washer and fresh copper grease. The entire unit was clean of oil/grease residue, as if it were new. Visually, I'm quite pleased with the Flying Spares unit, but at £300 before exchange, I would expect to be. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2320 Registered: 6-2009 |
I'll have to take photos and post of mine when I get a chance. The BU931Z transistor is dirt common, and that bit helps a lot. This is almost certainly what is in the contemporary "black blade" case. Brian | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1370 Registered: 9-2004 |
Brian and this one for the transistor listed in my old unit. "Details, datasheet, quote on part number: Part number BU323A Category Discrete => Transistors => Bipolar => Darlington Description NPN Silicon Power Darlington Transistor Company Motorola Semiconductor Products" | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1371 Registered: 9-2004 |
Next is the Lucas 83447----646mov or has the pick up module been up dated???????????????? | ||
| Graham Griffiths Yet to post message Username: cineprojectorman Post Number: 1 Registered: 5-2017 |
The Lucas 83447 is a press fit negative package protection diode - see attached diagram. The nearest match I can find is a S2404N or Delco 1958826 or D3916 The later 5EM module did not require the diode as it is contained within the large transistor. Hence the hole! The protection diode routes any reverse voltage around the transistor, thereby protecting it. When I refurbished my module I disconnected the diode and used a BU941ZP Darlington transistor http://www.gbg.talktalk.net Graham  | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 731 Registered: 5-2009 |
Replaced mine with a Pertronix. Simple as pie and knowing the Lucas was probably original (1977) made me decide it was timely to replace it, throwing parts at it or preventative maintenance? I did keep the old module and associated parts, though. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1377 Registered: 9-2004 |
Graham, many thanks for the info. I have also kept my car original on the Opus system when the unit packed up a few years ago. I will repair my old unit and keep as a spare in the car. IMO problems arrive for the owners further down the line in years to come when the non original units break down, folk won't know what's what. | ||
| Graham Griffiths New User Username: cineprojectorman Post Number: 7 Registered: 5-2017 |
Hi, thought I should inform the forum that my website "Repairing and Modifying the Lucas Opus Ignition 35DE8" http://www.gbg.talktalk.net/ will no longer be accessible with the present host after 16 July 2018. Until then you will be redirected to my new host. The site is now available here http://35de8ignitionrepair.eu5.net Thanks Graham | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1935 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Graham Thanks for putting up this website - very useful to series 2 owners. However, when I try to access it I get the warning message (below) as I use McAfee webadvisor. It might be worth your looking into why your website is flagging a potential hazard to McAfee, as this warning message will put a lot of people off looking at your web pages.  | ||
| Graham Griffiths New User Username: cineprojectorman Post Number: 8 Registered: 5-2017 |
Hi Geoff I think mcafee flags this because you are being redirected to my new site using a different host. As www.gbg.talktalk.net is closing down 16 July 2018 I suggest updating your favourites/bookmarks to http://35de8ignitionrepair.eu5.net/index.html and there won't be a problem. Whether Google search lists the new web address is another problem LOL! Thanks Graham | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2868 Registered: 4-2003 |
No problems with computers using Microsoft Defender. Google Search gives your new website as the first listing. | ||
| Graham Griffiths New User Username: cineprojectorman Post Number: 10 Registered: 5-2017 |
I thought members may be interested in the latest addition to my wesite - "Testing and fault finding the RR/Bentley cruise control" http://35de8ignitionrepair.eu5.net/rolls-royce-silver-spirit-repairs-and-fixes.html#Cruise Regards Graham | ||
| h_kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 274 Registered: 3-2012 |
Hi, I purchased a new electronic ignition from flying spares approximately a year ago. The car is now acting up, today for instance it drove fine but when putting it into garage it appears to be running rough with poor acceleration(it has been in running rough for about a month now). Has anyone any ideas on how to test an electronic ignition. P's new coil, rotor arm dis cap etc . Thanks in advance Hk | ||
| h_kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 275 Registered: 3-2012 |
Thinks it's sorted thankfully. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2807 Registered: 6-2009 |
Might I ask how it got sorted? That's what is of potential use when someone else encounters similar symptoms and is trying to figure out the courses of action that might work. Brian | ||
| h_kelly Prolific User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 276 Registered: 3-2012 |
Hi Brian, I took both dash pots of the carbs and cleaned the carbon of both, I reckon the carbon caused the piston to stick thus leaving only one side (carb) to work giving the impression/symptom of reduced power/acceleration . P's thanks Brian for all your knowledge / experience you have given this forum... | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 827 Registered: 5-2009 |
As for my 1977 Wraith II, the ultimate cause turned out to be the fuel pump. The Pertronix didn’t hurt, though. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2808 Registered: 6-2009 |
Randy, So, did you go with another Pierburg or, if not, what did you end up replacing it with? Brian | ||
| johnR Unregistered guest Posted From: 121.222.237.214 |
WRT Graham Griffiths information on ignition faults I am very grateful for your technical help as I have exactly the same problem, IE no start but kick astern as I turn of the switch. Testing with spark plug confirms this. Inspection of the unit shows no apparent faults except the earth bolt was not very tight. This may be it, however I wish to change BU931Z and have found the same as you that it is unobtainable, apart from some dodgy outlets somewhere in Asia. Instead have purchased the Darlington pair as advised and intend to fit that.Where I am stumped is that I cannot determine from your excellent article where it is exactly that I have to disconnect the wire to D2. Could you please advise? (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 642 Registered: 11-2017 |
Drop the original bits, I went Pertronix and it is far more reliable. BTW there are 3 case sizes for the power transistor. The original TO3 case version is hard to find. Many are listed from Chins and junk, the epoxy case comes in 2 sizes also, one of which does not line up physically and a new mounting hole has to be drilled. Again, dump the whole circuit and go Pertronix | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 687 Registered: 07-2015 |
I agree with Robert, electronics have come a long way in 40+ years. Mike | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1478 Registered: 11-2015 |
The Shadow started missing on acceleration the other day. I was 25 miles from home on a 50 mile trip so I stopped at a friend's house and popped the cap. No gap, well almost no gap and build up on the fixed face of the points. I filed them with the file on my leatherman tool the adjusted them to a .015 ish gap using 4 sheets of paper (good paper) and the external point adjustment bolt. Runs like a top. I might put the dwell meter on it later if I get time. | ||
| Randy Roberson Frequent User Username: wascator Post Number: 837 Registered: 05-2009 |
Ross, my ‘70 Shadow had that exact problem when I bought it. Put the dwell meter on it and said Wow; engine smoothed out as I added gap and has run great ever since. Soooo simple yet so important! | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2224 Registered: 05-2012 |
The only problem Harry Metcalfe had when he drove his Shadow to the Arctic Circle was caused by the points gap closing. Not bad for a 45 year old car, covering 3000 miles in harsh conditions. The great thing about points is they give you get plenty of warning that there's an imminent problem. For anyone who has not yet watched his superb youtube video, it's here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIdNcbsgOiM | ||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1481 Registered: 11-2015 |
Readjusted the dwell today to 29 degrees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzBe87Ey0x8 I was way off with my gapping with a dwell of 24, but considering I had nothing to work with, just getting the points filed and "set" enough to get me home was enough for me. Good thing I checked. |
