| Author | Message | ||
     Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 47 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi All, I was wondering if anybody could help me out once again!! Since I bought the corniche and I am going through the brakes oweing to the car being stored for 10 years, Only I have no owners manual which I need to get hold of .I do have workshop manual for the shadow II but things are different. The two brake lights? is the left hand side one system 1 and right system 2 ? only I have the left one on all the time then goe's out when on tick over for a while press the brake and it comes on again? and the right light never comes on , But if I press the test button it comes on. Any advice welcome Regards to you all From Rodney in Spain | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 133 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Rodney. The two brake lights? is the left hand side one system 1 and right system 2 ? YES Run the engine on fast idle for 5 mins. Turn the engine off, put the ignition back on. Pump the brake pedal whilst counting the presses until both lights come on. Stop at 100 if they aren't both on. If the light still does not come on, you may need the accumulator switch overhauled or a wire may be off. It sounds like No 1 may need an accumulator. Let us know what you find. Regards, Paul. | ||
| Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 48 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Paul. Thanks for your help ,System 1 as soon as I put my foot on the brake light comes on does'nt give me an chance to pump more so it must be the accumulator I guess and system 2 no light at all after pumping 100 times must be the switch!and once renewed see what happens the accumulator could be bad also.These switches have to be original or are there any pattern parts out there do you know? Thanks Again Rodney | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 134 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hello Rodney, They have to be original, but they are available reconditioned or you could try and recondition them yourself. ( the main moving part swells and sticks ) You could also swap them over and repeat the test. ( depressurise before removing them. ) Also , bring the 1 light on, pull of the lead to the front accumulator switch and make sure the light goes out. Earth the wire to the rear accumulator and make sure the light comes on inside. (just to make sure that you have a good circuit.) Reagrds, Paul. | ||
| Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 49 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hello Paul, O.K will do that , I have just been dismantling the front brake pump as I suspected it was filthy, Then I took the push rod out and on my shadow II I remember the end of the push rod like a ball, This one is bent and a piece missing it seems to be how could this happen? if I had the proper length I could get one made here but I have no idea only to dismantle rear pump and look at this one! what worries me is where has the little ball end gone (if they are the same as a shadow cannot see in the workshop manual) and why bent? this would be bad pumping of course Regards Rodney | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 135 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Rodney, You should check that the pump is moving freely over it's whole length. Strip and check for broken springs. The idea of the 'wasted' part of the shaft is to bend if the pump sticks. Early cars had a same diameter shaft all the way down, but if the pump jammed the camshaft got damaged. Use a pencil magnet to see if the broken end is in the bottom cam follower, if not they just disappear into the cam chest or sump. I've not had a problem caused by a missing bit. IMHO It's not cost effective to have a shaft made, they are heat treated etc. We get them for about £50 in the UK. I may have one here. A pump overhaul kit is about £30 Might be an idea to remove the rear pump and check that at the same time. Good luck. | ||
| Rodney Peach Experienced User Username: rodney Post Number: 50 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Paul. I have checked springs in pump etc all O.K , but as you said it could have got stuck at one time, Tried the pencil magnet and nothing to bits . The push rod is not the same diameter all the way down it is like my shadow II thick at top then thin at bottom with what would be the little rounded end that is missing. I have looked at flying spares but it says push rod modification kit 279 pounds or normal 100 .seems expensive!! Yes going to remove the rear one now. Cheers | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 136 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Rodney, The modification was from a straight rod to the type you have, so you don't need a mod kit. Just a modified push rod. | ||
| Rodney Peach Frequent User Username: rodney Post Number: 51 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Paul, I have removed the rear pump and is absolutely filthy too ,Soo going to clean and fit new rubbers . I have took the push rod out this one is O.K. the piece that is missing from the other is about one cm , I am sorry but when you say the broken piece can disappear into the cam chest or sump can it get by the cam follower?? I have never dismantled one of them yet so I don't know what they look like only in the workshop manual which doe's not show alot about it. Cheers Rodney | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 138 Registered: 6-2006 |
Modified / later cam follower bodies have a cut out on one side so the bit could escape. Spray Carburettor cleaner down the hole and try the magnet again. Try the other rod in the front hole. pour some engine oil down the hole when you've finished. Regards, Paul. | ||
| Rodney Peach Frequent User Username: rodney Post Number: 56 Registered: 12-2003 |
Hi Paul, I have sorted the push rod problem and cleaned the pumps new seals etc.Started her up number one light on all the time but no brakes at all .So I am trying to dismantle the front accumulator but on this model not like shadow II it will not screw off without taking off the valve body for what I can see is this correct ?? it touches the block and does not spin round anymore? is the rear pump the same? with the car being stood for ten years not used at all do you think I should re-new both accumulator diaphragms and re-charge ? Regards and thankyou for your help and advice Rodney | ||
| Paul Yorke Prolific User Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 144 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hello Rodney, Sorry for the delay in answering. Make sure that the pumps are not air locked. With the engine OFF Loosen of the feed pipe to let any air out of the pipe and body. You may have to SLIGHTLY loosen the high pressure outlet pipe as with the engine RUNNING. Cover with a cloth. Usual warnings about brake fluid and paintwork not mixing etc.! After 10 years and the sound of the condition of the brake fluid pluss all the other work you are doing, I would change the accumulators. I have always taken the valve body off the car to change the accumulators, held the accumulator with my hand and undone the valve. How did you turn it? Don't damage the body or it will be no good for exchanging if that is the way you go. |
