| Author | Message | ||
     Ben Curtis New User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 7 Registered: 12-2015 |
What would cause 4 bent and 1 broken pushrods? | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1605 Registered: 6-2006 |
Cylinders full of water or petrol or anything not gas. Sticking valves. Over revving suddenly. Overheating so the valves stuck. Dodgy tappets. Oil pressure relief valve stuck closed. (not come across that ever, but in theory maybe) Tell us more! Did it happen while driving? Just bought the car? Car been sitting for many many years? | ||
| Ben Curtis New User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 8 Registered: 12-2015 |
Its a sorry tale... Bought the car with a poorly engine, in bits, heads off, had been overheating, owner drew stumps as the bill was running away, disposed of via Westminster Autos, I bought it. Bought a used engine which turned out to be scrap. Bought a spares car, pulled the engine out and started to strip it last night for a re-fresh. Found the bent rods. Don't know much about the history. I got the right hand head off, no witness marks on valves or pistons, no broken rockers, all looks ok at first glance, except the push rods. | ||
| Ben Curtis New User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 9 Registered: 12-2015 |
On the plus side, I think I have enough parts to build one good engine. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1606 Registered: 6-2006 |
Ouch  Are all the valves free? | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 589 Registered: 4-2012 |
Ben your going to have us all in tears, how can one man be so unfortunate, apart from the engines being the way they are what is the rest of the cars like, I wish you well Ben in what seems to me like a mammoth undertaking. Richard. | ||
| Ben Curtis New User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 10 Registered: 12-2015 |
Not sure about the valve being free yet. The car is a 74 Shadow, in vermillion with chocolate brown leather, its really lovely and in fine condition. I paid a very fair price knowing full well the dramas that lay ahead. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1346 Registered: 5-2012 |
Ben On the bright side, you now have a spares car from which you will be able to recoup your money, from the sale of spare parts from it. Please keep us informed as to your progress. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1347 Registered: 5-2012 |
Also, since you are a new user to this forum you may not be aware that we are blessed with someone who can fabricate specialist tools, should you need them. Check out this link: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/31/21163.html?1467426441 Geoff | ||
| ross kowalski Frequent User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 63 Registered: 11-2015 |
Ben, You should have enough parts to make an engine. On the plus side, the engine you make will be a known quantity, assuming you do a full rebuild. The peace of mind will be worth the wrenching you have to do up front. Also reseal the front of the trans while it is exposed. Best, | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1096 Registered: 5-2015 |
most likely is excess rpm. to check push rods roll on flat surface. SLIGHTLY bent push rods can be straightened. an advantage of push rod engines is that the valves are stronger than the push rod so in the advent of contact hopefully the rod bends thus making repair easier and cheaper. note that in my humble experience of 50 years mucking about with engines. bent push rods are quite rare. give the oil galleries a good clean out. remove gallery plugs. | ||
| ross kowalski Frequent User Username: cdfpw Post Number: 64 Registered: 11-2015 |
On the engine with the bent push rods, because you don't know what happened I would look really closely at everything. Reconditioning an engine is actually the clean easy part. If I were doing it I wouldn't pull the cylinders. Come to think of it, how about this, the engine sat for a long time not running the lifters drained down someone tried to start it, and when it finally fired (probably with ether) they immediately reved it whereupon the lifters that hadn't loosened up were running with all kinds of clearance and bent the pushrods. What was the history of the spares car? | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1607 Registered: 6-2006 |
35 year old liner seals? Is it worth doing all the rest of the work to end up with an engine with weeping tell tales? Now, while it is apart, is the time to do it. Especially as the engines history is suspect. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 590 Registered: 4-2012 |
Ben if you are going to do a rebuild it might be worth trying to revive the original engine with the best parts of the other two. (just thinking) Richard. | ||
| Ben Curtis Experienced User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 11 Registered: 12-2015 |
Thanks all. Reviving the original engine might be tough - its only got 4 pistons....god knows where it all went wrong, long before my time. Does anyone know the dimensions of the tool to pull the liners? I can find the lumps of metal at work. | ||
| Kelly Opfar Prolific User Username: kelly_opfar Post Number: 102 Registered: 7-2004 |
Ben, here is a link on this forum where I showed the tool I made for my engine, but I had removed the studs first: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/19388.html?1457599232 As I mentioned in your post on RollsRoyceForums.com, I strongly suggest that you do not remove the studs. With the studs left in place, the dimensions for the tube have to change a bit. The maximum O.D. has to be 5.2" (132mmm) or less to clear the studs and the minimum I.D. is 4.8" (122mm) to allow the liner to come through. That will leave a .200 (5mm) wall thickness, which is adequate. The drawing of the bottom plate will be correct no matter what. Here is a heavier duty one that I just built for someone else. It has a much thicker wall and therefore must have reliefs cut out to clear the studs. I made the top and bottom plates much thicker because I could and I included a roller thrust bearing. The threaded shaft is 5/8"-18. Most of what I make is made from stainless, but this is made from carbon steel so I painted it.    | ||
| Ben Curtis Experienced User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 12 Registered: 12-2015 |
Thank you. That is all really useful. I don't really want to pull the liners out, however, I also don't want overheating issues later. I'm not clear on how effectively I can clean out the block without drawing the liners. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1608 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Ben, it's not just cleaning g out the waterways to think about. The liners also have rubber type seals. They will almost certainly be weeping or will when you put it back together. It will mean extra work but at least you can ensure everything at the bottom end is clean and will last while you are there  | ||
| Ben Curtis Experienced User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 13 Registered: 12-2015 |
I'm in the UK. If I decided to find a garage to pull the liners, clean out the block and refit, who could I use? Someone that's done it before? | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1105 Registered: 5-2015 |
engine number should match vin number | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Grand Master Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 341 Registered: 4-2015 |
Paul Yorke. | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 267 Registered: 10-2010 |
I'd also recommend Paul. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 1351 Registered: 5-2012 |
Paul Yorke for sure. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 2147 Registered: 4-2003 |
Another vote for Paul from me - this is a job where an experienced professional can save you a lot of time and money if you do not have a well-equipped workshop and the time to find solutions to the inevitable problems that will arise removing and replacing the engine components. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1609 Registered: 6-2006 |
Cheers guys! Ben, where are you in the UK? With three engines to choose from, you should be able to get at least one good one. Practice on the worst one, and see how you get on? Happy to help out though. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Prolific User Username: triumph Post Number: 135 Registered: 7-2012 |
Have only ever come across one engine with bent valves. Although it was a late(96) spirit with only 10k miles, the valves had seized in guides. I was told it was because later engines used sintered iron guides instead of phosphor bronze. My point is the owner had not be well and used to just move car out of garage and "run up" engine, he thought this would be enough having long term RR ownership. Could engine have been laying around and then started.? had similar problems with late '70'sjaguar XK engines. Paul YOrke knows his stuff, having converted with him and purchased parts and I have been working on Shadow's since 1966! | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 593 Registered: 4-2012 |
Paul Yorke is good, makes nice coffee and croissants. Richard. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 758 Registered: 4-2009 |
I also support Paul Yorke as being honest and knowledgeable. Omar | ||
| Ben Curtis Experienced User Username: burgundyben Post Number: 14 Registered: 12-2015 |
The cause of the bent push rods was stuck valves. I have a good rebuilt left hand head. I took the right hand head off and found 3 stuck valves, they came out no bother. So looks like I have a pair of heads. | ||
| Bob Reynolds Grand Master Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 415 Registered: 8-2012 |
Well two heads are better than one.  |
