| Author |
Message |
    
Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke
Post Number: 16
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 03:27: |    |
Hi All,
I am in the middle of preparing my Bentley (B72DA) for paint and also removal of the radiator that some nice person stabbed with a screwdriver. I have removed all the wing bolts and pipes but just have one last bolt to remove!
Its the main bolt at the bottom of the radiator. Yes the nasty one that people have mentioned before.
There seems to be a rubber block the long bolt goes through under the radiator frame but you cant see it. The bolt has cleared the threads but seems to be stuck on the rubber block. It is creaking and is very tight to turn.
Is there a method of removing this? I thought about hacksawing the head of the bolt off and lifting the radiator up out the way then dealing with the bolt and block afterwords. Would this work? I am unsure what lurks under the radiator, once I cut the bolt there is no going back.
Many thanks Mark Anson |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 543
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 04:36: | |
Don't cut that bolt ! If you do, it's all over bar the oxy torch.
I assume it has undone such that the bolt has cleared the thread in the radiator bottom tank. You now need to lift the radiator enough to remove the load on the bolt and it will come out. Behind the bolt's head, use the largest screwdriver you have to prise the bolt slowly forward while turning it with your socket spanner. Be gentle and you will do no damage.
The bolt is not in contact with rubber, but rather a steel sleeve in the centre of the mounting block attached to the chassis. It is just possible that the bolt has rusted onto the sleeve and that the rubber is shot.
If still in trouble, restart the thread, apply WD40, and wind the bolt in and out several times. This will free up the bolt to sleeve markedly. Even if the centre tube is adrift from the rubber, by winding the bolt in and out the two must move relative to eachother. It is extremely unlikely that this would not be sufficient to remove the bolt.
Next desperate try, use a puller on the bolt head. If all else fails, push it out from behind with a drift and puller.
I did mine on my R-Type just over a year ago when I replaced the radiator core. Yes, this is that b****** bolt in this job. It will come eventually I assure you. |
Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke
Post Number: 17
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 08:39: | |
Thanks Richard. I have tried most of those methods but it is stuck fast. I cant get heat to the rubber as the whole radiator frame covers it. By the sound and feel of the bolt it looks like the tube the bolt goes through is rusted tight. The rubber has now given way so bolt and tube are spinning. I have used a ball joint type fork and a "big" hammer with no joy. Have left it to soak overnight but still think I will have problems.
If the bolt is clear of the threads and the head of the bolt is cut off would there be anything stopping the radiator coming out? (I have removed all chrome radiator covers and bolts. This is the ONLY bolt left)
Many thanks Mark |
Bill Coburn
Grand Master
Username: bill_coburn
Post Number: 331
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 08:58: | |
Mark can I suggest you give WD40 a better go. The trick is to make a dam with putty or Blu Tack and fill it with the stuff so that the part is submerged. Another point is that the mounting bracket in which the silentbloc bush sits is bolted to the front axle - have you undone those bolts when the whole thing should lift off? |
Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke
Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 19:21: | |
Good morning,
Many thanks Bill, I will go out and try that now. Will let you all know if removing the silentbloc axle bolts works.
Cheers Mark |
Mark Anson
Frequent User
Username: bentleybloke
Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 22:15: | |
Well I got the radiator out!! I had to cut the head off the bolt, cut the bottom frame near the bolt and peel back the framework. I then lifted the rad out. I can see now how the silentblock is located and unfortunately undoing the bolts from underneath is not possible.
Once out the next job was removal of the core. This too was stuck. I had removed all bracing bars but it still would not come out. I then saw the bar that is spot welded across and drilled out the spot weld. Straight away the radiator was free to move. I will put a bolt there now instead so refitting will be easier.
What are your thoughts on fitting the frame back into the car first and then sliding the radiator core in at a later date? Has anybody done this? If so what problems if any did you have?
I am presuming this set up was designed for fast removal of a leaking radiator or am I wrong?
Thanks for all your help.
Cheers Mark |
Robert Wort
Prolific User
Username: robert_wort
Post Number: 89
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 22:22: | |
This looks interesting Mark.
Have you got a digital camera yo so can download pics of this for the benefit of others that may come across this in future? |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 544
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, 01 February, 2005 - 22:27: | |
Mark,
Phew, what a job.
I would not attempt to fit the frame and slide the radiator in later. I always fit the radiator into the frame, fit the grille to the frame and drop the whole assembly back in. I also remove the whole assembly intact. Refitting will be far quicker that was the removal.
Incidentally, my R.Type has setscrews to retain the bracing bar on the motor side. Releasing the setscrews has always allowed the radiator to slide out without disturbing the front bracing bar on my car.
Which core will you use ? For authenticity, a genuine core pattern is available from New Zealand. The South Australian replacement is around half the price and offers over three times the cooling (heat transfer) capacity. I fitted the latter last time. On an early car, where the cooling was a bit marginal anyhow, this makes real sense.
RT.
RT. |