Author |
Message |
Harry Kuurio
Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio
Post Number: 34 Registered: 4-2004
| Posted on Monday, 30 May, 2005 - 10:36 pm: | |
Hi all, I'm in trouble. Trying to find a replacement for the original CAV AC58/12/53 -type alternator, all parts suppliers are shaking their heads. No go. Cross reference books are no use, and their books do not recognise RR at all! Anyone; could you please dig out the type of that 108 amp AC Delco - maybe it can be found on the alternator? I'm in Europe. Harry
|
Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 417 Registered: 9-2004
| Posted on Monday, 30 May, 2005 - 11:23 pm: | |
Harry why do you need a new or replacement,your unit can be rebuilt at most auto electrical centres or at a good local garage with some test and service gear. |
Harry Kuurio
Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio
Post Number: 35 Registered: 4-2004
| Posted on Tuesday, 31 May, 2005 - 05:37 am: | |
Pat, Well, you're right, don't really NEED a new one, but thought that a new more powerful and modern alternator would not have done any harm... Since it's getting a little tedious to get hold of that AC Delco, maybe I'll just service the old one. Had the same thought today. Harry |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 790 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, 31 May, 2005 - 06:03 am: | |
Harry, Albers are in the USA. There are far cheaper outlets in the UK in general, but maybe Albers will sell you a kit at a realistic price. Why not email them an enquiry ? I know your dislike of Lucas stuff. To be fair, Lucas starters and alternators are as good as any brand. I have had more trouble with Bosch and Delco alternators, and my Nippondenso starter packed it in a few weeks ago. They were supposed to last forever. The Lucas starter and alternator in our T have never been touched. However, I did replace the regulator as the meter was unstable for a while, only to find that it had been physically damaged during a vehicle service. What's really useful with the Nippondenso starter over the Lucas is that the ND will crank even when the battery is almost dead. If you are hellbent on changing, Delco is a good choice. Don't throw the Lucas away or trade it as a core as they are becoming very valuable. Practically any Delco will do if the physical size is similar. 85A or higher is nice to have, but not really necessary unless you keep a deep freeze and heated cowshed in the boot. I realise that you must drive around with the headlamps on at all times in Finland, but even then I wouldn't get too excited about the alternator capacity. Let's hope that someone advises a suitable Delco series, then you can mail order one. I suspect that a Delco 12SI with 110A capacity would be ideal. Alternators are dirt cheap in the USA, so it's a good country to shop. A brand new Delco will cost around just US$100, and exchange rebuilt ones $30. It's all done by mail order. If you have a decent drill and a heavy vice, you can readily make up custom brackets yourself, or modify the Delco brackets from a wreck. There are universal adaptor kits available in the USA for $30 as well. The pulley is the trickier bit: you may need to have it line bored to suit a Delco shaft, or even possibly sleeved and bored, plus cut a keyway. I have never done a swap on a Crewe car, but have done on several others to replace the generator. It's not a very challenging job, and with brilliant access it must be straightforward on a Shadow. More useful, however, is a heavy duty battery with 120AH or so, and a high cranking current of 600A. RT. Have a look at this link for ideas. http://www.mntriumphs.org/Tech_Info/Delco_Alternator_Conversion.pdf#search='Lucas%20Delco%20Alternator'
|
Mark Herbstreit
New User Username: mark_herbstreit
Post Number: 2 Registered: 5-2005
| Posted on Thursday, 02 June, 2005 - 12:20 am: | |
This is for the benefit of all Shadow II and T2 owners who are about to throw away perfectly good CAV alternators. There is a temp sensor in the battery box behind the battery that is supposed to switch the voltage regulator to a lower charge rate in extreme temperature conditions (I think from memory below 0 c and above 35c). The problem is it can fail in the low setting. Move the battery out of the way and reapply power with some jumper cables. With the engine running check the battery voltage with a multimeter. If it is around 13V the device has probably failed. If you disconnect the center (earth) of the sensor, the voltage should jump to above 14v. The device is located in the top left hand corner of the battery box (arrowed) of RHD cars. (The layout may be slightly different in LHD cars). This sensor was only used in the Shadow II era.
|
Peter Colwell
New User Username: peter_colwell
Post Number: 8 Registered: 3-2005
| Posted on Thursday, 02 June, 2005 - 06:15 am: | |
Poor old Joe Lucas does cop a lot of flack. Some may be deserved, especially as Japanese electricals made a giant leap forward in the seventies. But some time ago I read an article which indicated that many popular jet engines used in today's passenger jets use a whole range of Lucas products in some very important areas. Personally I get some satisfaction from attending to a Lucas distributor, cleaning and tuning, and then listening to the smooth result. Peter |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 793 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 02 June, 2005 - 06:27 am: | |
Thanks, Peter. I thought I was the lone piper in the wind. RT. ps: the short run of Japanese Motorola alternators in the SZs from chassis 9,634 to 16,930 was not exactly flash. Or did they flash too often ? It was hastily replaced by a US Delco alternator from chassis 20,000. God Save the Lucas. |
Bill Coburn
Grand Master Username: bill_coburn
Post Number: 432 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 02 June, 2005 - 09:19 am: | |
I have found two Motorola alternators that had the quaint habit of heating the regulators in the back of their casing to the point where the wax like substance in which they were embedded melted and dribbled over the lower radiator hose. The units were replaced and they did the same thing again. Apparently it is quite common, the alternators work perfectly so I choose to ignore it!! |
Harry Kuurio
Experienced User Username: harry_kuurio
Post Number: 38 Registered: 4-2004
| Posted on Thursday, 07 July, 2005 - 10:47 am: | |
Hi guys, Well I got the original Cav overhauled eventually. I'm not hellbent on changing, just got a little excited as I first thought that a good replacement was readily obtainable here in Europe. Never (or very rarely) so with RR/B's! I brought the alternator to a reputable auto electrian, and the first thing he told me was that "these old Cav's last forever, where did you find one?". He ended up changing the bearings, bushes and cleaning the thing up good by blasting. The diodes were tip-top. The alternator is isolated, by the way, for information. End result: good, original appearance. The charging is not up though, and this must be due to a bad regulator. It can be replaced with a more modern design a la Bosch or similar. I'll keep us posted. I attach some pix. Sorry about the badge being a little damaged, that's not done by me but some mechanic earlier when the car resided in Beverly Hills, CA. Most of it can be read, though. Let's keep upon this thread. Somebody may be able to inform us more about the Delco route. DH (Message edited by david_gore on July 07, 2005) |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 834 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 07 July, 2005 - 11:31 pm: | |
How about a new regulator at $50 from classicgarage.com ? http://store.yahoo.com/classicgarage/jaberoroasma.html |
|