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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 08:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Having always wanted a Rolls previously owning far too many cars to remember (and wishing I had all the money I spent on my mad petrol head hobby) I recently took the plunge. Rescuing a damsel in distress. More taken ecstasy than a spirit of! if you get my drift. It had been stored for a few years and is being given a full service and stale fuel etc removed.
So, the front windows don't work, the interior is in good condition. The exterior is good, from a distance, without glasses on with sand blowing in your face and looking in direct sunlight!
So my in the cold light of day has more filler in its sills and wheel arches than a botox clinic. However, it is a RR and is still an elegant, beautiful car. But where do I start?. Looking at the overall project its a nightmare..Advice greatly appreciated before I'm divorced.
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 602
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 08:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Divorce might be the easier option.
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Graham Phillips
Frequent User
Username: playtime

Post Number: 244
Registered: 03-2019
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 12:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

G'day everyone,...


Don't be disheartened by body filler.

These cars are hand finished and they often had a little filler used to finish little imperfections when they were made (so I am told and think it was in a documentary)

So unless there is old corrosion don't stress.


Graham.
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Graham Phillips
Frequent User
Username: playtime

Post Number: 245
Registered: 03-2019
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 12:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

G'day everyone,....


If the sill has been corroded you can just have another made.



Graham.
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Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov
Prolific User
Username: soviet

Post Number: 1700
Registered: 02-2013
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 11:23:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Welcome to the forum Steven - all the information you need is here. Larry is showing off his excellent Irish humour of course.

You really only have three immediate problems with your purchase.

1. Keeping the car going;

2. Hiding the cost of keeping the car going;

3. Keeping The Minister of War totally oblivious with any problems associated with 1 or 2 above.

Certain temporary measures for survival ie classy jewellery, fur coats, even stylish expensive high heeled shoes the same colour as the car will help.

Also when under intense interrogation sincere statements like "I bought it for you, or I only bought it because I wanted a car as elegant as you ..." are essential.

The Rust. Wheel arches chrome are available. You need to get them on fast before your Minister of War starts asking questions

The Sills. As she approaches the car for one of the many lovely picnic type drives in the English countryside, point up and she'll look "Oh what a wonderful Robin, plane, cloud..." Naturally you will open the door for her.

Under no circumstances should you attempt to dig out the filler and allow her to see real picture ..

Now financing the rust repairs. If you are a tradesman you can hide a good proportion under replacement of tools etc. If you are an accountant you will know how to cook the books. Under no circumstances announce the cost of panel and paint repairs to the Minister.

Always yap out things like " good grief this car has just jumped in value or what a superb finish this door handle has etc."

Omar will no doubt be along soon to assist in regards to Essential Factors Purtinent To Handling Minister of War. He is our expert on the matter and has so far pulled off some brilliant capers and I am still studying his habits.

Mechanically: CHANGE THE COOLANT UNLESS YOU HAVE DOCUMENTED PROOF ITS BEEN CHANGED IN THE LAST YEAR. ALSO get a High Rate Discharge Test done on the battery and replace if necessary.

Thereafter start reading everything you can about the car on this forum because you really need to make certain the car never fails to proceed when SWMBO is present.

Good Luck

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Omar M. Shams
Prolific User
Username: omar

Post Number: 1971
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 16:33:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dear Steven,
Welcome to our world of mad people who all have different ways of balancing our cars Vs the Minister of Interior. Sometimes the Minister of Interior also doubles up as the minister of War. That lucky Australian Soviet only has a cat to nag him - he ditched all the ministers over the years.

These cars are like any other car but much better built.

My focus would be the hydraulics. This sometimes daunts people and you need to know that it is just simple science and Engineering. No magic an no smoke or mirrors. When I bought my first Rolls-Royce people were duped into thinking that the hydraulics are complex and dangerous and are best kept to the experts. The same goes for air conditioning.
You will need a crash course on the hydraulics. Its not complex but you need to know the fundamentals of how it all works for you to be able to give this system the respect it deserves. Your life and the life of others depends on this.
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Alan Dibley
Frequent User
Username: alsdibley

Post Number: 233
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 17:33:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen, has anyone pointed you towards www.rrtechnical.info ? This is part of this huge source of good information. It is all there.

Alan D.
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Mark Aldridge
Frequent User
Username: mark_aldridge

Post Number: 665
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Monday, 30 March, 2020 - 23:07:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen, following Alan's suggestion, T1 Topics make excellent reading and I consider them the Rolls Royce Bible. Best of luck, I have run Shadows , Spirits and Mulsannes as daily drivers for 22 years and despite the odd breakdown have never regretted a minute ."She Who Must Be Obeyed" helps with maintenance, flatting bodywork trim etc. For a Wedding gift I bought her a pair of overalls- 35 Years ago !
Mark
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 05:49:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello All,

Thank you for your messages and advice much appreciated. I have attached a picture of my Rolls.
I must admit that I have become quite smitten with it. It is just so elegant I feel like I have saved it from the clutches of the breakers yard, but I guess we all need parts to keep our cars alive.

Unfortunately, the filler is more than ironing out imperfections. They bought out the whole company. But I'm going to worry about that in due course and work on the electrics. If anyone has a list of "what fuses go in which slot on the fuse board" it would be very helpful as all I can find is reams of wiring diagrams and a list of "Bulbs and locations in the car".
I guess this is about the only plus of current situation around the world that lockdown means time to work on the car without having to be dragged shopping or visiting family. Which usually happens at the most inappropriate moment. Sorry, darling, I'm self-isolating in the workshop!

Save lives..work on the Rolls!

The Silver Lady
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Jeff Martin
New User
Username: jeff_r_1

Post Number: 22
Registered: 07-2018
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 06:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The photo size/file size of the car is so small it can't be seen.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 07:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Another picture of my car. I have removed the vented chrome hub caps for refurbishment.

The Silver Lady

Stephen - you can post images with a maximum width of 800 pixels at a resolution of 300dpi, this corresponds to an image width of 6.77cm. Your image is 640 x 320 pixels at a resolution of 96dpi which does not allow uploading and viewing in fine detail which is often needed for preparing responses to any questions requiring comment.

.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 07:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

wheel arch

The tip of the iceberg...
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 3654
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 08:02:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen,

You might find the attached guide to posting images on the forum useful:

application/pdfimages
Forum Guide for posting Images.pdf (1530.9 k)


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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 604
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:00:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

If you open the 2 screws on the knee roll beneath the glove compartment on the passenger side you should find the fuse board. Below the fuse board there should be a placard with a diagram showing what each fuse is for and the individual fuse amp ratings. If that placard is missing I can assist you by describing each fuse location if necessary but unfortunately I don't know how to post a copy of the fuse board layout.
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ross kowalski
Prolific User
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 1344
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:13:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen,

Welcome aboard. The car looks good.

You will not be disappointed with the Shadow, it's a great car.


My advice is prioritize exactly what it will take to get the car on the road, then put it on the road. Then put it on the road.

Running cars get worked on wisely to keep the car on the road. Cars disassembled in the back of a garage sit for years.

When I got mine, it was stale gas, cooling hoses wheel bearings, brakes, and lights.

I did paint it before registering it but only because when I was done with the essential items there was still salt on the roads and I couldn't drive it anyway.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 2199
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:39:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Stephen and welcome.

In addition to Larry's comments I add a couple of photos. The first pic shows the fusebox lowered with the diagram tray pulled out. On my car (1974 - LHD) there is just one knurled knob that needs to be undone to drop the fusebox.

p1

p2

Geoff
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 2200
Registered: 05-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

After re-reading Larry's comments it occurs to me the UK models may be very different to the US models, in which case please disregard my entry.
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 605
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Geoff, I think Stephen's car is a later model Silver Shadow 11 with the fuse box on the passenger side. I have downloaded a jpg image of the fuse diagram tray posted originally by Brian Vogel but I haven't a clue about how to transfer that image onto this site as I'm from an age before the internet was even invented.
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 606
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 09:52:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I think I've just worked out how to share the later fuse card image if Stephen could send me a private message so I will have his email address and may be able to post it to him.
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 607
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 10:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK, I've sent the jpg image to Ross Kowalski since I know his email address (at least I think I have done), maybe if Ross receives it he will have the technological knowhow to post it to this thread.
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Omar M. Shams
Prolific User
Username: omar

Post Number: 1973
Registered: 04-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 14:26:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP


Got this from the net. Poor resolution.
My Wraith II is in the shop right now thats why I cant take a photo of it and simply post it
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gordon le feuvre
Frequent User
Username: triumph

Post Number: 340
Registered: 07-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 31 March, 2020 - 17:32:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen,
As guys say there is a lot of info about through RROC AU. You need to quote chassis number as these cars differ a lot between early Shadow 1, late Shadow 1 and the big jump to Shadow11. Just read the official manual in Technical section, it is REALLY informative, giving theory and then guide how to remove/strip units. Start with brakes/hydraulics. Don't forget there is quite a lot on YOU TUBE and if you type in Bentley Heritage, there is free site with manuals, service bulletins and spares cat. Good luck
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 608
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 00:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ross has informed me that my fuse box picture unfortunately didn't arrive to him. I can't find a way to post it but I can describe all the fuse locations and amperage if required.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 00:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi thank you Geoff. I have the card as you have. But it says on the bottom use correct fuse rating and refer to handbook. Helpful as chocolate teapot. Numbering 1-14 is useless. I have purchased a used handbook but not arrived yet. Rolls seem to make sensible things difficult. Why not put rating instead of a number. Same as bulb list. Bit frustrating as seems simples. Thanks again guys for your help. Steve
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 609
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 05:47:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Steve, If your car has the earlier fuse panel then you can get details of the fuses in the technical library at the bottom of the main menu on this forum site. TSD2476 is the manual and a fuse board diagram is illustrated in chapter M, page M5. You may need to enlarge the screen to read the small print on the fuse chart.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 06:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi all. Thank you again for all your help. I think. It is a late model 33009 vin, 1978. I will take pic of fuse board. Just purchased some original bulgin fuses as well as selection box. Some fuses are missing hence no idea what was rating of fuses. I'm going to replace blown bulbs with led ones. Don't know how successful that is. As suggested I'm going to concentrate on getting her on the road. Fortunately it was only stored for a relatively short time. But it's having a complete engine service at a vintage specialist. Once I have done electrics I'm going to get a friend give it a pre mot. As owns mot garage. So I will have a list of issues. Sort of method in my madness. My plan is to drive it at least once a week and use it. That's what they were made for to drive.
Thanks again for all your help much appreciated
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 610
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 07:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Ok Stephen, If you can post a picture of the fuse board and assuming it is similar to mine (SRH37125)I should be able to tell you what fuse number serves what purpose and what the amperage each fuse should be.
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ross kowalski
Prolific User
Username: cdfpw

Post Number: 1345
Registered: 11-2015
Posted on Wednesday, 01 April, 2020 - 12:12:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Larry sent this image which I split in two so as to keep it readable.



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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 611
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Thursday, 02 April, 2020 - 06:16:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That's perfect Ross, thanks, Larry
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Larry Kavanagh
Frequent User
Username: shadow_11

Post Number: 615
Registered: 05-2016
Posted on Thursday, 02 April, 2020 - 11:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Must add that the fuse layout card above is accredited to Brian Vogel's post of some years ago. Thanks Brian.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 8
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Sunday, 05 April, 2020 - 01:22:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks again everyone. I have finally started to look at front windows and central locking. Worried as wires not even connected to one switch.
The car now has a new name.. "Christine".
.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Tuesday, 21 April, 2020 - 07:01:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi guys, does anyone know the spec/size details of the dashboard facia screws on SS2. Previous owner.. used screws to hold dash wood work. Can anyone advise me of dimensions etc of correct stainless steel flat headed bolts.

Who in their right mind would use oversized horrendous screws that donít even fit the holes and stick out in a beautiful piece of wood veneer!!

Thanks guys
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Robert J. Sprauer
Frequent User
Username: wraithman

Post Number: 607
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 21 April, 2020 - 08:24:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Dash screws are oval head, not flat. I have seen cars with Pozidrive and some chrome slotted.
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 18
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Monday, 01 June, 2020 - 08:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi guys,
Well the next issue looms. The two compartment hydraulic oil tank under the bonnet. 1st compartment no problem. 2nd compartment empties pretty much immediately from a leak in front of driver side rear wheel arch. Brakes seem to work, but not sure what 2nd compartment feeds. Iím guessing rear suspension. Looks to be a leaking pipe.. loathed to experiment too much as RR special fluid expensive and more difficult to source. Any suggestions advice.. thank you for support guys
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3053
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 June, 2020 - 09:03:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

If that chamber (which does serve the height control system, as well as brakes, is emptying that fast it should be abundantly obvious where the leak is located, as anything between a waterfall or massive spray, depending on the size of the hole in the line, should occur.

When you are in a situation like this never use RR363, as you're literally throwing money away. For the diagnostic part I'd use straight DOT3 fluid, as you aren't going to be driving, and you're not going to be using it long enough for any damage to occur. If you're uncomfortable with that, use YAK363 (90% DOT3/10% castor oil), for your diagnostic period. But don't use RR363 until you're ready for your final fill and bleed process.

And when you go to replace your hard lines, I can highly recommend cunifer (copper-nickle-iron) brake line rather than the original mild steel. It's much easier to work with and it doesn't corrode.

Brian
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Stephen Bardwell
New User
Username: cobard71

Post Number: 19
Registered: 03-2020
Posted on Monday, 01 June, 2020 - 09:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Brian,
Thank you for your advice. Is it fairly straight forward job to replace the pipes?. Unfortunately I don't have an inspection pit and worry being such a heavy car ramps is not a good idea. Are the easy enough to get too? I'm guessing you buy the pipe and cut it to length? Thanks again Stephen
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Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 3054
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Monday, 01 June, 2020 - 09:43:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Stephen,

The answer when it comes to working on the hydraulics and brakes on these cars is that it can be dirt simple or hellishly difficult, and mostly depending on whether what you're trying to get to is easy to access or not. Until you know the source of your leak, it's hard to say how easy or hard the repair will be. Some of the lines across the rear crossmember are not fun to deal with, but you could have a leak in an ancient hose or because one of the hoses is not connected correctly. There are just too many possibilities. Once you determine where the issue is, an "easy versus hard," statement is easier to make.

Now, to be the contrarian. I have used ramps for working on all my cars, including the RRs, and for years. These cars are not heavier than the weight limits for any of a number of commercially available ramps, and plastic ones at that, only used to elevate one end. I have also used jack stands and a lift (borrowed someone else's garage). The key to safety is NOT loading more weight on whatever your lifting device of choice is than it is rated to hold. The current set of ramps I have is actually from Harbor Freight, and the design of same is safer, in my opinion, than the Rhino Ramps I had (and destroyed because I stupidly tried to drive my partner's truck on to them too quickly - it was a new-to-me vehicle at the time and I wasn't good at modulating "climb speed," and that's my fault). You also always need to give "challenge shoves" to the car once it's on the ramps or jack stands, or once just off the ground on the lift, to ensure it is not going to shift "unexpectedly" and potentially (and probably) kill you. I was never more nervous than when I first started working under these cars, and the engine end in particular, when I had the car up on jack stands. After sufficient time, practice, and developing my standard safety checks before the car was jacked up and after the load was on the stands, it became second nature. I was (and still am not) cavalier, ever, but I'm no longer chewing my nails when I have to work under cars/trucks, period. But knowing what you're doing, then checking what you've done, as far as elevating the vehicle and that it's stable once it's there is a life and death matter. Don't get sloppy, ever.

You do buy the brake line, cut it to length, and flare the ends as needed for the connections involved. If you're doing this off the car it's remarkably easy. It gets trickier if you need to do some of the flaring "in place" or close to it, but it's still not impossible. There have got to be multiple posts from me from the period when I was replacing some of the brake lines on SRH33576.

Brian

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