| Author | Message | ||
     Jorge Unregistered guest Posted From: 205.188.116.200 |
hello all I have a problem that is driving me crazy. I'm restoring a 1962 silver cloud II drophead. the car is perfect except for one little problem I'm having. When the car is cold it starts perfect and it runs like a dream. As soon as I shut the key off when it is warm it will not start. I wait like 15 minutes and it starts right up again and it is perfect. I've done the Ignition timing,the points have been set up in a distributor machine,I have replaced the points, the condenser,distributor cap, and rotor and still I have the same problem. While the car will not start there is gas coming up and there is a great spark at the coil. Just wondering if anybody could help I would appreciate it. MODERATOR'S COMMENT I have reluctantly allowed this post despite the fact that it has been sent from a proxy server which has been a well-known tactic of forum pests on this and other forums. I request JORGE to use a valid email address fpr future posts. (Message edited by david_gore on July 31, 2005) (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Martin Cutler Prolific User Username: martin Post Number: 65 Registered: 10-2004 |
Hi Jorge, If you have spark and fuel, I would guess that you have enough compression on a cold engine to start, but not enough compression on a warm motor to start. You also seem to have changed everything but the spark plugs. Whip the old plugs out, do a cold compression test. Insert new plugs, warm up the motor, then do a warm compression test. Do the figures differ? | ||
| Marianne Dawson New User Username: maddy Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2019 |
I have a similar problem with my Cloud III. Not exactly the same in that when adjustments are made to allow the engine to start when cold (1000 rpm’s) when the engine gets warm it runs too fast. When adjustments are made to warm engine to idle 500 rpm’s the engine will not start when cold. This is perplexing! Any thoughts on what the problem may be? I am blind to the solution. | ||
| Jeff Martin Frequent User Username: jeff_r_1 Post Number: 208 Registered: 07-2018 |
I don't have a Cloud with the V8, but from what you're describing, I would start trouble shooting the automatic choke. Check the thermostat coil and make sure that the bimetallic spring is not broken and that it can be adjusted. Check the stove pipe for blockage. Make sure all the linkages move freely. When working the big butterfly valve in the large butterfly assembly should almost be closed when the car is cold. As it warms up, it should open all the way. I suspect that it's not opening and closing as it should, and or the linkage to it to control the idle has become disconnected or dirty. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 2250 Registered: 05-2012 |
Another possibility is fuel vaporization when the engine gets hot. Flying Spares sell a kit to overcome this problem - it's basically a thicker inlet manifold gasket to offer more insulation between the carbs and the hot engine. https://www.flyingspares.com/overheat-reduction-kit-rh13183kit.html | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 364 Registered: 07-2012 |
Marianne, just sounds to me like fast idle cam is sticking on choke. When engine cold the fast idle cam sets the cold idle speed NOT the throttle stop. This works under the influence of the choke coil linkage lifting the fast idle cam when choke butterfly closed (this is why when starting from cold, the throttle is always pressed to the floor) this action sets fast idle, as engine warms and choke opens, gravity should do it's part to allow fast idle cam to gradually drop to reduce idle speed, to point when throttle stop comes into play. The cam SHOULD NOT be greased/lubricated as this "grabs" fast idle cam and stops it falling under it's own weight as choke flap opens. On it's pivot it should just be clean/free. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 365 Registered: 07-2012 |
Marianne, should have said as well make sure choke fast idle is set with engine hot/at normal running temperature. With engine off, manually open throttle from under bonnet and close choke flap. release throttle. This "traps" fast idle cam. Start engine and read what revs, should be 16/1700 rpm with hot engine. This can be set with little tappet like screw and bolt on fast idle cam. Blip throttle to release cam and let idle return to normal speed before switching off. It may take 2/3 attempts to get it correct, then see what it's like with cold engine. If set too low, cars stall in cold/half warm conditions. Sometimes takes day or two to get correct as car needs to be cold and then warm up to confirm correct choke operation! |
