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Bob Reynolds
Prolific User
Username: bobreynolds

Post Number: 177
Registered: 8-2012
Posted on Tuesday, 14 October, 2014 - 09:26 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I tried adjusting the handbrake pads on my 1975 SS1, but the mechanism on the car looks nothing like the diagrams in the Workshop Manual.

After scratching my head for half an hour I thought I would check the SS2 manual, and lo and behold, it matches. So this is another one of those instances where the late Shadow 1 quietly evolved into the Shadow 2.

The adjustment procedure is much simpler than the earlier mechanism. Instead of having to get underneath the car and mess about with feeler gauges between each pad and the disc; you just adjust the pads until the wheel binds and then back it off a bit! Obvious really.

The new mechanism no longer has automatic adjusters. Does anybody know why the automatic adjusters were removed - seems like a backward step. Did they sieze up? Were they ineffective?
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 3101
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Tuesday, 14 October, 2014 - 11:29 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Carpark valets yanked the brake handle so hard that it overtightened then the autoadjusters ratcheted so much that the pads were good for less than a mile. Worse, the next valet couldn't work the release and drove the Shiny to the owner with the brake still applied - pads finished in 200 metres. Negligence was only overcome when the electric release was introduced around 1990 - shift from Park ot Neutral and the brake releases automatically. Few people ever use the parking brake with an automatic transmission, so who cares apart from the roadworthiness testers anyhow ?
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.77
Posted on Wednesday, 15 October, 2014 - 11:01 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The way I set up SHR 17768. 1974 Shadow h/b.

Remove long 1/2 a/f nut.
Disconnect cable.
pull the arms away from the disc and give all the pivots a squirt of oil and wiggle them they should move easily.

Reassembly and tighten the long nut until the pads touch and a half turn extra to centralize the bits. Then back long nut off so that the pads just drag by a small amount.

Reconnect cable. Apply handbrake. The relay arm across the car should be at right angles to the cables that go to the calipers. Oil everything.

The handbrake umbrella should come out a 1/3 to 1/2 its travel.

The cable for the umbrella can loop and short the starter relay. The spring on the relay must return the relay to the off position. To keep the cable taut. The relay pivot can get tight.

If your cable has plastic liner then only use silicon lub on the plastic bit. Because mineral greased may cause the plastic to go furry.

Once oiled, set up and working cover oiled points with grease. The theory is that the oil seeps in the joints and the grease holds the oil from running out.and damp getting in.

There is detailed measurements in the manual which if the relay lever is out of wack makes it easy to set to factory settings.

Sadly a lot of mechanics adjust h/brakes using the cable adjusters this is wrong. All.hand brakes are adjusted by slacking off the cable and then bring the shoes or pads close to the drum or disc. Once the shadow is set correct it stays correct.

If you wish once the car has passed the road worthy test, you can back the long nut off half a turn.

I do use my handbrake for parking. I wouldn't trust the brake on a hill. The drivers handbook says the same and suggests turning the front wheels into the kerb. I worry about jamming the parking pawl. A autobox guy said it is possible.

(Message approved by david_gore)

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