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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 9
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 00:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I shall shortly replace the steering rack on my 1987 Turbo R 20037 with the improved design from a later model as recommended by Crewe using a genuine Crewe conversion kit The old rack is less than three years old, and drips oil, so I shall replace it before it becomes too bad.

The manual describes a rack centring tool RH 12123. Does anyone know what this is ? Is it merely a metric bolt, and if so what size is it ?

Many thanks,

Richard.
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Bill Coburn
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Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 6
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 09:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Richard

If it is the same basic design as the earlier racks, there is a small bolt (7/16"AF head ?) you remove on the underside of the rack casing and presumably you screwed in the 'tool'which would be a spigotted bolt. I simply found the biggest drill shank I could fit into the hole. Wiggling the 'rack' to and fro the drill will drop into a locating hole and it is then 'dead centre'. The hardest thing I found was getting the spline of the column universal joint onto the spigot shaft of the rack at the right place. I have done this three times and each time I would be one spline out (it is not mastered). Checking with the gurus who do this all the time they said they have the same problem so stop complaining. The solution is to do the best you can and hot foot it your friendly neighbourhood wheel aligner and correct the steering wheel position on the tie rods.

One other thing to remember is that the hydraulic connections are metric and very close together. I went to Joe Fisher (?Fisher Discount), bought some cheap spanners and cut and ground them until they fitted. The nipples are best attacked with an 'open-ended' ring if you get my drift. Cheers
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David Gore
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Username: david_gore

Post Number: 24
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 10:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi All,

Further to Bill's ring spanner modifications - I had the same problem with "butchered" unions on DRH14434 and had to resort to "Metrinch" design ring spanners to bear on the centre of the flats to allow them to be undone. I just cut an access slot for the pipe with my long-suffering angle grinder. The quality of the "Metrinch" product is such that the ring section does not "spring" and take a permanent set when applying the 500ft/lbs needed for certain recalcitrant fittings!!!! Another benefit is one spanner will fit the equivalent imperial and metric fasteners reducing the clutter in your tool box.
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 11
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 17:44:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks, Bill and David. Last time I also used a drill bit to centre the rack, and from what you write this is OK. I also have a full set of Metrinch sockets and ring-open ended spanners.

Needless to say I am very disappionted with these steering racks, I am just hoping that the newer type is better. I have bought the new rack and the conversion kit from a premuim source in hope that the quality is A1. Any comments on substituting the Dexron by LHM ? I'm prepared to be brave on this one.

Thanks again,

RT.
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Bill Coburn
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Username: bill_coburn

Post Number: 7
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 23:11:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

richard
Under the influence of a particularly fine single malt I can admit that the shocks on the S2 are running on a synthetic version of Dexron since it is conceivably never changed. Given the embuggerance of these racks I would ask the oil people what they think of the compatibility of seals etc to LHM! Don't talk to the front office people get to the lab rats they usually are honest (don't say I said so etc!). If you are changing racks by the way can I urge you to change all the rubber (?)pipes including the high pressure hose and particularly the hoses and the oil cooler. Fit a filter!!!!!!
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 12
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 15 May, 2003 - 23:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Bill,

I called Castrol in the UK just then. They advise that LHM is fully compatible with the seals etc, but LHM is half the viscosity. As the rack itself is a slow moving part, the expert suggests that using will probably not improve the life of the seals, and would be more prone to leakage. The outcome is that I shall stick to Dexron III. Yes, I shall replace all the rubber hoses and fit a filter.

What does an exchange rack cost in Australia ? I paid, in the UK, A$720 plus VAT and shipping, plus A$200 for the conversion kit. There are cheaper ones at around A$450, but I don't trust the cheapies. I e-mailes a firm in the US twice without response. They offer a lifetime guarantee.

http://www.atlantic-ent.com/

Many thanks,

Richard.
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David Gore
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Username: david_gore

Post Number: 25
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Friday, 16 May, 2003 - 00:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Richard,

Thanks for info on fluids and have added this to the archives. As a matter of interest, B&M who make overhaul kits for the GM Turbo 400 transmissions recommend the Ford Type F fluid over Dexron for this transmission as it "firmed-up" the shifts due to its lower slip characteristics [they now market a similar fluid under their own brand-name "Trick Shift"] - it might be worthwhile getting Castrol's opinion on Type F fluid for your application.
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 14
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 17 May, 2003 - 20:57:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

In the workshop manuals of SSII and SZ cars, they quote that the steering rack itself (NOT the power steering side) is lubricated by Hypoid 90 oil as in the rear axle. However, no reference is given on the correct oil level. The manual only states:
21. Carefully replace the steering rack ensuring no damage occurs to the PTFE bearings and oil seals. Then fit the pinion unit. Top up the system with lubricating oil".

There is no reference under maintenance to check the level periodically.

Can someone help on where to fill the rack (blanking plug ?) and how full it should be (up to the level of the plug ?

Many thanks,

Richard.
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 15
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Saturday, 17 May, 2003 - 21:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Oh, I found it under convoluted seals replacement: 0.1 pint is simply poured in before tightening the seals (rubber boot).
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John Wright
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Posted From: 63.60.212.18
Posted on Thursday, 14 August, 2003 - 21:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I was wondering if it is possible to change my Shadow II (SRH 35475) to a later power steering rack. I was thinking of using a Bentley Turbo R rack in place of the original which I find a bit too light. Can anyone tell me :
a. Is this technically feasible ?
b. What parts would be needed ( I understand an
adaptor kit is required) ?
c. Some indication of cost
d. Any problems that might be
experienced (other than cost)
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 46
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 14 August, 2003 - 22:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The racks will bolt straight on provided the new rack comes from an SZ car of Bentley chassis 23935 or before. No adaptor kit is required at all for these racks. Later racks will fit but need a new lower steering column and a fixing kit RH3034 which costs $300. They have improved pipework but no change in weighting or feel by themselves. For the best feel, use the Bentley lower column UR70827 (around A$250) with the later Bentley rack UR71718, otherwise the Rolls-Royce post 24496 column bolts on to a late Bentley rack too.

This setup, with a late rack, kit and UR71718 column is what I recently fitted to my Turbo R.

The post-24496 SZ Rolls-Royces used a lower steering column, softer than the Bentleys, which looks like a SSII one but has different splines.

There is no point in fitting an SZ R-R rack as they are the same part number as on a SSII early on, and the later ones feel exactly the same but have different mountings and pipework both the same as a Bentley. The only improvement would be with a Turbo rack or any post-chassis 12834 Bentley rack, other than Continental T which would be even better, as they are all the same taking the mounting kit into consideration of course.

Count on four hours for the whole job, and you can expect no problems.
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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 47
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 14 August, 2003 - 23:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just to correct the part numbers of racks, the suitable RHD Bentley racks are:

UR27336 without kit, bolt on
UR70708 with conversion kit, fitted to Bentley chassis 23936 to 27998
UR71818 later with conversion kit, fitted to Bentley chassis from 27999 onwards

The UR71818 has the advantage that it is easier to overhaul as the rack and pinion meshing is adjusted externally by means of an adjustment bolt. They may be easily adjusted in service. All earlier racks need shimming during assembly, and the rack needs removal to do this. Also, racks from chassis 23936 do not have oil in the rack. Instead they are filled with special grease. However, I understand that earlier racks, including SSIIs, can be filled with grease instead of gear oil. This is a worthwhile improvement as it doesn’t leak out past the bellows, nor is it so susceptible to Dexron contamination in a leaky rack. The grease is CV joint grease such as 80 g of ROCOL MTS100.


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Richard Treacy
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Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 48
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Thursday, 14 August, 2003 - 23:51:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

John,

You can convert your rack to Turbo R spec by replacing the torsion bar in the pinion valve unit by one from a Turbo R. That is the only difference between SSII and pre- 23935 Turbo R rack assemblies. All RR-B steering racks except for the Continental T have the same turns lock to lock. They only changed the torsion bar to a stiffer one to improve feel. This may be the cheapest option during your next overhaul.