| Author | Message | ||
     Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 712 Registered: 5-2009 |
Took the Girls out in the Wraith last evening, performed flawlessly. Returned home, parked in the drive and swept out the Car Barn, etc. When I started up to move into the Barn, she ran about 10 seconds and died; would not restart although there is typically one or two hints of a hit, but never a start, whenever She does this. After cooldown, she started right up and I moved her into the Barn with no issue. I suspect an ignition fault involving temperature, and heat soak. I think the ignition is the original Opus system, and I would rather replace it with Pertronix I think. I hate embarrassing FTPs. I will search, to see what model Pertronix is needed; the local parts Guy will get it for me but he hasn't any idea what to order. One other related issue: there HAS to be a way to test for ignition firing while cranking, when one is alone with no helper to either crank, or watch. Something I can see from behind the wheel. I know about the "start" buttons for techs to use, but it seems it would be nearly impossible to connect it to the starter when needed. I have R&R a starter on this Car and it is heck. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1658 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Randy This sounds so much like a heat soak issue. I had the same problem on my car - difficulty in starting it when hot. Replacing the viscous coupling has almost eliminated the problem but for a complete solution I am thinking of fitting Introcar's Over-Heat kit, once the summer temperatures start to kick in: https://www.introcar.co.uk/rolls-royce-bentley-models-1965-1980-c89/fuel-carburation-c33099/carburettor-components-overhaul-kits-c33106/over-heat-kit-c38578 If you fitted an in-line ignition spark tester to a plug on the B bank you might be able to see it whilst standing at the side of the car, operating the ignition switch. I have fitted a push button starter under the hood of my car (with an isolating switch). Dangerous I know, but useful. Geoff | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1779 Registered: 6-2006 |
Open the door and reach around , you can reach / see things / see test lights like that. | ||
| Martin Taylor Frequent User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 68 Registered: 7-2013 |
Just fix it and you won't be needing to test it in the dark wiring nice clothes etc, I made a plate for mine and fitted a kit designed for a rover v8, it was so cheap I carry a spare in the boot. To test for a spark simply pull off king lead, pull rubber back and hook it under a wiper blade with the end a few mm away from the metal then crank away. | ||
| Ben Curtis Experienced User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 37 Registered: 12-2015 |
I've fitted 5 or 6 of the Powerspark ones with great success to other cars. I have a strobe light on a lead, I can rest it on the wing facing the windscreen and crank from the drivers seat, so I can see if the plug is firing. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 713 Registered: 5-2009 |
Timing light-strobe: why didn't I think of that? it will indicate firing or not while cranking of course. I get frustrated with tasks which would need a helper as I so rarely have one handy. Car has failed to start a couple of times when cold, and it started practically on the bump after a 15 mile drive just before this episode so I doubt the heat soak of the carbs is the problem From reading about the likely failure modes of the OPUS module, it can be a broken solder track; who knows? If a new OPUS were available at reasonable cost I would just replace it; the Pertronix is less than half the cost though and should be OK. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2237 Registered: 6-2009 |
Randy, Go back and wade through the latter portions of the thread I started in December 2014 entitled, A Christmas FTP!! . . . I think there's a lot of material in there that will be directly applicable to your situation. My FTP, and particularly the conditions under which the car would start again, were eerily like yours and it was traced to the Lucas Opus ignition. Several regular readers here have done the Pertronix replacement. See also, Repairing and Modifying the Lucas Opus Ignition 35DE8 Module Brian | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 714 Registered: 5-2009 |
Thanks, Brian, I did just that this afternoon. The OPUS is my prime suspect. There is information on the Web that it is repairable but the easiest parh for me seems to be conversion to the Pertronix system. I willing to spend the purchase price of the Pertronix to see if in fact it is the problem. Off hand do you know if I can use my existing coil? I can buy a coil when I order the Pertronix if you so advise. Thanks! | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2238 Registered: 6-2009 |
If memory serves you can keep the coil you have. However, I'm hoping Geoff might weigh in because I believe he's done the Pertronix conversion on his SY1 car. My brain has reached its "ease of access" limit on mental lint for the day! Brian | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1660 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Brian I'm afraid I cannot help much as my car is a 1974 "points" model and so I am not familiar with the Opus unit. A year or so ago I fitted a Powerspark electronic ignition but managed to blow it up, so reverted back to points. I was running zero ohm copper HT leads at the time and this may have been the cause of the Powerspark failure. The coil on my car was 9v so I replaced it with a 12v high output coil when I installed the Powerspark (and removed the ballast resister). I do not know what rating coils the later series 2 cars use but I suspect they too are 9v as I recall your earlier discussion on Series 2 ballast resisters. Randy will have to check whether the Pertronix system requires a 12v coil. When I was looking to fit electronic ignition to my car I looked at the Pertronix system. What put me off a little is it required the user to drill a hole in the baseplate. I cannot remember the precise details but I do remember Richard saying this was a requirement. I may be wrong on this, so would be interested to hear any clarification. Geoff | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 715 Registered: 5-2009 |
My Pertronix kit arrived Friday; took about 15 minutes to install. Only question I have is: keep the coil as is and just connect black and red after clipping the Lucus module out., or revamp with a new, different coil? | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 716 Registered: 5-2009 |
Update: resumed this project this morning. I do see the ballast resistor and the wiring connections. Once I have learned enough about how to complete the connection, I will be in business. We can document this so we will be certain how to proceed with future OPUS conversions. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2242 Registered: 6-2009 |
Randy, You may be interested in what I've put together with regard to hooking up a Mallory Unilite distributor that was specifically made for Rolls-Royce cars. There was quite a bit of back and forth on these very forums before I came to the conclusions I did. Have a look at the files contained on my Google Drive in this folder: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_xapzIQjGQ6YllWel96TlpVZms?usp=sharing I suspect that between the two of us we may come up with the solution that can be used by anyone doing a conversion from the Lucas Opus with most replacement electronic distributor modules. Brian | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 717 Registered: 5-2009 |
Interesting work Brian! Thanks for sharing! My experience so far was 100% easy and satisfactory; if the instructions had been a little more specific and clear, it would have been great. I learned how ignition conversions are done in general at my employer. We were removing the old magnetos from engines and installing electronic ignitions back in the early 1980s. They just bolted in place of the magnetos; later versions triggered off the flywheels which were large enough that we drilled 360 equally-spaced holes and used a mag pickup. Literally if you can stay in time with the crank and make a spark, you have ignition. | ||
| Randy Roberson Grand Master Username: wascator Post Number: 720 Registered: 5-2009 |
Oh, I forgot: for Geoff. My install did not require any drilling nor any fitting other than soldering the red and black leads to the existing harness to the distributor. Simple enough. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1671 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Randy Thanks for the info. The pertronix unit I had did require this so I can only think I bought the wrong type or that the distributors on the earlier series 1 cars are different. In the event I returned it. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1678 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Folks Earlier in this thread I wrote: When I was looking to fit electronic ignition to my car I looked at the Pertronix system. What put me off a little is it required the user to drill a hole in the baseplate. I cannot remember the precise details but I do remember Richard saying this was a requirement. I may be wrong on this, so would be interested to hear any clarification. I have found Richard George Yeaman's original comment re: Hi Geoff I think the model you have cant be fitted direct without being modified by drilling a hole somewhere between the module and the existing hole. This is exactly what I found with the Pertronix system (LU-181a) i had. It is the reason I returned the module as I knew I had neither the tools nor the skill to carry out this job of (as I recall) essentially re-aligning the control module. It is interesting that Randy did not have to carry out this modification. Maybe the more recent modules have been upgraded to negate this procedure. I only mention this out of curiosity and in case a future reader finds the same problem with the Pertronix system. Geoff | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 739 Registered: 4-2012 |
Geoff that is correct a hit or miss affair, When Brian Vogel fitted his Power spark he posted a photo with a different fitting arrangement, his was a remove the base plate and fit the module using the two screw holes that held the base plate, I acquired one of these and I think mine is fantastic, Richard |
