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Post Number: 1
|Posted on Tuesday, 10 December, 2019 - 00:13: |
I am hoping you might be able to give me some advice on the sunroof of my 1954 R Type Radford Countryman (B268WH)
The sunroof operates as it should other than the rear not being flush with the main roof when closed (photo attached).
When I turn the handle, it lifts the rear edge, but not quite enough. I am not sure if it is the mechanism, or whether the roof is not far forward enough.
I have read the technical documents and another thread which will help in taking the roof panel out, but I wondered if anyone has any tips on what I should be looking for and what adjustments can be made?
Post Number: 12
|Posted on Tuesday, 10 December, 2019 - 05:01: |
The roof has to come out and it's a two person job, taping poster board paper to the body/paint at the front is recommended to minimize damage to those areas when the roof is lifted out.
Have a place ready with blankets to set the roof on upside down.
When it's removed you will see two metal tangs that are activated when the handle is moved back and forth. The mechanism that moves the metal tangs is worn and very often the tangs themselves are worn somewhat as well as the body of the car where the tangs work against.
On mine I added the appropriate thickness of shim(s) to the body so when the tangs come down, the shims add extra height to make the sunroof flush.
Using industrial acrylic tape will hold the shims in place, but the surfaces have to be clean and flat for the tape to stick.
If I recall I think I used sheet metal screws on mine, but I can't be sure, it's been 20 years since a restored my interior.
When the roof is off, the door skin where the broad cloth is glued to can be removed to gain access to the mechanism.
I used a spray grease to get in there to lubricate things.
Care must be taken not to use too much and any excess must be removed to prevent bleed through into the cloth.
When removing the board/head liner from the sun roof, take care so you don't tear the clips out of the wood door skin, they're just crimped in there.
A putty knife and a staple remover that is used for upholstery can be used for this job.
The putty knife is slipped in there for the staple remover to work up against.
This prevents the clips from being torn out of the door skin material.
Post Number: 2
|Posted on Thursday, 12 December, 2019 - 06:56: |
Thank you for that thorough explanation Jeff. It doesn't sound too bad. I am hoping to attempt the job in the next few weeks.
It will be good to reduce the wind noise!
Posted From: 188.8.131.52
|Posted on Friday, 13 December, 2019 - 20:28: |
A few points to add to Jeff’s description.
During the course of removing the roof I would suggest that you examine the rear centre section to check that the guide vane has been positioned into the roof central box section. Often these guides, which are rather like a long heavy tyre lever have not been entered correctly into the roof section.
As the roof is being removed, try to see how strong the rear seal is pushing down on the rear of the roof. The seal makes only light contact as it is raised, if this seal is making heavy contact it will hold down the rear roof section and cause heavy strain on the operating linkage.
The seal was fitted to prevent air pressure inflating the head lining and the sliding roof was NOT intended to be opened when the car was travelling. Many owners have ignored this last remark only to find blown out roof panels make a mess of the rest of the car and replacement panels are almost none existent.
Jeff has suggested shimming the assembly fixtures to obtain a “full lift” from the mechanism. However, I seem to remember that it is possible to slide plastic tube directly onto the lifting tangs to achieve the same result. It is a while since I examined one of these roof mechanisms, but I think you can use this plastic tube method without needing to strip the roof hatch panel. Memory is also telling me that it is possible to bond S/S or brass strip directly to the body aperture. (Maybe memory has failed!)
I think the roof panel and mechanism on your car is standard, so all the advice so far offered should be workable. I know this was the first R Type that Radford modified at the rear and I seem to remember that no strengthening was done around the sun roof slides or I would have noted it when I last examined that car.
(Message approved by david_gore)