Mk VI King Pins Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Miscellaneous » Threads to 2010 » Mk VI King Pins « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Lex Lynch
Posted on Thursday, 03 May, 2001 - 21:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I am about to embark on reconditioning my king pins, I have had them apart before but suspect that there is an overdue amount of wear and would like to hear from anyone who has completed this work recently. I would really like to know what the original diamensions were and if these are listed in the workshop manuel, a copy of which I don't possess. Should be straight forward at least I hope so!
Thanks from - Lex Lynch + Audrey B111 JN 1950
Melbourne
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Vatter
Posted on Wednesday, 16 May, 2001 - 09:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

From your chassis number, I see that you have the later type king pins and dual center steering arms fitted to Chassis B1GT and later cars. The early and late king pins and bearings do not interchange. There are several critical dimensions and a procedure in the shop manual for determining that replacement bearings have full surface contact between the rollers and outer race, as thickness dimensions allowable in individual parts can add unfavorably to result in incorrect alignment with insufficient contact, necessitating addition of shims. Also, it is vital that on reassembly the oil passages in assembled parts are correctly aligned. With incorrect alignment, oil from the Bijur will not get to the bearings, and the bearings will fail in short order. (This may be a reason the Bijur sometimes receives unwarranted negative comments.) I would not recommend the task before you be attempted without the service instructions at hand. Some of the available service books address only the early type king pins, so you need to be careful to make sure you are looking at the right information.

The RROC (US) has the necessary references available for purchase, and if you are going to do mechanical work on your car you sould get your own set of books. Of the books available, the "Post-War Service Instructions" ($50 US) which address Silver Wraith, Silver Dawn, and Bentley Mk VI and R-type cars has the information you need, and is the best reference I know of for the task you have at hand. The "Silver Wraith Shop Manual" which is more detailed on many subjects does not address the later-style king pin, and I suspect the manual for the Mk VI bentley may have this same deficiency.

You can contact the RROC at www.rroc.org. I don't know if they sell to non-members, but there are several RROC members in Australia. Perhaps there is someone in Melbourne who has the books you need and could loan them.

The RROC (US) directory lists a few members living in Victoria who have early-post war cars, but I hesitate to pass their names along in a public forum out of respect for their privacy.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Martin Cutler
Posted on Monday, 21 May, 2001 - 12:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Lex,

I have a photocopy of the manual, if you haven't sourced it yet. I am in Sydney.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Treacy
Posted on Tuesday, 22 May, 2001 - 20:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

To: Lex@bigpond.com - message failed

Subject: Mk VI King Pins

This is an easy, straightforward job, but parts are expensive. Simply follow the instructions in the workshop manual: you will need a puller, but a universal type is OK. If it is really tight, the bottom of the king pin is threaded, so you can use a bolt to extract it. You can buy parts from Introcar on

http://www.introcar.co.uk/introcar4/retail.html

An overhaul kit costs £229, about AUD$650. Usually, if you feel any play then the king pins and bushes are shot. If by some miracle they are OK, you can buy the needle rollers either from R-R or from most Bearing Service outlets locally. Alternatively try R.A. Chapman at http://www.rachapmanautomotive.com.au/

Also, the lower yoke pin and bearing are usually shot if the king pin is worn. Again: easy job, expensive parts.

If you need a copy of the workshop manual just give me your fax number.

Have fun.

RT.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Lex Lynch
Posted on Thursday, 24 May, 2001 - 17:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Bill Vatter, Martin Cutler and Richard Treacy. Thank you for spending the time and providing me with your knowledge and contacts. I have a workshop manuel which specifies the procedure etc and I guess diamensions are taken from original parts, I was just wondering if original engineering diamensions were available for the king pins and bearings, however thankyou again, Lex Lynch
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bill Vatter
Posted on Sunday, 03 June, 2001 - 01:20:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Lex, are you contemplating making king pins from scratch? I know of no workshop manual that contains engineering dimensions. I think the best source fro that information would be the RREC in the UK.

Regarding Richard's discouraging price information, used parts are an alternative. I got a price quote of about $250 (US) shortly after I acquired my present car, when I thought I detected a loose king pin. This was from Tony handler (www.rolsfix.com) Lucky for me my problem turned out to be a loose (improperly shimmed) wheel bearing. I have no problem with used parts. After all, that is all there will be someday, and quite a few new parts are already unobtainable