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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 40
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 07:52 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi,
Re; 1990 Mulsanne S chassis 32556.

I want to check the timing but cannot find a pointer on the engine to act as reference to the pulley timing marks. I can find nothing relevant in the manual.
Other cars that I have owned have had a pointed indicator of some kind adjacent to the pulley.
I have a strobe light.
Any help appreciated.
Regards
Darryl
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Jeff Young
Grand Master
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 366
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 08:53 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

On the Shadows it's at the other end (on the ring gear). There's a cover plate on the bellhousing that has to be opened.

Not sure if the Mulsanne is the same, but I'd guess it is.
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Chris Browne
Prolific User
Username: chrisb

Post Number: 285
Registered: 2-2010
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 09:37 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all,

On the Shadows, the timing marks are on a pulley low down on the front of the engine on the left hand side when viewed from the driving seat.
Hope this helps,
Kind regards,

Chris
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 42
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 09:53 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi,
Thanks for replies.
I can see the timing marks on the pulley but cannot see a fixed reference point(er)

Regards
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michael vass
Grand Master
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 435
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 10:19 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Darryl
Surely your car has electronic ignition so is not adjustable anyway?
Mike
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Jeff Young
Grand Master
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 367
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Thursday, 25 January, 2018 - 11:20 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My bad. I was thinking of my other classic (Land Rover Series 2a -- they're pretty much the same as a Shadow, no?).
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 43
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 02:13 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael,
The distributor has been out so I want to make sure that it back in the right place & not one gear out.
(It went back the same as it came out but it has been out before). I am assuming that electronic ignition can't compensate for the dizzy being one gear out or am I wrong?

Jeff,
Wasn't that the Series 1 Landy?

Regards
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Jeff Young
Grand Master
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 368
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 02:36 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Darryl,

Might be the Series 1 too, but all I've ever owned is a 2a, so it's the one I know.

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Chris Browne
Prolific User
Username: chrisb

Post Number: 286
Registered: 2-2010
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 03:13 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Darryl,

To find the pointer which is bolted to the casting behind the pulley, if you imagine looking at the pulley from the front of the car, the pointer is in the one o’clock position. This means that it is quite high up in relation to the pulley but is visible from the side if you get down low enough.

Kind regards,

Chris
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 44
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 03:42 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Chris,

Found it!!!! Talk about well hidden.

Thanks for your help

Regards
Darryl
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michael vass
Grand Master
Username: mikebentleyturbo2

Post Number: 436
Registered: 7-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 04:26 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Darryl
Yes it does need to be in the right place, presuming you had them out to change the belt ,did you have any problems getting them apart .i.e. to get the shafts out?
Cheers
Mike
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 45
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 05:57 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Mike,
Dist's came out easily. Had a problem with removing No. 1 rotor arm and I damaged something inside the distributor so that it wouldn't turn smoothly.
Obtained a used twin dist. that turned out to have a seized screw in the 2nd dist'r. Made one good twin out of two.
Originally the 2nd dist was one tooth out on the belt out hence me wanting to set timing.
Regards
Darryl
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 2002
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 10:04 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

A timing light won't help.

Put the crank pointer on TDC.

Make sure the rotor arm is pointing at A1.

Anybody else starting this job should flick the engine around until the rotor arm is pointing at the mark on the body before starting. Mark with tipex for peace of mind.

Don't crank the engine with the distributor out.

Good luck.
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 47
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 January, 2018 - 06:18 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Paul,

I found the page with the same info in the service manual last night.

I've set/checked static timing on several coil & points ignition systems over the years, but probably not for 15 years or more, followed by checking with a strobe light with the engine running.
I wasn't thinking when I included the strobe in my original post.

Regards
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 49
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 01:35 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all,
Timing miles out.
It took a while to find a socket equivalent to fit the .872 NF nut. (1 5/16 AF. A 34mm is only slightly larger), on the pulley.
Removed spark plugs and turned engine to TDC compression if I have rocker order correct.
Can anyone confirm that the rocker order from the front of the engine is inlet - exhaust – inlet etc.
That’s how it looks in the parts list for the engine.
Haven’t refitted parts and started the engine yet. (note the positive thinking).
Many thanks.
Regards
Darryl
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Darryl Watson
Experienced User
Username: inox

Post Number: 50
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 05:10 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Typo - should read .87" UNF nut.
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Robert J. Sprauer
Experienced User
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 06:11 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

If you are at TDC for cylinder A1 both valves will be closed. You can also verify if you at on A1 by removing the dist cap and observe the location of the rotor (should point to A1 lead) just to be sure.
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Darryl Watson
Frequent User
Username: inox

Post Number: 51
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 06:33 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Robert,
I am trying to double check that the front valve is inlet because TDC occurs at the end of compression and end of exhaust.
Watching when inlet opens tells me that the cylinder is on the induction stroke and and the next TDC will be ignition A1.

Regards
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Maxwell Heazlewood
Prolific User
Username: tasbent

Post Number: 149
Registered: 9-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 12:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Darryl....for future reference, make it easy on yourself and get one of those screw in TDC finders.
There's three types, one with a centre rod, one which blows bubbles and the one I like is the one that whistles.
In the case of RR-B heads, I would suggest the whistler....it let's of a whistle as the piston approaches TDC on compression stroke.
Used these for years....mainly on bikes.
You can also use a short rod with a rubber bung on the end to press into No1 plug hole.
Varify that rotor is pointing to A1....makes life so much simpler

You can then fine tune the system with strobe....making sure that the twin dizzy set-up is in sync.
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Darryl Watson
Frequent User
Username: inox

Post Number: 52
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 06:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Maxwell.
I think that my subconscious has been at work while I was asleep.
If one valve is open on the up stroke Exhaust stroke
If both valves are closed on the up stroke Compression stroke.
Regards
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Maxwell Heazlewood
Prolific User
Username: tasbent

Post Number: 150
Registered: 9-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 06:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Darryl, if you listen carefully, you can here the 'hush' sound as air is expelled from the A1 plug 'ole AS you rotate around and look at the rocker positions of A1 you will notice that
inlet dips when on intake stroke followed by closing as piston reaches TDC, where both valves should be closed.....confirm this by rotor pointing to A1.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 2008
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Tuesday, 13 February, 2018 - 06:59 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Darryl.

Don't fret about compression stroke if correcting to TDC by a tooth or so.

Turn to TDC. is the rotor nearly correct or a mile out?

If a mile out turn engine again to TDC.

Reassess.

If close then move one tooth.

If correct . Happy days.

Make sure the distributor fixing bolt hole is lined up when checking..

Remember they are not straight cut gears so the rotor arm will not point to the mark out of the car but should rotate to it as it slides home.

Good luck.
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Darryl Watson
Frequent User
Username: inox

Post Number: 53
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Wednesday, 14 February, 2018 - 12:13 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks to everyone for their input.
I discovered that when the TDC mark was aligned with the pointer on the engine A1 piston was near the bottom of its stroke. That would explain why the timing appeared to be miles out.
Why it should be I don’t know because nothing has changed in the eleven + years we’ve owned the car.
Using a bit of lateral thinking from Maxwell’s suggestions I place a cone of toilet tissue in the plug hole to ascertain the compression stroke then the TDC the old-fashioned way with a torque screw driver through the plug hole.
Set the distributors. Replaced all the parts I had removed and the engine started straight away.
I’ve yet to give it a road test.
Regards

Darryl
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Maxwell Heazlewood
Prolific User
Username: tasbent

Post Number: 151
Registered: 9-2017
Posted on Wednesday, 14 February, 2018 - 04:34 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dazza...a little bit of lateral thinking goes a long way Glad you got it sorted....now a quick tune up with the strobe....reaching the correct degrees advanced at certain rpm.
With a little judicious attention you could possibly advance the timing a little to take advantage of modern fuel.

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