Post Number: 539
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 07:51 am: |
Beautiful weather today so I am continuing to catch up the maintenance on the Wraith II that I adopted last April. Changed the diff lube, no prob. I drained about 2 teaspoons of lube from the right axle joint and refilled; moved over to the left side, drained nothing from the joint, then refilled. Ach! lube is draining out and running into my ear! The rubber boot is torn above the exhaust pipe, so I have ordered one and, like Chris a while back, soon I will be pulling the axle to replace the boot. I tucked Her back into the garage to await the parts.
Still have to chase that power drain: when I connect the battery I hear a click like a relay, underneath the bonnet. I will track it down easily when The Boy comes in from college to assist. At least she started right up. Gotta mess around with the fast idle: it's a little tricky to get Her off the cam. Is there a spring on the fast idle cam, or? I will have to study the literature...
Post Number: 1735
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 08:38 am: |
If the tear in that boot is clean and not huge you can definitely clean the boot off with a degreaser and seal it up again with silicone sealer. A sufficiently thick coating (which isn't very thick at all, that is spread out about a half an inch beyond the tear holds up extremely well.
When I had my self-induced tear in the boot I first tried a patch that was a non-woven fabric patch impregnated with black silicone sealant. That held up pretty well, but over time the fabric part caused more stress on the repair and lifted it off, allowing slow oozing. I did the repair again with straight silicone sealant and that worked much better. The tear was a "perfect fit together" affair when the boot was oriented in a certain way and I could apply the patch.
Even though you intend to replace the boot if you need to or want to drive the car without that trunnion joint being dry this will allow you to do so.
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 693
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 09:02 am: |
To get it off fast idle manipulate the throttle and the choke link to the choke flap.
The drive shaft on mine is a oblong shape joint.
To replace boot undo the 4 x 5/8. AF bolts. To lock the shaft tighten up the long nut on the hand brake and stout screwdriver across wheel studs with nuts fully on to protect threads. These bolts are at ths UJ end.
Place clean bowl under inner joint to catch any bits should you fumble it and the rollers and bearing drop off the trunnion.
Undo the small hose clip and big hose clip .pull the boot off the CV hub, The oblong bit. Then carefully pull the whole shaft out of the joint. As you pull it out cup your hand around the trunnion and bearings. Its all quite easy.
To fit new boot warm boot up to 40c.
Remove the end pads shims rollers from trunnion. Keep each side separate and id with marks on the shaft to id which end of the trunnion is which.
Stretch the small end over the trunnion using only smooth polished oiled levers.
Using thick sticky grease assemble the bearings. This is very easy. The gear oil will dissolve the grease.
Then fit to car. The small end of the gaiter fits over a raised bit of the shaft. Tighten small hose clip last so the boot moves up and down shaft as the big oblong end is fitted. A smear of oil for lub to help the gaiter slide.
Its very similar to doing a front wheel drive car cv boot. Its also easier.
While shaft is on the bench grease the UJ. Because two of the UJ cups are not secured place a g clamp over them and lightly tighten. Other wise the grease will force the cups off and you will have to put the the needle rollers all back in.
Also swivel the cups around on the UJ they should feel smooth with zero radial play. Also check the rubber seals.
If grease won't go in remove nipple and dig around with a small pokey thing. Also warm joint up to 90c this melts dried out grease. Also pop nipple in grease gun and test before refitting. I have found that if you keep at it blocked grease ways will clear.
All easy straightforward. The gaiter is 80 quid. But it is a big old gaiter.
One drive shaft serviced.
Providing the shaft is properly lub both ends they last many miles.
The exhaust cooks the left hand boot.
Check the final drive breather or vent fitted atop the final drive. These is a simple hole with a cover nothing fancy. Wash in petrol and blow out.
Post Number: 76
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 09:04 am: |
There is a product called Sugru which is perfect for this job. Mouldable silicone glue. Fantastic, I love it. I have repaired things from leather work boots, rubber boots on clutch levers, Mk VI steering column boot, insulating cables, making grommets. Have a look at their website. Inexpensive and convenient. I buy 5 x 5g sachets (keeps a long time in the fridge) for around $20 delivered to Oz. No connection to the business other than I love repairing stuff.
Post Number: 540
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 09:23 am: |
Thanks, Robert: part ordered and while I was under, I hit the outer joints with a few strokes of the grease gun and it seemed to go in fine.
This boot is badly broken up on the small end so it's replacement; I need the experience anyway.
Thanks Robert for the reminder on the diff vent!
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 694
|Posted on Sunday, 15 November, 2015 - 10:04 am: |
I think trying to glue a split gaiter together is bound to fail not many miles down the road. Still thats that area of the car rust proofed for a while.
It would be better to at least fit a stretchy universal gaiter. These are very stretchy. They will go oblong.
Why oil and not grease anybody any ideas.
The only one I could think off was grease collecting over one side and causing and imbalance. Every other car uses grease or runny grease.
Clear grease ways indicates someone has cared in thw past. I have seen nipples on cars that have never been touched since it left the factory.
I cannot stress how important keeping nipples greased is. Every 6k miles or 2 years is easy enough. The joints on these
Cars are well made and over engineered with grease they last for ever. Including track rod ends.
I have seen lots of failed joints because they weren't greased. Its so stupid not to.
Post Number: 1737
|Posted on Monday, 16 November, 2015 - 02:27 am: |
Bob_UK wrote: I think trying to glue a split gaiter together is bound to fail not many miles down the road.
I think this is absolutely true if you're talking about a substantial split, or a falling apart end which is what Randy describes.
I can assure you that this is not true if one is dealing with a small puncture like the one I put into one of my boots with a screwdriver when it slipped.
There are silicone compounds that are every bit the match of the original boot material. It's handy to know that this is a realistic option for small punctures/tears when other issues need to be attended to before the boot can be replaced (if one replaces it at all).
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 695
|Posted on Monday, 16 November, 2015 - 05:35 am: |
I will let you off with a small puncture such as a slipped screw driver.
CV BOOT NO 5. £7.80 inc postage in the UK. This boot has a dia of 125mm at the big end. The oblong bit is about 15 " in circumference which is about 5" or 125mm diameter.
Post Number: 544
|Posted on Tuesday, 17 November, 2015 - 08:03 am: |
wonder what worn-out parts I will find: after all no lube for how long? Not known...
Will the axle come off without moving the exhaust?
Robert Noel Reddington
Post Number: 711
|Posted on Wednesday, 18 November, 2015 - 07:05 am: |
The left hand drive shaft will come out without removing the exhaust.
The inner bits of the joint are a bit like a UJ. Needle rollers.