| Author | Message | ||
     Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 40 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi, Re; 1990 Mulsanne S chassis 32556. I want to check the timing but cannot find a pointer on the engine to act as reference to the pulley timing marks. I can find nothing relevant in the manual. Other cars that I have owned have had a pointed indicator of some kind adjacent to the pulley. I have a strobe light. Any help appreciated. Regards Darryl | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 366 Registered: 10-2010 |
On the Shadows it's at the other end (on the ring gear). There's a cover plate on the bellhousing that has to be opened. Not sure if the Mulsanne is the same, but I'd guess it is. | ||
| Chris Browne Prolific User Username: chrisb Post Number: 285 Registered: 2-2010 |
Hi all, On the Shadows, the timing marks are on a pulley low down on the front of the engine on the left hand side when viewed from the driving seat. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Chris | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 42 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi, Thanks for replies. I can see the timing marks on the pulley but cannot see a fixed reference point(er) Regards | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 435 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Darryl Surely your car has electronic ignition so is not adjustable anyway? Mike | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 367 Registered: 10-2010 |
My bad. I was thinking of my other classic (Land Rover Series 2a -- they're pretty much the same as a Shadow, no?). | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 43 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi Michael, The distributor has been out so I want to make sure that it back in the right place & not one gear out. (It went back the same as it came out but it has been out before). I am assuming that electronic ignition can't compensate for the dizzy being one gear out or am I wrong? Jeff, Wasn't that the Series 1 Landy? Regards | ||
| Jeff Young Grand Master Username: jeyjey Post Number: 368 Registered: 10-2010 |
Hi Darryl, Might be the Series 1 too, but all I've ever owned is a 2a, so it's the one I know. Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Chris Browne Prolific User Username: chrisb Post Number: 286 Registered: 2-2010 |
Hi Darryl, To find the pointer which is bolted to the casting behind the pulley, if you imagine looking at the pulley from the front of the car, the pointer is in the one o’clock position. This means that it is quite high up in relation to the pulley but is visible from the side if you get down low enough. Kind regards, Chris | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 44 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi Chris, Found it!!!! Talk about well hidden. Thanks for your help Regards Darryl | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 436 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Darryl Yes it does need to be in the right place, presuming you had them out to change the belt ,did you have any problems getting them apart .i.e. to get the shafts out? Cheers Mike | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 45 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi Mike, Dist's came out easily. Had a problem with removing No. 1 rotor arm and I damaged something inside the distributor so that it wouldn't turn smoothly. Obtained a used twin dist. that turned out to have a seized screw in the 2nd dist'r. Made one good twin out of two. Originally the 2nd dist was one tooth out on the belt out hence me wanting to set timing. Regards Darryl | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2002 Registered: 6-2006 |
A timing light won't help. Put the crank pointer on TDC. Make sure the rotor arm is pointing at A1. Anybody else starting this job should flick the engine around until the rotor arm is pointing at the mark on the body before starting. Mark with tipex for peace of mind. Don't crank the engine with the distributor out. Good luck. | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 47 Registered: 4-2015 |
Thanks Paul, I found the page with the same info in the service manual last night. I've set/checked static timing on several coil & points ignition systems over the years, but probably not for 15 years or more, followed by checking with a strobe light with the engine running. I wasn't thinking when I included the strobe in my original post. Regards | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 49 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi all, Timing miles out. It took a while to find a socket equivalent to fit the .872 NF nut. (1 5/16 AF. A 34mm is only slightly larger), on the pulley. Removed spark plugs and turned engine to TDC compression if I have rocker order correct. Can anyone confirm that the rocker order from the front of the engine is inlet - exhaust – inlet etc. That’s how it looks in the parts list for the engine. Haven’t refitted parts and started the engine yet. (note the positive thinking). Many thanks. Regards Darryl | ||
| Darryl Watson Experienced User Username: inox Post Number: 50 Registered: 4-2015 |
Typo - should read .87" UNF nut. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Experienced User Username: wraithman Post Number: 18 Registered: 11-2017 |
If you are at TDC for cylinder A1 both valves will be closed. You can also verify if you at on A1 by removing the dist cap and observe the location of the rotor (should point to A1 lead) just to be sure. | ||
| Darryl Watson Frequent User Username: inox Post Number: 51 Registered: 4-2015 |
Hi Robert, I am trying to double check that the front valve is inlet because TDC occurs at the end of compression and end of exhaust. Watching when inlet opens tells me that the cylinder is on the induction stroke and and the next TDC will be ignition A1. Regards | ||
| Maxwell Heazlewood Prolific User Username: tasbent Post Number: 149 Registered: 9-2017 |
Darryl....for future reference, make it easy on yourself and get one of those screw in TDC finders. There's three types, one with a centre rod, one which blows bubbles and the one I like is the one that whistles. In the case of RR-B heads, I would suggest the whistler....it let's of a whistle as the piston approaches TDC on compression stroke. Used these for years....mainly on bikes. You can also use a short rod with a rubber bung on the end to press into No1 plug hole. Varify that rotor is pointing to A1....makes life so much simpler  You can then fine tune the system with strobe....making sure that the twin dizzy set-up is in sync. | ||
| Darryl Watson Frequent User Username: inox Post Number: 52 Registered: 4-2015 |
Thanks Maxwell. I think that my subconscious has been at work while I was asleep. If one valve is open on the up stroke Exhaust stroke If both valves are closed on the up stroke Compression stroke. Regards | ||
| Maxwell Heazlewood Prolific User Username: tasbent Post Number: 150 Registered: 9-2017 |
Darryl, if you listen carefully, you can here the 'hush' sound as air is expelled from the A1 plug 'ole AS you rotate around and look at the rocker positions of A1 you will notice that inlet dips when on intake stroke followed by closing as piston reaches TDC, where both valves should be closed.....confirm this by rotor pointing to A1. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 2008 Registered: 6-2006 |
Darryl. Don't fret about compression stroke if correcting to TDC by a tooth or so. Turn to TDC. is the rotor nearly correct or a mile out? If a mile out turn engine again to TDC. Reassess. If close then move one tooth. If correct . Happy days. Make sure the distributor fixing bolt hole is lined up when checking.. Remember they are not straight cut gears so the rotor arm will not point to the mark out of the car but should rotate to it as it slides home. Good luck. | ||
| Darryl Watson Frequent User Username: inox Post Number: 53 Registered: 4-2015 |
Thanks to everyone for their input. I discovered that when the TDC mark was aligned with the pointer on the engine A1 piston was near the bottom of its stroke. That would explain why the timing appeared to be miles out. Why it should be I don’t know because nothing has changed in the eleven + years we’ve owned the car. Using a bit of lateral thinking from Maxwell’s suggestions I place a cone of toilet tissue in the plug hole to ascertain the compression stroke then the TDC the old-fashioned way with a torque screw driver through the plug hole. Set the distributors. Replaced all the parts I had removed and the engine started straight away. I’ve yet to give it a road test. Regards Darryl | ||
| Maxwell Heazlewood Prolific User Username: tasbent Post Number: 151 Registered: 9-2017 |
Dazza...a little bit of lateral thinking goes a long way Glad you got it sorted....now a quick tune up with the strobe....reaching the correct degrees advanced at certain rpm. With a little judicious attention you could possibly advance the timing a little to take advantage of modern fuel. |
