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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 777
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 07:39 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,

Has anyone rebuilt, or replaced the ignition contacts inside the Shadow switchbox?

My car will lose all power momentarily on the odd occasion, and when I lightly touch the ignition key all gauges and lights start working and the car re starts (hopefully without a backfire)
This is worse when air cond is on and headlights etc etc.
The higher the load the more it can happen.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1699
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 08:07 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Yes. Fairly often.
A fiddle but doable.

Don't take all the wires and everything apart . . But DO disconnect the battery before starting work. Lol.

You should see one set of fingers that look black and sooty.

New sets are available :-)
. Roughly 65 for one terminal. :-(
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 780
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 08:51 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Paul.

I have been looking on the net for some images of what the interior looks like before I start.
But, can not find any?

Can the contacts be cleaned up?
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1700
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 09:07 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Patrick,

You can fain a little time by bending them closer, but by the time you get ut stripped out and in there you might as well do the job properly once.

The problem is that the contacts slide over a cam and wears out and get too short . . . Not that they get dirty etc so cleaning them will only make the contacts shorter.

I'm away atm but have probably got some photos on the PC I can postracized when I return.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 781
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 09:11 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Paul,

That's great advice.

Do it once and do it properly.

Will look forward to your pics upon your return.
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Jeff Young
Prolific User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 294
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 09:24 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Patrick,

http://rrb-be.blogspot.ie/2015/03/probleme-de-demarrage-avec-votre-rolls.html

(I hope your french is better than mine....)

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 460
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 10:02 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jeff...
It is, I believe, as the detective Hercule Poirot would say, "I am Belgian!"
LOL!!
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Jeff Young
Prolific User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 295
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 10:31 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

He he... "It's all greek to me." ;)

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 461
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Sunday, 18 December, 2016 - 01:08 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Yeh, too late to delete my silly comment. Referring to the website and it reminded me of Hercule's retort when thought being French. Too often my sense of humor falls flat.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 785
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 09:58 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,

Please see my translation for Jeff's link above.
application/pdf
Starting problem with your Rolls.pdf (391.4 k)
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 786
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 10:05 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My issue is different to this.

I get all lights, gauges everything as normal.

Just on the odd occasion everything blips out including gauges, and of course engine lights don't work.
Just as if I have switched off the ignition.

But tap the key, and everything will fire up again including the engine. However if you are on a downhill grade, she will backfire upon re starting LOL

Because I don't have a tacho, and I cant hear if the engine is running when the gauges fire up and I use the throttle pedal, then carry on.

First time it did it, it blew the arse out of the circular chamber in front of the drive axle.

I didn't fix it for 2 weeks, as it sounded like a GT race car, it was pretty awesome.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 787
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 10:07 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christian,

No such thing as silly comments on here mate, you are amongst friends, we all have the same (sometimes bad) sense of humour
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 788
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 19 December, 2016 - 10:17 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,

This is quite interesting.

A single image and blurb.

http://www.nsandell.com/electrics.php



Is that a set of points I can see?
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1522
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 20 December, 2016 - 01:37 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks to Jeff for the original link and Patrick for transcribing and translating it to a pdf file.

During a recent problem I had, I found that a previous owner had bypassed the starter motor relay and wired the starter solenoid direct to the switchbox. I reinstated the relay and so far have had no problems, but I do have a concern that the extra loading on the terminals in the switchbox will one day mean they will have to be replaced. This is a useful article, now downloaded to my archive.

Geoff
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h_kelly
Prolific User
Username: h_kelly

Post Number: 209
Registered: 3-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 20 December, 2016 - 04:41 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

https://youtu.be/2PIvSk-m-a8
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 792
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 20 December, 2016 - 08:12 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Interesting set of videos.

I have been searching valiantly, but there is h=just no images that I can find of a Shadow switchbox except these few.











I also stumbled upon this page.
It has some great high res reference shots of a naked shadow dash, with top roll removed as well.
Some interesting images. Just scroll down to the red jpg links.

http://www.rollsroyceforums.com/forums/26-sy-series-i-ii-1965-1980/823-restoring-my-69-silver-shadow-8.html
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1704
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Friday, 30 December, 2016 - 11:37 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The contacts come as a set of 5 which just does one connection.

They nest into each other so keep them in order.

Make sure you note where the spacers and washers etc are when you undo it. Do one set at a time if doing more than one.





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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 839
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 09:27 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This confirms my theory.
No one makes things more complicated than they need to be better than Rolls Royce.
OMG
Nearly any car from the same date from any country has ignition switches up to 1/10 of the size.

Paul, below is a standard International/ Navistar 12v ignition switch that in some trucks using petrol or Diesel engines and using up to 4 120 amp batteries.
They rarely fail, and if they do they cost about $60.

Are you able to explain why this switchbox resembles a massive amperage switch that looks like it could be used to switch on a power station?

Thanks for the awesome images Paul, you're a legend mate.

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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1705
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 10:16 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Because they can :-)

They were a slightly post war design, they last almost forever and I would put a small bet on you car having had a big bunch of keys on the key ring for a while.

They look so Rolls-Royce!

They've been using them since the 50's and I've probably only changed 10 sets of contacts. I've probably fitted more ignition switches or ignition switch parts than that on Seraphs and late Spirits . . . so I'm not that impressed with 'progress' :D

However . . .it would be nice just to plug in a new one for 60 Quid :-)
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 840
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 12:42 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Paul,

Because they can gets used a lot here

I guess for them, if it ain't broke don't fix/modify it.

Too bad they couldn't see 60 years into the future.

I have to admit, I don't think I have ever seen a switching device like this in the automotive world until I have seen these.

Oh well, we will get it right.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1706
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 07:25 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Because they can gets used a lot here. . .

Yes , it's not serious though.

They had a list of functions that needed fulfilling. No other set of switches would do what they wanted with the correct feel, look, and elegance.

I can not think of a car with a switch which does it's job with such authority and pride. It has a simple elegance and beauty that belies it's functions. Yours probably does about 10 different jobs.

It's been doing them for 50 years. . . . .and it will probably last another 50 quite merrily.

Perhaps we should all whip them out, put some electrical grease where necessary and pay homage to thir skills in over engineering.

Shame that they add 1mpg to the fuel consumption, weigh and cost the same as a small car, and tried to pop your skull when you got to sit on the middle of the bench seat or on the armrests in the front, between mummy and daddy, and se oik in a normal car halted your passage abruptly :D

LOL. Happy new year to you all.
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Jeff Young
Prolific User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 298
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 09:15 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

And the craftsmanship is a joy to behold. I just love all those little cheese-head screws, and the proper ring-terminals on the ends of the wires.

Anyway, happy new year, everyone!
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 841
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 31 December, 2016 - 10:09 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Fully understand what you are saying Paul.
Yes, you are right mate.
Nothing else would look or feel the same.

Happy, safe & healthy 2017 to all.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1528
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 02:06 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is such a useful thread. A previous owner of my car had bypassed the starter relay and was driving the starter solenoid direct from the switchbox. I've re-instated the relay but I was expecting trouble further down the line, due to the extra loading on the terminals. It's quite encouraging to read that these terminals are quite substantial and so may not have been damaged too much. It's also really useful to see all the pics and info on repairing the switchbox, should it eventually become necessary.

Happy New Year

Geoff
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 844
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 08:40 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Mine can drive for weeks without an issue.
Then it will cut out twice in 100 meters.
But I almost never have to touch the key, it will just refire on its own.
All gauges zero then fire back up, total loss of power.
So my first inspection point was my isolation switch connections in the boot, battery terminals, then starter solenoid and the connection on my new reduction drive starter. All of these were ok.

My next job is to remove my fuse panel and re do ALL plug connections. (I had an issue with intermittent parkers and clearance lights which was rectified here)

But am sure that the switchbox will require doing.

TK Motors at Mossvale offers a rebuild service, where you mail the switchbox to Garrath, he will completely rebuild it and ship it back to you.

I would like to have a go at it myself, however Paul's images are quite daunting.

I would like to sit in on a rebuild as an apprentice first.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 472
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 10:50 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick...
While my recollection of such things is getting vague with time, do you recall the thread were the engine would cut out on left turns? I wonder if it may have some relevant information or things to check? Neither do I recall if that problem was ever resolved.

P.S. Is it just the engine, or entirely everything electrical...all lights, gauges, engine, etc as if the later, that would seem to be something basic regarading power from battery, grounds, etc, rather than strictly ignition related...but I am sure this already occured to you.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1531
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 11:53 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Christian

The thread is here:

http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17000/17314.html?1477299217

The resolution of the problem may be relevant to the fault on Patrick's car, however it was not the switchbox.

Full credit to the owner for reporting back.

Geoff
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 847
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 12:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christian,
Thank you for reminding us of that thread, and you are right, I never saw the end result, thank you Geoff for supplying the link.
It's good to see a thread that starts with a frustrated owner, that ends up with a smiling & happy owner.

Christian,
Yes, my car loses everything, gauges drop dead, everything freezes in time.
Then if I tap the key, they all spring back to life and the car will even refire if we have forward movement.

Have had a few good backfires as well.
The last couple of times, I have not even had to tap the key, and it all comes back.

I did have this problem almost 12 months before the starter moter crapped it's pants, so the gear reduction starter was fitted.
All electrical contacts as described before have all been double checked. Due to the fact I tap my key and things will right themselves, really indicates an issue in this area.
I'm pretty confident with this.

I will just pull my fuse panel out and redo all plugs before I tackle the switchbox.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 475
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 03:17 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick...I'm just thinking out loud and probably will say nothing you have not considered, but short of waiting for the phantom problem to manifest itself more consistently, it would add to your supposition that the fault is in the switchbox if instead of rectifying the problem by tapping the key, you could by manipulating the key, induce the problem. Were this to happen, it would indicate almost certainly that you have found the problem without first tearing it apart just to assess. Good luck there!

.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 850
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 03:45 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That's a great idea Christian,

As I just turn the car off I have never thought about it.

I will try it as soon as I get home from my sisters place after our (still going) New Year's Eve celebrations.

Thanks for your continued input on this subject Christian.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1532
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 03:48 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick

When you lose all power, do the headlights, sidelights and panel lights go out also?

Geoff
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 851
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 04:02 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Geoff

I have to admit I don't know that one.

it hasn't been dark when it has occurred.

What I do know, is that it happens more often if I put the A/C on, and the fan on high.

If I can induce the problem as Christian suggests, I will be sure to have the lights on and check.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1533
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 04:30 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Patrick

The reason I ask is if these lights go out also, then it's not the switchbox as the lights are not wired through it. They can be turned on with the ignition off. Difficult to monitor unless you do a lot of night driving. I was going to suggest driving on sidelights during the day so you could monitor the panel lights, but of course with your bright Australian sunlight I doubt you can even see the panel lights during the day.

I'd do plenty of diagnostics before stripping the switchbox. Although the switchbox is an obvious candidate, it could also be in the unfused circuitry before the switchbox. The obvious place to look is down by the starter motor as this is where the power lead feeds up to the switchbox/ammeter, however I note you have already cleaned that area when you fitted your new starter motor. One point of weakness in that area you might have missed is where the power lead goes through a bracket bolted to the side of the subframe. On my car the rubber grommet had perished and the insulation had worn through to the actual wire. It's worth unbolting and checking, just in case you are getting momentary shorts at this point. It's interesting that the similar fault on Christopher Williams Cloud was traced to this area.

The picture below shows the bracket and it can be seen by removing the right front wheel and peering through the gap.

wire

Geoff
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 476
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 04:31 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick...
I think what Geoff is getting at is that (correct me if I err) the ignition key only turns off some of the electrics. Therefore if the power loss is total and complete including headlights and panel lights, the fault is likely elsewhere and the "touching of the key" may simply be coincidental.

There was another thread (hazy memory at work here) where the engine would not start (no power to the starter as I recall) and the fault ended up being a bad connection (fuseable link?) inside the main power line coming from the battery to the starter. If your power loss is total and absolute, much as if the battery cable were disconnected...then this may be worth checking.

P.S. I see that Geoff was writing at same time as I, and it perhaps was his thread that I recall. The point is the same...absolute power loss points to something else such as the main power feed.
.
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1534
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 04:56 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Christian

The thing is, Patrick's problem is intermittent and momentary, the worst kind of fault to trace. I like your idea of waggling the key during normal running to see if he can get the fault to occur. He could also try gently pulling at the wires around the starter motor to see if he can force the power loss that way. This is how Christopher Williams finally isolated the problem on his Cloud.

This problem needs to be solved as bump starting through an automatic gearbox can wreck it. I think the American term is push starting.

To show how elusive these wiring problems can be I have blown up the above picture and arrowed the part of the bare wire that was exposed and quite capable of leaking large amounts of current, particularly when wet. It's not obvious from a normal visual inspection.

wire1
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 852
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 01 January, 2017 - 08:54 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christian & Geoff,
Thanks so much for the input.

It's amazing the things these cars can throw up.

This momentary short you describe is very interesting.
I had exactly the same thing happen on my boat trailer.

Quite amazing that a short like this just doesn't blow fuses, like the text books say it should.

I really appreciate your ongoing interest in this.

I now have two things to look at tomorrow
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 1536
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 02:44 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

As far as I am aware, there is no fuse on the main power lead from the battery to the starter motor and from the wire that runs from the starter motor to the fusebox. This is one of the reasons I always isolate my car when I put it in the garage.

I may be wrong on this. I am no expert however in all the years I have been reading this forum and other documentation I have never read about a fusible link on these cars. I have to assume the main power leads are not fused. I'd welcome being corrected on this if I have got it wrong.

Geoff
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John Beech
Prolific User
Username: jbeech

Post Number: 147
Registered: 10-2016
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 04:33 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Christian wrote in part . . . "Patrick, While my recollection of such things is getting vague with time, do you recall the thread were the engine would cut out on left turns? I wonder if it may have some relevant information or things to check? Neither do I recall if that problem was ever resolved."

This reminded me of a mechanic note included with Tootsie whereby when executing a u-turn the engine would quit - repeatedly. Checking the primary ignition connection to the engine revealed it would move during the turn as the engine shifted on the mounts and unscrewing it and cleaning with CorrosionX resolved the issue. Hope this helps.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 853
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 04:51 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is all great info gents.

I will be checking all of these.
FYI.
My cars fault is at anytime, but mostly while just driving in a straight line has it occurred.
More so when loaded up with the A/C and fan.
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2368
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 08:01 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Geoff,

From memory I am reasonably certain DRH14434 had a fusible link on the alternator output cable but I am not certain if there was one or a thermal overload reset switch on the main battery cable as well.

I cannot give any plausible reason for not including one on the battery cable.

Patrick,

Is it possible your car has a self-restoring thermal overload cut-out switch fitted?

If you have a fluctuating battery/alternator voltage for some reason, the reduction in voltage will increase the amperage draw and consequent heat generation to a level high enough to trigger the thermal switch which then resets shortly afterwards as the switch cools down giving the fault you describe.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 855
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 08:37 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good question David.

Where would something like this be fitted?
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2370
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 09:05 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

I would fit it to the battery positive terminal to protect the entire system - this is the same reason for fitting an isolating switch to the negative battery terminal.

Others may have alternative ideas - in this case, I expect the most likely place would be somewhere in the engine bay at the end of the battery feed cable and before the connection to the starter solenoid.

After that, the only limit is your imagination.....

P.S. I think the headlights are fitted with thermal overload switches to protect the wiring system if someone installs high-power globes with high current draw. These can fail unexpectedly due to age or moisture penetration.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1707
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 09:34 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

No fusible links until quite late 80s. And they were usually deleted.

20 feet of cable can't cope with a sluggish Lucas starter so no chance with a fuse in there to . Lol.

Never have I ever wished there was one fitted.

In the fuse box is a heat wrapped bar (yellow) shifting voltage around. These have been known to crack giving intermittent power loss but I don't think wiggling the key would affect it.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 477
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Monday, 02 January, 2017 - 09:52 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Wish I could remember that other thread but it was a "won't start" issue (i.e. no juice to starter) and poster had gone thru starter, relays, etc. As I recall, the work was being done by a shop and then by serendipity the mechanic stumbled upon a wrapped connection of some sort that had corroded and was stopping the electricity past that point. Ring any bells? What about grounds, such as (I think) referenced by J Beech? If the battery ground to chassis were having issues, would that cause an intermittant power failure? Of course that would be total and complete and not simply ignition?

P.S. Since Patrick reports that the issue occurs under heavy electrical load conditions, that may be a more relevant clue. Try running with headlights and fans on all the time in the process of trying to induce the problem and determine other correlations.

.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 858
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Tuesday, 03 January, 2017 - 10:47 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

All great stuff gents,

I had planned to do this yesterday (Sunday) but we had unexpected visitors arrive from the south Coast of NSW, so cars went out the window, and drinking started.

No chance after that.
Hopefully next weekend now.

Thanks again for your ongoing support here, I have a list of things to check (and recheck things I have already checked) so hopefully a resolution soon.

Funny how I would have bet London to a brick on it being the swithchbox, but so many other good and valid suggestions.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 925
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 22 January, 2017 - 02:34 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,

Just checking and cleaning all fuses today.

Are these factory original?

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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2383
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 22 January, 2017 - 06:39 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

These are identical to the ones in DRH14434 when it was acquired by my father-in-law in the mid-1980's.

What isn't known is if these were original fuses or replacements purchased by the previous UK owners.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 926
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Sunday, 22 January, 2017 - 11:46 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi David.

All of mine look like this.

It would be unusual that "all" were changed at some stage?
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David Gore
Moderator
Username: david_gore

Post Number: 2384
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 08:42 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Patrick,

Granted but experience has taught me to never take anything for granted ....... this always comes back to haunt you when you least expect it .

DRH14434 suffered hard times in the UK after it was replaced by the original owner. The car also suffered the supreme indignity of father-in-law fitting a US "Continental" kit comprising a false spare wheel holder mounted on the boot after it arrived in Australia - removing this abomination after he died was the first work I did on the car and which was enthusiastically received when I took the car into York Motors shortly afterwards. Needless to say, they shared my opinion of the "upgrade" .
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1713
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 09:35 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Yes they are correct. :-)

Look at the soldered ends. Occasionally the soldered joint to the fuse wire is dry.

It then only makes contact intermittently or not at all but of course visually it looks unblown and fine.

I've learnt to use a test lamp on the fuse holder rivets or remove fuses and move them along one in the process to eliminate this red herring!.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 927
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 10:06 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

David,

That "mod" sounds terrible, glad you removed it.

Paul,
All fuses in my car are marked like this.

I am going to replace them as a matter of course, but will keep these.

In regards to the 7 diodes in the fuse panel.
How can one check these to see if they are in good order?

As per the image below.
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Paul Yorke
Grand Master
Username: paul_yorke

Post Number: 1714
Registered: 6-2006
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 06:22 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi, it is nice to see a full set of original ones :-)


The diodes are like one way water valves.

Use an ohm meter to test. They should be almost zero ohms with positive lead on one end and maximum ohms from the other way.

You may have to disconnect the plug on the rear if you get any strange results. To make sure it's not feeding back through the car.

If you just have a battery and test light, put positive to one end and negative to the other and see if it lights.
Then put positive to the other one and repeat.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 930
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 06:47 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Paul,

I'm pulling the fuse board out and removing and cleaning all male and female pins with an electrical contact cleaner.

I have a pin testing kit, so that will come in handy for testing the drag or interference fit of the female receptacle.

Including all original diodes and fuses, the blue card/paper between the fuses is factory original as well.

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Alan Dibley
Experienced User
Username: alsdibley

Post Number: 39
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 07:39 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

While we are on the topic of bad connections, I recommend an inspection of all the engine side of the toe-board connectors. If the car has ever lived in a corrosive environment this is an essential check, because if it isn't a problem now it will be soon.

When I first bought SBH10630 - in the "Oh heck, what have I done?" phase - I found one pin on the fixed "double-spade" part to be completely eaten away by green corrosion. It was permanently at 12 volts if I recall correctly. There was a spare pin in the unit, fortunately. "Vaseline" is a good treatment for these connections - lots of it. I've inspected them since while tracing other faults, and found no new problems.

Alan D.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 935
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Monday, 23 January, 2017 - 09:14 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That's great advice Alan.

I will be sure to pull them apart as well.

Funny enough our trucks at work have issues with the "mega junction box" (yes that is its name) that supposedly allows a waterproof & dust proof route into and out of the cabin.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 1275
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Wednesday, 22 March, 2017 - 10:03 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Gents,
here are some images of the inside of my switchbox.









My problem is definitely in the front of the switchbox associated with the key.
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Jeff Young
Grand Master
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 324
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Wednesday, 22 March, 2017 - 08:45 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Love those cheese-head screws. They just look so "proper" compared to the more prosaic button-heads.

(Yes, I realise this puts me in the same camp as Vladimir with his door handle fetish.)

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 1279
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Thursday, 23 March, 2017 - 08:42 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

That's ok Jeff
Everyone has their little kinks
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Patrick Ryan
Grand Master
Username: patrick_r

Post Number: 1309
Registered: 4-2016
Posted on Saturday, 01 April, 2017 - 10:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Here are the 2 items found faulty in my switchbox.
Now it's as good as new, and working a treat.

The tumblers fell out of the ignition barrel, so it's new with a bright shiney new Yale key.

The main plate was very worn as you can see in the pics.







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