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Jonas TRACHSEL
Experienced User
Username: jonas_trachsel

Post Number: 22
Registered: 2-2005
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 15:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My first try to start this thread somehow failed, so I will try again.
If you find the car of your dreams but dislike its colour you most probably will repaint it an other colour. This has been done since there are cars and will be done in the future too.
I dislike radical colour changes, as a yellow door jamb on an otherwise blue car offends me. You would have to strip the car of all chrome, badges, glass, interior etc to get a halfway decent repaint. Even then you will find traces of the old colour in the engine room and the like. I never would change say a primrose to dark blue, or pink to green or light blue to black. I would stay with a colour close to the original, but less offending, say pink to a more conventional red, gray to metallic silver, light blue to a darker shade, or primrose to champagne. In this way a part that has not been repainted would be less striking.
What do others think about this?
Jonas
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Neville Davies
New User
Username: nev_davies

Post Number: 9
Registered: 9-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 16:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jonas,To change the colour would be my last resort unless it was realistic to remove all mechanicals as well.I did have a Humber Sceptre 2 changed from silver grey to pewter which was reasonable the under bonnet didn't show too much.But an 'e'type that was changed from red to white certainly wasn't,the under bonnet was a disaster and because the paint was cellulose and not properly sealed the car took on a rosy hue some months later.Colour changers beware.
Nev
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James Feller
Experienced User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 25
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 17:11:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear all,

At the risk of starting a war of words again....a tread carefully...
Jonas, you are correct I believe in that respraying one of our cars a different colour from orginal, is a big job and one I would certainly NOT have done at a 'one day auto spray' kind of place. My frank opinion is that if the paint work is fine and the car is good and what your after, then leave it as it is. Otherwise keep looking for the colour you like?
If however you want to change the colour on a good car it can be a very expensive and labourious exercise I suspect.
The $3500 spray job Lawrence was getting sounds excellent value so long as it is done well. The end result and standard of finish will be of interest. Going from primrose to dark blue as I believe Lawrence was, a lot of work will be needed to make sure door jams, panel crevices and dress panels are done well. As I said before, and Bill pointed out, I would have thought 20K would be a round starting point, Bill confimed he had his Spur done for $35K at one of the best shops in Sydney.
I would confir with Neville, that it would in my opinion, be a last resort. However if Lawrence is delighted with the job and the end result, then all this discussion is circumstancial and individual conjecture.

J
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James Feller
Experienced User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 26
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 17:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

ahh I forgot to meantion,

I had a lovely little 77 Triumph Stag many years ago and the previous owner had it resprayed Jaguar BRG. The orginal Triumph dark green, I think it was called Jade green but not sure, it was close to Jag BRG but not quite as dark. It was a pretty good job and only the inner engine bay and front inner panel wings were not the darker BRG from memory. I liked it much more than the original colour and with the tan interior and teak wood trim, it was quite a striking and good looking little car. The R&M though was never ending....
Yep, I have a Rolls and its hard to say Stag R&M was never ending without most people raising an eyebrow and finger to check my pulse.... but the Rolls is a far more reliable car from my exprience.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 1424
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 19:19:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Generally, I could not agree more with Jonas.

Particularly, there is a temptation to try to overimpress and to undertake a radical colour change. A little pause for consideration pays off and will reward. Live with the colour and you may grow to love it.

All cars are not equal. Some lend themselves to colour changes, and some not.

One lucky thing with SY and SZ cars is that they are generally black where you cannot see them, particularly underbonnet. That means that a quality colour change can be achieved without removing too many mechanical components. Past the door jams and their trims, even the interior undercolour is black, so removing and paring back the trim usually exposes all the original colour needing a disguise in those cars. Earlier SZs even have black sills (“did you get bogged in a coal tailings pond ?”), although most are colour-keyed by now. As with any repaint on these cars, colour change or not, all windows, doors, bonnet, boot, badges, brightwork and fittings must be removed even for a half-decent job, so unlike earlier Crewe cars, it is basically achievable even if a last resort.

An example is a friend’s Turbo R. It seems mechanically retrievable, even being a UK-delivered car sent to Japan for a stint around 1997 before landing recently in Perth and sent immediately to Canberra. As a result, it is of course tired, but with major engine work, the inevitable steering rack and suspension work, and a new transmission already completed in Canberra, it is showing promise. Only after we sort it out mechanically with a bit of mileage to prove itself, will a proper refinish be considered otherwise it will be scrapped. In the meantime, although minor, the rust repairs will be strictly bog-and-patch in the unfortunate original Cotswold Beige colour just to get it mobile, but a colour change is inevitable with a colour like that. When my dad bought a new car in 1994 almost that colour by choice, the BMW Cashmere Beige, we almost died but never told him so: each to his own taste. Thank goodness that car is long gone. The Turbo R I mention will end up in a very deep blue if not scrapped. Thank goodness I like the Brooklands Green of my own Turbo R.

So for my two bob’s worth, a repaint is expensive and a colour change adds another dimension.

RT.
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James Feller
Experienced User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 27
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 19:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

ohh Richard,

I take exception.... you think Cotswold is horrible? Sure the name is pretty crook but...
Its not the best for a Turbo R, BRG or dark blue are the obvious better colours, I would agree there. But I have received compliments time and time again while out and about in my RR beauty in little old Cotsy... perhaps its a better colour for a Rolls....maybe?

However as you say, each to their own.

Cheers

J
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Martin Cutler
Frequent User
Username: martin_cutler

Post Number: 81
Registered: 7-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 19:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The Mk VI I bought last year came in 3 colours, silver, dark blue and rust. It is now Ivory. Under the bonnet did not change, but doors where removed, along with the front wings. All the rust cut out, and although I didn't go back to bare metal, I used a special undercoat to stop the old colour bleeding through. I am very happy with the job 12 months on. I did it myself in the back yard, with some help from a mate. Lots of blocking.... Pulling the car apart to paint took almost as long as the repairs. I didn't keep track of the time, but it was every weekend for 2 or 3 months. The materials came close to $2000 AUS, so to get a whole paint job for $3500 seems very good value. I took all the chrome off the car, and polished it all at the same time. Here is the finished article.Pheobe
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Martin Cutler
Frequent User
Username: martin_cutler

Post Number: 82
Registered: 7-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 20:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

And here is a few progress shots

Cheers

Marty
Phoebe repaint
Phoebe repaint
Phoebe repaint
Phoebe repaint
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Martin Cutler
Frequent User
Username: martin_cutler

Post Number: 83
Registered: 7-2007
Posted on Tuesday, 05 August, 2008 - 20:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

With the R Type I am currently working on, I will be going back to bare metal, as there are too many repairs to do, and there is too much paint on the car. By the looks of it, it was originally sand over sable, (dark brown), but 27 layers of paint later, what a horrible mess! Hours of fun! At least it is easier to strip than an alloy bodied car, alloy panels take heaps of work.

Marty
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Lawrence Heasman
Experienced User
Username: lheasman

Post Number: 18
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Sunday, 10 August, 2008 - 22:14:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Mmm, must admit I think I am starting to regret my decision. i'm sending it back to the paint shop so they can 'finish' the job, with strict instructions that I do not want to see any of the old colour, anywhere. I will wait and see.
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James Feller
Experienced User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 28
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Monday, 11 August, 2008 - 16:51:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ooohhh no, not good Lawrence, I was hoping to read you would be delighted....

I hope they deliver the job to your expectations and requirements. However I think it was a pretty universal assumption by most on the forum that $3500 to adequately respray your car to an expected standard was optimistic. As I told you I had my my roof redone for about $1500, which did not require the removal of any screens or trim pieces. It involved filling bloody egg shell damage and then one coat of the original colour plus a new clear coat from memory.
Yes I agree with you, I would be very dissappointed to see primrose in the door jams and appertures.... you are right to demand a good job as it now cannot be undone. Stay onto them and demand they do a proper job.

James
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Lawrence Heasman
Experienced User
Username: lheasman

Post Number: 22
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Sunday, 17 August, 2008 - 18:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Well here we are gents. The proof is in the pudding as they say. I finally have the car in my possession. It still needs work on the suspension as the ride is more like something you'll find at Luna Park at present, but at least I have clocked up a few k's already.
For a few pics please go to:

www.ryerollers.com.au/main/page_photo_gallery.html
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James Feller
Experienced User
Username: james_feller

Post Number: 37
Registered: 5-2008
Posted on Thursday, 18 September, 2008 - 20:42:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Looks great Lawrence,

Happy motoring in your new Blue Roller!

:o)

J
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Michel Malik
Yet to post message
Username: michel

Post Number: 1
Registered: 8-2008
Posted on Wednesday, 22 October, 2008 - 18:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As a new member and a new poster to this Esteemed Forum, I would like to put my two bobs' worth.

Changing colours on a car is definitely a personal thing and what appears pretty to some might seem hideous to others....

Each to his own.

However, on the technical side of changing the colour, I would like to point out that the only way to make it right is to paint inside the door jambs and hide all trace of the old colour.
I have done this many times and quite successfully.

I am not a panel beater/spray painter, but have 'played' with cars for the last 30 years.

(Message edited by michel on 22 October 2008)
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StevenBrown
Yet to post message
Username: stevenbrown

Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Thursday, 23 October, 2008 - 12:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Another new members 2 cents. I agree only way a full color change will work; taken to bare metal and every visible area changed as well (engine,etcetera). The personnel taste factor; I like two tone paint jobs on all era's of Royces. If it was myself, Id go two tone on some solid colors; alone some colors do make spirit/spurs look old and dated. Adding a two tone just adds class(ic) looks without dating the vehicle. Personnel prefference over changing the entire scheme.
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Michel Malik
New User
Username: michel

Post Number: 4
Registered: 8-2008
Posted on Thursday, 23 October, 2008 - 13:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

A comment on your post Steven, It is not necessary to go to bare metal if the paint underneath is healthy.
I also agree that two tones sometimes are beter than one colour.
But, as you said, it is a personnal preference
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StevenBrown
New User
Username: stevenbrown

Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Friday, 24 October, 2008 - 02:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michel, problem with older paints they have contaminants that are near impossible to remove without going to bare metal. Another personnel preference of wanting a durable show quality paint job. It's a lot of handwork, but this ensures against the old paint surfacing through the new. Plus on a 10+ year old car, hard to find with zero paint work at some point. Another reason to remove all the paint is to regain sharp body lines and edges that several layers of potential previous respray have rounded off. Finally you can fix small dings by working the metal and not using body filler. Good old fashion lacquer is illegal in most U.S states and I'm not convinced the new urethane based materials adhere to the old as well. Extremely picky on certain things.
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bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 80.6.168.241
Posted on Monday, 27 October, 2008 - 04:59:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My car was originally Peacock blue but because the car is used as my daily runabout the paint was getting marked which touching in was impossible to hide with that colour.

So I painted the car black and now marks are easily covered a quick flick from the spray gun and they are gone.

London taxi cabs are black for reason -- best colour to touch up quick.

White cars all though easy to repair because dents and ripples do not show out so much present matching problems.

There are many whites but only one black ? note question mark because One black car I touched up was actually dark brown.

Colour changes geenrally delvalue the car but I don't care because I had the car 20 years and it still goes fine.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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StevenBrown
New User
Username: stevenbrown

Post Number: 6
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 28 October, 2008 - 04:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Black is the easiest for touch up and match properly.

If your vehicle is in good shape paint wise. One extra detail tip, I do this at least one time on a new to me older car. I'll wash the car with a household dish soap with degrease properties. Then I'll use a product called a clay bar from a company called Mothers. Second step; California Gold Sealer and Glaze from Mothers. And last... their California Gold Natural Formula Pure Carnauba Wax (phase 3). If the paint has lots of viewable swirl marks, oxidation, etcetera. On stage 2, I'll use a machine polisher and a product of sealer and glaze designed for machine use, 3M is best. Explanation of a clay bar:




http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=190227

see if the this works: <object><param><param><param><param></object>

Doing this any time I buy an older car, has given better than respraying results. Warmer sun climates, highly recommend at least one clay bar treatment and the other steps. Will leave your car shinning like she just came from the showroom when new! And be just as smooth to touch.

Respraying even in the same colors, does effect value. Doing this better protects and renews your original paint. Its very much like leather care.
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StevenBrown
New User
Username: stevenbrown

Post Number: 7
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Tuesday, 28 October, 2008 - 05:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Another video for older original paint cars. If you do my second stage with a power buffer machine. I don't however like those miracle type formula solution as in the video. Some of the newer power buffers have orbital action built in and with traditional sealer and glaze its near impossible to burn the paint. The second key the sealer and glaze product must be for machine use. Hence the 3M line switch. Yo can also add in the color sand technique. The spray wax they use is also not recommended by me.

http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/video/video_player.shtml?vid=201475

Like the video if your RR/Bentley is a 1971 example. You'll get as newly painted results without resorting to a respray.