| Author | Message | |||
     Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2020 |
Having always wanted a Rolls previously owning far too many cars to remember (and wishing I had all the money I spent on my mad petrol head hobby) I recently took the plunge. Rescuing a damsel in distress. More taken ecstasy than a spirit of! if you get my drift. It had been stored for a few years and is being given a full service and stale fuel etc removed. So, the front windows don't work, the interior is in good condition. The exterior is good, from a distance, without glasses on with sand blowing in your face and looking in direct sunlight! So my in the cold light of day has more filler in its sills and wheel arches than a botox clinic. However, it is a RR and is still an elegant, beautiful car. But where do I start?. Looking at the overall project its a nightmare..Advice greatly appreciated before I'm divorced. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 602 Registered: 05-2016 |
Divorce might be the easier option. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 244 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,... Don't be disheartened by body filler. These cars are hand finished and they often had a little filler used to finish little imperfections when they were made (so I am told and think it was in a documentary) So unless there is old corrosion don't stress. Graham. | |||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 245 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... If the sill has been corroded you can just have another made. Graham. | |||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 1700 Registered: 02-2013 |
Welcome to the forum Steven - all the information you need is here. Larry is showing off his excellent Irish humour of course. You really only have three immediate problems with your purchase. 1. Keeping the car going; 2. Hiding the cost of keeping the car going; 3. Keeping The Minister of War totally oblivious with any problems associated with 1 or 2 above. Certain temporary measures for survival ie classy jewellery, fur coats, even stylish expensive high heeled shoes the same colour as the car will help. Also when under intense interrogation sincere statements like "I bought it for you, or I only bought it because I wanted a car as elegant as you ..." are essential. The Rust. Wheel arches chrome are available. You need to get them on fast before your Minister of War starts asking questions The Sills. As she approaches the car for one of the many lovely picnic type drives in the English countryside, point up and she'll look "Oh what a wonderful Robin, plane, cloud..." Naturally you will open the door for her. Under no circumstances should you attempt to dig out the filler and allow her to see real picture .. Now financing the rust repairs. If you are a tradesman you can hide a good proportion under replacement of tools etc. If you are an accountant you will know how to cook the books. Under no circumstances announce the cost of panel and paint repairs to the Minister. Always yap out things like " good grief this car has just jumped in value or what a superb finish this door handle has etc." Omar will no doubt be along soon to assist in regards to Essential Factors Purtinent To Handling Minister of War. He is our expert on the matter and has so far pulled off some brilliant capers and I am still studying his habits. Mechanically: CHANGE THE COOLANT UNLESS YOU HAVE DOCUMENTED PROOF ITS BEEN CHANGED IN THE LAST YEAR. ALSO get a High Rate Discharge Test done on the battery and replace if necessary. Thereafter start reading everything you can about the car on this forum because you really need to make certain the car never fails to proceed when SWMBO is present. Good Luck (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 1971 Registered: 04-2009 |
Dear Steven, Welcome to our world of mad people who all have different ways of balancing our cars Vs the Minister of Interior. Sometimes the Minister of Interior also doubles up as the minister of War. That lucky Australian Soviet only has a cat to nag him - he ditched all the ministers over the years. These cars are like any other car but much better built. My focus would be the hydraulics. This sometimes daunts people and you need to know that it is just simple science and Engineering. No magic an no smoke or mirrors. When I bought my first Rolls-Royce people were duped into thinking that the hydraulics are complex and dangerous and are best kept to the experts. The same goes for air conditioning. You will need a crash course on the hydraulics. Its not complex but you need to know the fundamentals of how it all works for you to be able to give this system the respect it deserves. Your life and the life of others depends on this. | |||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 233 Registered: 10-2009 |
Stephen, has anyone pointed you towards www.rrtechnical.info ? This is part of this huge source of good information. It is all there. Alan D. | |||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 665 Registered: 10-2008 |
Stephen, following Alan's suggestion, T1 Topics make excellent reading and I consider them the Rolls Royce Bible. Best of luck, I have run Shadows , Spirits and Mulsannes as daily drivers for 22 years and despite the odd breakdown have never regretted a minute ."She Who Must Be Obeyed" helps with maintenance, flatting bodywork trim etc. For a Wedding gift I bought her a pair of overalls- 35 Years ago ! Mark | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hello All, Thank you for your messages and advice much appreciated. I have attached a picture of my Rolls. I must admit that I have become quite smitten with it. It is just so elegant I feel like I have saved it from the clutches of the breakers yard, but I guess we all need parts to keep our cars alive. Unfortunately, the filler is more than ironing out imperfections. They bought out the whole company. But I'm going to worry about that in due course and work on the electrics. If anyone has a list of "what fuses go in which slot on the fuse board" it would be very helpful as all I can find is reams of wiring diagrams and a list of "Bulbs and locations in the car". I guess this is about the only plus of current situation around the world that lockdown means time to work on the car without having to be dragged shopping or visiting family. Which usually happens at the most inappropriate moment. Sorry, darling, I'm self-isolating in the workshop! Save lives..work on the Rolls!   | |||
| Jeff Martin New User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 22 Registered: 07-2018 |
The photo size/file size of the car is so small it can't be seen. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2020 |
Another picture of my car. I have removed the vented chrome hub caps for refurbishment.  Stephen - you can post images with a maximum width of 800 pixels at a resolution of 300dpi, this corresponds to an image width of 6.77cm. Your image is 640 x 320 pixels at a resolution of 96dpi which does not allow uploading and viewing in fine detail which is often needed for preparing responses to any questions requiring comment. . | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2020 |
 The tip of the iceberg... | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3654 Registered: 04-2003 |
Stephen, You might find the attached guide to posting images on the forum useful:
 | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 604 Registered: 05-2016 |
If you open the 2 screws on the knee roll beneath the glove compartment on the passenger side you should find the fuse board. Below the fuse board there should be a placard with a diagram showing what each fuse is for and the individual fuse amp ratings. If that placard is missing I can assist you by describing each fuse location if necessary but unfortunately I don't know how to post a copy of the fuse board layout. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1344 Registered: 11-2015 |
Stephen, Welcome aboard. The car looks good. You will not be disappointed with the Shadow, it's a great car. My advice is prioritize exactly what it will take to get the car on the road, then put it on the road. Then put it on the road. Running cars get worked on wisely to keep the car on the road. Cars disassembled in the back of a garage sit for years. When I got mine, it was stale gas, cooling hoses wheel bearings, brakes, and lights. I did paint it before registering it but only because when I was done with the essential items there was still salt on the roads and I couldn't drive it anyway. | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2199 Registered: 05-2012 |
Hi Stephen and welcome. In addition to Larry's comments I add a couple of photos. The first pic shows the fusebox lowered with the diagram tray pulled out. On my car (1974 - LHD) there is just one knurled knob that needs to be undone to drop the fusebox.   Geoff | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2200 Registered: 05-2012 |
After re-reading Larry's comments it occurs to me the UK models may be very different to the US models, in which case please disregard my entry. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 605 Registered: 05-2016 |
Thanks Geoff, I think Stephen's car is a later model Silver Shadow 11 with the fuse box on the passenger side. I have downloaded a jpg image of the fuse diagram tray posted originally by Brian Vogel but I haven't a clue about how to transfer that image onto this site as I'm from an age before the internet was even invented. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 606 Registered: 05-2016 |
I think I've just worked out how to share the later fuse card image if Stephen could send me a private message so I will have his email address and may be able to post it to him. | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 607 Registered: 05-2016 |
OK, I've sent the jpg image to Ross Kowalski since I know his email address (at least I think I have done), maybe if Ross receives it he will have the technological knowhow to post it to this thread. | |||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 1973 Registered: 04-2009 |
 Got this from the net. Poor resolution. My Wraith II is in the shop right now thats why I cant take a photo of it and simply post it | |||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 340 Registered: 07-2012 |
Stephen, As guys say there is a lot of info about through RROC AU. You need to quote chassis number as these cars differ a lot between early Shadow 1, late Shadow 1 and the big jump to Shadow11. Just read the official manual in Technical section, it is REALLY informative, giving theory and then guide how to remove/strip units. Start with brakes/hydraulics. Don't forget there is quite a lot on YOU TUBE and if you type in Bentley Heritage, there is free site with manuals, service bulletins and spares cat. Good luck | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 608 Registered: 05-2016 |
Ross has informed me that my fuse box picture unfortunately didn't arrive to him. I can't find a way to post it but I can describe all the fuse locations and amperage if required. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 6 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi thank you Geoff. I have the card as you have. But it says on the bottom use correct fuse rating and refer to handbook. Helpful as chocolate teapot. Numbering 1-14 is useless. I have purchased a used handbook but not arrived yet. Rolls seem to make sensible things difficult. Why not put rating instead of a number. Same as bulb list. Bit frustrating as seems simples. Thanks again guys for your help. Steve | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 609 Registered: 05-2016 |
Hi Steve, If your car has the earlier fuse panel then you can get details of the fuses in the technical library at the bottom of the main menu on this forum site. TSD2476 is the manual and a fuse board diagram is illustrated in chapter M, page M5. You may need to enlarge the screen to read the small print on the fuse chart. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 7 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi all. Thank you again for all your help. I think. It is a late model 33009 vin, 1978. I will take pic of fuse board. Just purchased some original bulgin fuses as well as selection box. Some fuses are missing hence no idea what was rating of fuses. I'm going to replace blown bulbs with led ones. Don't know how successful that is. As suggested I'm going to concentrate on getting her on the road. Fortunately it was only stored for a relatively short time. But it's having a complete engine service at a vintage specialist. Once I have done electrics I'm going to get a friend give it a pre mot. As owns mot garage. So I will have a list of issues. Sort of method in my madness. My plan is to drive it at least once a week and use it. That's what they were made for to drive. Thanks again for all your help much appreciated | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 610 Registered: 05-2016 |
Ok Stephen, If you can post a picture of the fuse board and assuming it is similar to mine (SRH37125)I should be able to tell you what fuse number serves what purpose and what the amperage each fuse should be. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1345 Registered: 11-2015 |
Larry sent this image which I split in two so as to keep it readable.   | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 611 Registered: 05-2016 |
That's perfect Ross, thanks, Larry | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 615 Registered: 05-2016 |
Must add that the fuse layout card above is accredited to Brian Vogel's post of some years ago. Thanks Brian. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 8 Registered: 03-2020 |
Thanks again everyone. I have finally started to look at front windows and central locking. Worried as wires not even connected to one switch. The car now has a new name.. "Christine". . | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 11 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi guys, does anyone know the spec/size details of the dashboard facia screws on SS2. Previous owner.. used screws to hold dash wood work. Can anyone advise me of dimensions etc of correct stainless steel flat headed bolts. Who in their right mind would use oversized horrendous screws that don’t even fit the holes and stick out in a beautiful piece of wood veneer!! Thanks guys | |||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 607 Registered: 11-2017 |
Dash screws are oval head, not flat. I have seen cars with Pozidrive and some chrome slotted. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 18 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi guys, Well the next issue looms. The two compartment hydraulic oil tank under the bonnet. 1st compartment no problem. 2nd compartment empties pretty much immediately from a leak in front of driver side rear wheel arch. Brakes seem to work, but not sure what 2nd compartment feeds. I’m guessing rear suspension. Looks to be a leaking pipe.. loathed to experiment too much as RR special fluid expensive and more difficult to source. Any suggestions advice.. thank you for support guys | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3053 Registered: 06-2009 |
If that chamber (which does serve the height control system, as well as brakes, is emptying that fast it should be abundantly obvious where the leak is located, as anything between a waterfall or massive spray, depending on the size of the hole in the line, should occur. When you are in a situation like this never use RR363, as you're literally throwing money away. For the diagnostic part I'd use straight DOT3 fluid, as you aren't going to be driving, and you're not going to be using it long enough for any damage to occur. If you're uncomfortable with that, use YAK363 (90% DOT3/10% castor oil), for your diagnostic period. But don't use RR363 until you're ready for your final fill and bleed process. And when you go to replace your hard lines, I can highly recommend cunifer (copper-nickle-iron) brake line rather than the original mild steel. It's much easier to work with and it doesn't corrode. Brian | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 19 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Brian, Thank you for your advice. Is it fairly straight forward job to replace the pipes?. Unfortunately I don't have an inspection pit and worry being such a heavy car ramps is not a good idea. Are the easy enough to get too? I'm guessing you buy the pipe and cut it to length? Thanks again Stephen | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3054 Registered: 06-2009 |
Stephen, The answer when it comes to working on the hydraulics and brakes on these cars is that it can be dirt simple or hellishly difficult, and mostly depending on whether what you're trying to get to is easy to access or not. Until you know the source of your leak, it's hard to say how easy or hard the repair will be. Some of the lines across the rear crossmember are not fun to deal with, but you could have a leak in an ancient hose or because one of the hoses is not connected correctly. There are just too many possibilities. Once you determine where the issue is, an "easy versus hard," statement is easier to make. Now, to be the contrarian. I have used ramps for working on all my cars, including the RRs, and for years. These cars are not heavier than the weight limits for any of a number of commercially available ramps, and plastic ones at that, only used to elevate one end. I have also used jack stands and a lift (borrowed someone else's garage). The key to safety is NOT loading more weight on whatever your lifting device of choice is than it is rated to hold. The current set of ramps I have is actually from Harbor Freight, and the design of same is safer, in my opinion, than the Rhino Ramps I had (and destroyed because I stupidly tried to drive my partner's truck on to them too quickly - it was a new-to-me vehicle at the time and I wasn't good at modulating "climb speed," and that's my fault). You also always need to give "challenge shoves" to the car once it's on the ramps or jack stands, or once just off the ground on the lift, to ensure it is not going to shift "unexpectedly" and potentially (and probably) kill you. I was never more nervous than when I first started working under these cars, and the engine end in particular, when I had the car up on jack stands. After sufficient time, practice, and developing my standard safety checks before the car was jacked up and after the load was on the stands, it became second nature. I was (and still am not) cavalier, ever, but I'm no longer chewing my nails when I have to work under cars/trucks, period. But knowing what you're doing, then checking what you've done, as far as elevating the vehicle and that it's stable once it's there is a life and death matter. Don't get sloppy, ever. You do buy the brake line, cut it to length, and flare the ends as needed for the connections involved. If you're doing this off the car it's remarkably easy. It gets trickier if you need to do some of the flaring "in place" or close to it, but it's still not impossible. There have got to be multiple posts from me from the period when I was replacing some of the brake lines on SRH33576. Brian | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 22 Registered: 03-2020 |
Well, having another frustrating day with Christine. Found the hydraulic pipe issue. Complete cracked pipe driver rear wheel arch. So decided to make note to add on list. Decided to try to start her up. After a number of attempts and doing a basil fawlty.. Swearing that if didn't start it was breakers yard it did start. Took out for usual drive. Scaring everyone in the neighbourhood. So on return decided to make a start and found that air intake pipe not sealed at filter assembly joint and that choke stove pipe broken at joint to exhaust/engine. Correcting these two still wouldn't start again. The left carb pot dip stick comes completely out of housing not fixed in and the metal intake connector between the two carb pots seems to have no inner seal? Is this correct?. My next move is to repair stove choke pipe and carb dipstick. Then replace all spark plugs, then leads (as seem to be different makes) and see if it starts and runs any better. It has been quite frustrating as soon as one issue fixed another appears. It's been a long day and starting to think maybe bitten off more than I can chew with this one. I'm reluctant to travel far in case it stalls and I can't start it. It is so unreliable. With non starter issues having already replaced the battery it is onto sparks and ignition. It just seems a number of issues for non starting. Even when started putting her into gear without revs it stalls. It hates standing it just stalls. It maybe a case of storing it for a few months until have funds to go in for service and review... Steve | |||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2326 Registered: 09-2004 |
Common fault when hot is the Opus system failing let it cool and starts ok. Close air gap to see if it improves if it does then replace the distributor unit. Will only get worse if not dealt with. BTW, Jim Walters knows all about them! | |||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 389 Registered: 03-2012 |
Stephan did any of your problems start when you replaced the battery, did you by like for like | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 23 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Hubert. Thank you for getting in contact. It was like it before the new battery. I actually purchased the correct type of battery as the one with it was huge and did not fit the housing and was over kill. Went for a yuasa 5000 as recommended type. It is much better as it turns over the engine easier. I think overall it's just a case of lack of maintenence and love. The car had been basically left to rot. Although it did pass a motor test mot before it was stored. All very frustrating as tbh I don't know where to start. Regards Stephen | |||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 390 Registered: 03-2012 |
As Patrick mentioned I to had to replace Opus Ignition, but the old dash pots let symptoms continue, till same... cleaned. To be honest Stephen it will probably take 6 months before you trust the car, well that's the way it worked with me... With me 1 brakes stuck on ..recon same 2 ignition problems. .replaced ignition flying spares approx 180 St, symptoms continued, new coil dis cap etc but dash pots were the problem Not sure if my first purchase of new battery fried opus ignition? . Anyways she run fine now fingers crossed . .. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 24 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Hubert & Patrick. I think in going to strip out the ignition. Replace sparks, leads and coil. Then look at distrib cap and clean out dash pots and see if this helps. I love driving the car but just need to take it off the road and bite the bullet. Hopefully it isn't the ignition but wouldn't surprise me add it to the list. Anyone know winning lotto numbers think I'm gonna need the money! | |||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 391 Registered: 03-2012 |
Stephen I'd clean dash pots first, clean spark plus, clean dis cap rotor arm ensure good flow of petrol to carbs This is all your car may need to run correctly. As sticking dash pots make car run horrendously If you think Morris Minor re above to simplify ie fuel spark air, when we think Rolls we sometime think complicated. | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3057 Registered: 06-2009 |
Having lived through the "on road sudden death" of the Lucas Opus ignition, I can sympathize, and as Patrick has mentioned, the failure virtually always exhibits itself only after the car is hot. I was able to drive mine home a couple of miles at a time, park it and let it cool down, then start all over again. See the long topic: A Christmas FTP!! . . . While I did replace the ignition, and that's always an option, it can be rebuilt, and I believe several folks that frequent the forum have used these instructions for doing so: Repairing and Modifying the Lucas Opus Ignition 35DE8 Module [Note: I did not write these, but did archive them on my Google Drive just in case they were to disappear from the internet. The source URL is shown, if memory serves, and checking out that site is worth doing.] But, all of the above having been said, Hubert Kelly is right. Try the easy and obvious things FIRST. Brian | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 25 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Brian. Thank you for your message. I had left the car in the garage for two weeks without starting. So expected pay back. Took ages to start, but took it out for 15mile drive as usual it was like driving an old Ford diesel tractor. About 3 miles from home stopped at junction and it stalled. After 5mins of cooling down started again drove home and into my workshop. 1 hour later tried to start, not a hope in hell. What sort of costs involved replacing ignition? Just to add to list of faults.. Thank you again Stephen | |||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3058 Registered: 06-2009 |
Stephen, Most people replace the Opus with any one of several readily available electronic ignition modules. Search these forums and you'll find several lengthy threads on the topic. For myself, I'd seriously consider going the rebuilding route, as you know that if it works, there are not other complications that come with the module replacement process. Brian | |||
| John Charles Unregistered guest Posted From: 195.12.48.218 |
Steven. I did not see your car when it was local to me but from descriptions I have heard I would suspect that somewhere there is a leak in the vacuum pipes or the fuel weakener system is not working. When the car is running try spraying some brake cleaner on the vacuum pipes that you can see. Any change in engine note will indicate said problem with the pipes. (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 26 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi John I have been working on the car most days since not working. I am going to look at ignition system today and will try your suggestion. Happy with most things, this is just quite frustrating as dare not drive to far away from home as might get stuck. Hoping to get the thing running better today Thank you Stephen | |||
| John Charles Unregistered guest Posted From: 92.119.176.22 |
Stephen. As you may have guessed, we have met each other, I am not far away from you, Green Shadow 11, and I am quite happy for you to try parts I have as spares, if that will help, save you buying parts that may not be necessary. I have a Shadow 11 for parts as well. I have most of the parts for the OPUS ignition system. If you are interested, I think I can get your Phone No. and will get in touch. John. (Message approved by david_gore) | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 27 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi John Great to talk to you. It would be great to catch up. I have removed the air intake housing this morning and it is filthy and seal missing. Someone pulled it forward a broke the choke stove pipe off its connection. So no connection to engine. No seal and intake pipe loose is all a factor. No wonder it won't start! I have a general email address which is Sjbardwell@gmx.co.uk if you wish to get in touch and I will give you a call. I hope this is acceptable to the forum. Best wishes Stephen | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3716 Registered: 04-2003 |
Stephen, No need to worry about requesting and organising contact with like-minded members - our forum encourages member contact to share information and advice about keeping R-R/B vehicles in best possible condition and using them on a regular basis. There is also forum facility for sending private messages to other members when deemed appropriate, however, my personal preference is for all information to be published wherever possible for everyone's benefit. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1417 Registered: 11-2015 |
John C, That is a good way to find leaks. I wouldn't use brake clean as it tends to produce nasty fumes out the tailpipe. Stephen, The words "don't be discouraged" are not of any use. Here's some that might be. 1. Make and keep a list. There's a reason this is number one. 2. Keep the car on the road as much as possible. 3. Decide on your goal. Restoring a car to original specs is different than building a driver. 4. Reach out to local people who can help. See my Edsel radiator post. 5. Diagnose first, then repair. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1418 Registered: 11-2015 |
Stephen, Thinking about it, maybe post your current list. That might help. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 28 Registered: 03-2020 |
Thank you guys. We took a look at the issues. My first thought in summary is to get the engine running correctly if this is not possible or just riduliously expensive it would be a no brainer. But once again it goes back to past owners and lack of tlc and basic maintenance and I expect many of you know were I am coming from. The infamous bodge job. The stove choke pipe was broken at connection to manifold. To correct it previous owners stuffed a piece of copper tubing inside broken pipe. Reducing the air flow. The new copper pipe had come out of the fitting. Had not even been connected and broken pipe was still inside the fitting. The spark plug cables were not in correct firing order to distributor cap. The fuel pump was not wired correctly. Rubber seal missing at Air intake. Fluctuations on choke. So the methodical approach is definitely working. I am hoping that the engine can be redeemed. Although this is only the tip of the iceberg. I am very grateful for an expert's knowledge and work he has put in. I have been watching and learning about the engine. For the future | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 29 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Ross, Wow the list... Not including engine issue 1 rear hydraulic suspension not working 2 second hydraulic reservoir empties immediately 3 hand brake doesn't work 4 front right suspension spring broken? 5 blower and aircon not working 6 rust in all usual places 7 paintwork 8 front electric seats both click but no movement 9 central locking doesn't work 10 boot seal rotten 11 possible brake shoes need replacing.. Possible discs - inspection required. 12 exhaust needs welding on pipe by mounting block On the bright side.. Windows all work, all lights work, radio, cassette and gearbox seems OK.. Stephen | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3720 Registered: 04-2003 |
Stephen, From one who has already been down the road you are now travelling with a similarly abused Corniche that was imported from the UK by my then father-in-law to minimise the onerous import duties that applied here in the 1980's. My advice from hard-won experience is to prioritise your repairs starting with the items essential to having the car able to be driven and registered for road use. Everything else can come later when finances and time permit but be prepared for an occasional unexpected problem requiring immediate attention to occur. Leave any cosmetic items unless more difficulties will arise if they are not rectified promptly e.g. rust issues from water leaks/body damage etc. Being able to drive your car regularly will both give you enjoyment and encouragement to continue restoration as circumstances permit. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1430 Registered: 11-2015 |
Stephen, 2,3,and 11 seem like actual problems, 4,6,12,and 1 seem more like work. I'm not so sure about 1 being work or a problem. 10,7,5,8,9 could be handeled later. The blower part of 5 might be MOT for all I know but I would want that either way. MOT ITEMS 2 second hydraulic reservoir 3 hand brake doesn't work 11 possible brake shoes need replacing.. Possible discs - inspection required. 4 front right suspension spring broken? 6 rust in all usual places 12 exhaust needs welding on pipe by mounting block 1 rear hydraulic suspension not working NON MOT ITEMS 10 boot seal rotten 7 paintwork 5 blower and aircon not working 8 front electric seats both click but no movement 9 central locking doesn't work | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2215 Registered: 05-2012 |
1 - rear hydraulic suspension - blank off at the rat-trap and put it right at the bottom of your list - it is not required. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3721 Registered: 04-2003 |
Geoff, "1 - rear hydraulic suspension - blank off at the rat-trap and put it right at the bottom of your list - it is not required." IMHO this suggestion depends on how the car is used:- Yes for a single driver and passenger with no luggage or other load in the boot/trunk No for a driver, front seat passenger with a loaded boot/trunk and for a vehicle with rear seat passengers regardless of whatever is in the boot/trunk. The reason for this is to reduce wear on the rear half shaft universal joints from these shafts operating in a non-horizontal orientation due to suspension loads greater than the springs capability to keep the drive shafts horizontal whilst the car is in motion. Cars fitted with the "colonial" heavy duty springs are less likely but not immune to excessive wear caused by non-horizontal drive shafts. . | |||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2216 Registered: 05-2012 |
Hi David I totally agree with you. I was addressing my remarks to Stephen's car, although they also apply to anyone carrying out a rolling restoration, as I am, and is almost always a single driver with passenger, as you mentioned. Stephen's car needs so much work to get it safely on the road, blanking off the hydraulic self leveling system would free him from having to overhaul the height control valve, rams, roll restrictor valve, restrictor valves, solenoid valve and also remove any possibility of leaks from this system. He can then carry out the work at a later date. I note from the picture of Stephen's car the rear springs will need replacing - the rear appears to be quite low (from the pic). Since I mentioned I was carrying out a rolling restoration, it is very much a case of improvements rather than a complete bottom up restoration. My next major job will be to get the reservoir re-plated, which will coincide with the next brake fluid change. Two pics below of my car, with my son.   | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 30 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Ross, David and Geoff, Thank you for your advice and input. I bought the car for my own pleasure. So unlikely to be lots of weight in the back or boot. We now seem to have the engine issue sewn up. I totally agree that the cosmetics can definitely be put to one side for now. Once we have ticked the engine off its brakes, then suspension. Safety first. Think I have a crash helmet somewhere! My plan is to do fluids change. Oil, coolant for a start. So I have a fresh start. Whilst on the ramp look at underside, general poke about, look at condition of brake discs and shoes. Then put together a plan of action Stephen | |||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 395 Registered: 03-2012 |
Stephen... the hand brake on these cars at best.. ain't so hot , .. If linkage/ cables are all good the brakes are simple enough to adjust. I think flying spares have done video on same. I'd also leave the rear height control system for another day far far into the future. .. I'd get a mechanic to replace the spring , to much work. Have ya thought of putting car through the MOT just to see what else they might highlight. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1431 Registered: 11-2015 |
Stephen, Oh, to be running light.  I was doing some work for a friend this afternoon. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3723 Registered: 04-2003 |
Ross, Did you look in the back of my property maintenance work vehicle for inspiration? It always looks similar except being a station wagon body on a 4WD chassis [Toyota 4Runner], there is a lot more clutter present in the form of numerous tool boxes, power tools, building materials and other "essential" items deemed useful "just in case they might be needed". Suffice to say, 9 times out of 10 there is always something that should have been included but wasn't!!  | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1432 Registered: 11-2015 |
David G, You have to post pictures. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3724 Registered: 04-2003 |
Will do when I go back to Sydney next week. Still staying in semi-isolation in the country as I am in a reduced immunity risk category but have medical specialist consultations early July in Sydney so have to face going there. I am expecting a "second wave" of a Covid virus mutation to hit in the near future as the current restrictions continue to be eased. | |||
| ross kowalski Prolific User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 1433 Registered: 11-2015 |
David, Don't do anything unsafe to get a picture. Also, we are experiencing resurgences across the USA right now. | |||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3725 Registered: 04-2003 |
Ross, I live by a very relevant proverb:- "If you cannot be good, be careful!!" Despite Australia's relative success in keeping our Covid cases to a very low level; there are signs the much predicted 2nd wave may be rearing its ugly head as I write this especially in Victoria. This resurgence is occurring at the same time our formerly strict community restrictions are being relaxed. Perhaps a warning to others elsewhere in the world who think Covid 19 restrictions are unnecessary. . | |||
| Trevor Hodgekinson Experienced User Username: wm20 Post Number: 181 Registered: 11-2006 |
FWIW I would replace the boot seal first. If not pay very close attention to the boot drain holes I have a Bentley here that has not been touched for 5 years and just noticed a while back the entire rear section has rusted through which will be a horrendously expensive repair as body panel replacement is not in my skill set . As for batteries ( A bit late I know ) the only thing that will ever go in any one of my vehicles are the Optima spiral cell batteries They have a very high CCA because of the low internal resistance and massive plate area Being PVR & AGM they are mechanically industructable and hold a full charge for well over a year. BAck when I had visions of relaunching the wedding car service so I religiously started every car every month and could do 8 hard cold starts from a single battery no problems. And of course they fit in the standard RR battery box but you need to modify the hold down strap | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 33 Registered: 03-2020 |
The engine now runs and fairly responsive...here comes the but. On a recent trip at about 50mph the car starts to slow down and judders. Having pulled into the nearest lay-by . I took stock. I’m still not 100% confident in the car. The judder was as if I was going over the white lines at the side of the carriage way. But it wasn’t. This is the first time this has happened and it did it constantly on my way home if drove at more than 49 - 50mph. I think it’s brakes, my next project and put rubber inserts to heighten cars sagging rear end.. Any thoughts? Steve | |||
| Hubert Kelly Frequent User Username: h_kelly Post Number: 401 Registered: 03-2012 |
Stephen, it's definitely not imbalance in wheels or loose wheel studs?. The reason I ask , symptoms arise at a specific speed.. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 34 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Hubert, Thanks it’s on my list. Due to the saggy butt..the car not mine..it’s rear wheels are slightly angled in.. I won’t mention the front hubs.. Beginning to feel better cars in a breakers yard... | |||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2055 Registered: 04-2009 |
I wonder If what you are observing is the classic vibration associated with the drive shafts being used at an angle they are not used to operating under. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 35 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Omar, Is the drive shaft problem due to the cars saggy rear?. I think looking side on the old girl has about a two-three inch sag. If it is the case it answers the problem and means I need to move forward with rubber spacers in the rear suspension coils. I would love to hear from anyone who has done this and details of spec needed and uk supplier. I don’t think I’m going to get hydraulic system working. Thank you for thoughts, much appreciated Steve | |||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 2057 Registered: 04-2009 |
Dear Stephen, Certainly the rear of the car being lower has resulted in many of us reporting vibrations from the drive shafts. When the same cars were level again - the vibrations went away. It is difficult for us to diagnose the noise you are referring to but it is likely due to the rear end being low. Read the threads on drive shaft vibrations and see if anything rings a bell with you. I have never put spacers in the springs because for me the height control has to work or I simply dont drive the car. I have plenty more cars to drive instead. I hope you sort out the problem and good luck. Omar | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 646 Registered: 05-2016 |
On my Silver Shadow 11 I have used Grayston GE14 20-36mm coil spring assisters purchased from Amazon.co.uk and they helped in lifting the rear to normal level. I had to jack up the rear with the wheels off the ground to extend the springs and then heated the Grayston spring assisters in warm water and used dishwashing liquid to slide them into place which was a bit of a struggle but persistence paid off. I think the car rides better since I fitted them approx. 4 years ago. | |||
| Stephen Bardwell New User Username: cobard71 Post Number: 36 Registered: 03-2020 |
Hi Larry I looked back at your post on the forum very helpful! And found the description and purchased a pair. I need to remove the rear calipers clean, paint, new pads and new flexo hoses so will do the Greyson bit whilst working on theses things. Hopefully this will sort out brakes and suspension in one hit. Lol who am I kidding! Steve | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 647 Registered: 05-2016 |
check that your lower spring seats on the suspension trailing arms are sound and that the water drain holes are unobstructed by crud as this is an area on the Silver Shadow that is prone to rust and many have had new replacement spring seats welded into place. I've read somewhere of a case where a lower spring seat gave way and a spring was seen in the rear view mirror bouncing along the road. Also, if your drive shafts have become worn due to the incorrect drive angle the wear usually only happens on the drive side of the splines so interchanging the two drive shafts with each other usually cures that problem (unless they have already been interchanged previously). | |||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 648 Registered: 05-2016 |
If your calliper pistons are rusty and need to be replaced it's probably a good idea to go for the stainless steel ones made by Kelly Opfar at Britishtoolworks in Utah but post from the USA might be a bit slow due to the virus. |
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