| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Roberson New User Username: wascator Post Number: 9 Registered: 5-2009 |
Hi, I got underneath Her Eminence yesterday, probing her underparts with my grease gun. I removed one of the button fittings from a tie-rod end and used it on the upper, lower, and damper ball joints. One lower and one damper ball joint would not accept grease. I sprayed WD-40 into the damper ball joint and replaced the plug to let it soak. Any other advice about clearing a plugged joint? What about using a wire to clear the plug? All the joints appear to be tight and the seals look good, but it is obvious She hasn't been exposed to a grease gun in some time; she took it well otherwise, though. I am sure her trunnion joints appreciated the Mobil 1 75W90, I got a teaspoon of old lube out of one and two drops out of the other. By the way, the NGK GR4IX iridium plugs sure smoothed the engine out. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1238 Registered: 4-2003 |
Randy/ These ball joints come completely to pieces. I have always done them on the bench after removing the tie rods but you may not have a splitter to get them off. What you can do is, using a large , I think 1 1/4" ring spanner or socket unscrew the bottom plug. Inside is a very strong sompression spring a spigotted seat with a small dent in the middle and a small ball bearing there. Don't lose the ball bearing! With these bits out the body of the joint will lift up and you can clean and grease to your heart's content. The joint as you will realise rides on that single little ball bearing. Lastly do not bash these joints to get them off. Use a splitter. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 575 Registered: 6-2006 |
Randy, As Bill suggests, stripping is the best method. But in the meantime, yes poking out all the dried out compacted grease with a wire, drill, etc, is acceptable. If you haven't already got a large side lever grease gun (1000psi ish I think) treat her to one. About £15 here. When you get the grease flowing, do it a few times to force all the old grease out. Do it slowly so the grease finds it's way out gently without splitting or popping the rubber covers off. Fingers crossed all the joints are still good with the new grease. (I'm having a problem picturing the bottom ball joint and damper grease points on an early car at the moment though. None on the later ones though) | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1239 Registered: 4-2003 |
Gosh Paul, so you ARE ageing. I remember crankhandles and wipers you could work by hand and sun visors your could not turn to one's flank! On the other hand I stand in awe you can comprehend electronic gearboxes and associated wizardry. We have just bought a vee six Toyota something, that goes like a Turbo, corners like a Ferrari and rides nicely. My mate was recently using the tape player to check some variation on the selection program of performances on a DVD. He had the thing going for ages when he received a phone call from a Toyota agency to advise him that the battery in the car was getting low. This state had been picked up by satellite. I have been having disturbing dreams ever since!! | ||
| Randy Roberson New User Username: wascator Post Number: 10 Registered: 5-2009 |
Thanks Bill and Paul, I am going to go into them when I replace the shock dampers; meanwhile as this is not a daily driver, and the joints all seem to be tight and well-sealed, I am going to try to get grease into these last two before taking more drastic measures. My grease gun is not a side lever but a hand grip sort of thing which was not what I wanted but it was what the store had. It won't put up the pressure a side-lever gun will, though. I will have to study the diagrams in the manuals to be able to mentally picture what Bill is describing. I did know that the joints are repairable if they are not too far gone. | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2122 Registered: 4-2003 |
I have one of those Aurora V slabby thingos in Queensland. Not exactly a Turbo, unless you are an Audi fan, but it does go like stink if you push the pedal too far. Otherwise, Smart.
Now to the subject. If you start the job, just replace all the joints and bushes now with new'uns and forget them for at least 30 years. These parts are not at all expensive these days, and not worth wasting any time on anymore. Yes, I have just replaced all the suspension ball joints and bushes in my Turbo R front suspension. RT. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 579 Registered: 6-2006 |
Randy, I think somebody has already forgotten about yours for 30 years! Not so good  Good to hear that there are no environmental or financial worries down in that neck of the woods.  I must admit, it's been a while since I've heard anybody say "If in doubt - renew throughout". Bill - it IS all becoming a bit too " Big brother is watching you " for my liking to. Although maybe a phone call when the oil pressure light comes on might stop the "I'll just put my foot down and get to the next services" brigade. My friend was doing that DVD test as well . . . He got a call from them saying "the DVD you are watching is not suitable viewing for the 7 year old in left rear seat" 8) | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 12 Registered: 5-2009 |
I got the last two recalcitrant grease points to acceed to my demands last evening; blew out a hose on my new, lever-type grease gun, but I got it going my way.Oh,all my planned repairs and overhauls won't happen overnight; I am as limited as anyone for time, money, and will power. I got a quote from a dealer: $4700 for my parts list. Fortunately She is not about to sit down on the pavement, so I have time to gradually accomplish all my tasks yet still enjoy Her Presence. I enjoy each maintenance and repair task, and I am happy She is in good enough condition that nothing seems to be an emergency. Most parts seem reasonably priced, but Panhard rod rubbers $62 US each? Egad, Montressor! Is there a suitable substitute? She seems perfectly happy with nothing there whatsoever, so how critical could it be? | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 581 Registered: 6-2006 |
Good job Randy! Panhard rod rubbers $62 US Which rod do you mean? | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 13 Registered: 5-2009 |
This is the small link between the body and subframe, approx. underneath the radiator, which purports to provide lateral support to the subframe. There is supposed to be 2 small rubber bushes, which the rod pushes/pulls against. They look like shock damper stem rubbers, maybe slightly larger. Most I've seen are at least rotten; mine are no longer in residence. By the way: I found a small tag fastened to the left-side spring tower reinforcement with two grub screws, it has this stamped on it: "RT 0088777", any idea what this means? I have not found a paint or trim code tag anywhere. | ||
| Bill Payne Experienced User Username: wimpy Post Number: 50 Registered: 1-2007 |
You might want to check the auto supply house close by for sway bar bushings (polyurethane). If they fit you should be good to go. Unlike rubber they can be drilled and cut. | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 14 Registered: 5-2009 |
Interesting development:first Paul asked what the Panhard rod was; then Bill mentions sway-bar bushes. My car Chassis number SRH 9391, has both a front sway bar and a Panhard rod. IntroCar's on-line parts catalog offers parts for both, and indicates that "some cars with a Panhard rod may have been converted to a sway bar". My sway bar bushes and links look good; the Panhard rod has two round rubber bushes on one end, exactly the same configuration as a shock damper stem: a rubber bush on either side of the mount point, to cushion movement in either direction.The bushings are completely gone. What I am calling the Panhard rod is a short link between the front of the subframe and the body structure, underneath the radiator. It's about a foot long, and seems intended to limit movement of the subframe from side to side. I wonder if the sway bar came on the scene when the front hydraulic leveling was discontinued. My car was built after this. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 582 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Randy, That is what I call the Pan hard rod as well. Didn't realise your car was so early. They did away with it fairly early on. Most Shadows didn't have one from new - many early cars have had them removed. The bushes were made out of some semi-clear material that turned to jelly. I think new ones are rubber. I don't think you'll notice any difference with or without it though. I'd go for a sway bar any day! I believe all Shadows had them? | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 15 Registered: 5-2009 |
I'll find a rubber substitute, maybe at the auto parts store as I will feel better if there is something there, filling the gap, so to speak.} | ||
| Roy M Tilley Unregistered guest Posted From: 219.89.98.142 |
There are Nolathane bushes which are the correct OD and ID but have a raised boss on one side. Buy four of these (Pack number 43001 when I did the job in 1998,they are black in colour and have the number SAB305 moulded on them)and cut the boss off three of them. The one with the boss left on goes through the tongue on the subframe after you have trimmed it down from 18 mm to about 15mm diameter.This surgery can be done with an ordinary snap-off knife as it's not a precision job. All that's required is to ensure that the steel tube that goes through the centre of these bushes doesn't contact the steel tongue on the subframe. These bushes are still in excellent condition and cost me only about $NZ30 at the time. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 16 Registered: 5-2009 |
Nice to know; where can I find these or similar in USA? Do they fit a particular application, or? | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 959 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Roy, Pleased to see you on our forum - have missed your input since I left the USA open forum so many years ago. Please register as a member, your future input will be greatly appreciated. Best wishes David | ||
| Randy Roberson Experienced User Username: wascator Post Number: 17 Registered: 5-2009 |
I think this is the front strut rod bushing for the Ford pickup 1980-1991, perfect, exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks a bunch Roy!! I shall obtain these and proceed to rebush my Panhard rod! | ||
| Nigel Johnson Experienced User Username: nigel_johnson Post Number: 33 Registered: 12-2008 |
Geoff's Corniche CRH11939 has the panhard rod. Just bought new bushes from Flying spares, ouch. Regards, Nigel. |
