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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 401
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Saturday, 03 September, 2022 - 15:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Did a search and could not find the thread, but it could have been in another forum.
There was a product that was used to keep them from leaking in the "OFF" position; I'm sure someone here know what that was.
I've always have had bad luck with these drain taps.
This is the small one down low that drains the heater core.
If I knew what the threads were, I would just put a plug in it, and put a modern in-line tap closer to the heater core.
The threads are very fine; maybe some sort of British Standard Parallel Pipe Thread ???


EDIT:
I found the thread;
http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/16999/37954.html

The stuff is called Hylomar
I'll check to see if there is a similar product here in Canada.
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ChristopherCarnley
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 217.44.224.36
Posted on Saturday, 03 September, 2022 - 19:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The threads of RE5747 are 20 t.p.i, Whitworth Form, I had to overhaul one for the R Type engine rebuild that I did early this year.

Both Hylomar (Universal Blue Sealant) and Wellseal were invented by R-R chemists. Hylomar is non-setting and rather more fibrous than Wellseal.

I trust that you are using SAE EP 80/89 gear oil in your newly rebuilt gearbox.

You report that the snap ring of the rear main bearing was not located in position.

In one of my posts I stated that one of the reasons that the 4th speed synchro liner becomes abraded is due to the breakage of the snap ring, particularly with the early round shouldered bearings, allowing the whole 3rd Motion (main) shaft moving forward, as there is nothing then to restrain it.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jeff Martin
Frequent User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 408
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Monday, 19 September, 2022 - 06:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks, odd that I didn't see this thread as marked "NEW".
I did get it stop leaking, after tapping on it to "wedge" into itself.
Now I just have to deal with the leaking one on the rad.

I don't if I was talking about the snap ring in the trans, everything was healthy in there.
I think I was talking about the snap ring in the UV joint that comes off the back of the trans.
It would cause one of the yolks to drive off centre.

I'm using this Red Line product as Jim Walters recommended it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Line-57904-75W90-Synthetic-Gear/dp/B000CPCBF0/ref=asc_df_B000CPCBF0/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292962948152&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=485572132305455833&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001914&hvtargid=pla-434838761199&psc=1

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