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Ralph Brooks
Unregistered guest
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Posted on Thursday, 16 October, 2003 - 12:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks for your suggetions re my start problrm. aayhe car would start and run for 30 seconds and quit. The solution was to replace the oil presure switch (with a generic Chevy unit US$ 12) and the fuel pump with a Masters E1082S (US$ 40).
Now for my next problem: with everything turned off, I am measuring a 6 amp draw on the battery. I suspect the A/C system, but unfortunately, mu manual is missing section C, the A/C chapter. I desparately need at least the schematic - other info such as parts location is also welcome, Preferably in PDF format. Thanks in advance for your help
Ralph Brooks, 1980 LRL40634, email: ralphb@mchsi.com
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David Gore
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 121
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 17 October, 2003 - 23:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP


You should start by checking the diodes ["bulls eyes"] on your fuse panel. These are intended to stop current flow from the A/C electricals however they can fail and cause the battery to go flat. There are a number of posts on this site on testing diodes; just use the search utility, type in the word "diode" and search for the last 365 days.

If these diodes are OK then the next most likely cause will be the rectifier diodes in the car alternator. You can check this by disconnecting the leads from the alternator, if the current stops the rectifier diode[s] are the cause.

If these tests fail, remove all fuses from the fuse box and re-insert one by one until you find which circuit causes the current to flow. You will then have to trace each component on this circuit until you find the offending item.

One of our more experienced owners recently told me of the existence of additional undocumented diodes in the Shadow wiring which were only found when he unwrapped the covering whilst trying to track down a similar problem.