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Jack Higginbotham
Experienced User
Username: jhinmd

Post Number: 22
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Sunday, 17 June, 2018 - 09:22 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

All of my gauges work, with the exception of the water temp. My IR gun tells me that the temps are around 145-150 F so she seems to run fairly cool.
The oil pressure portion of the gauge is working, if that is of any value.
I can not find details of how this works, but guessing it is the type using a capillary of ether to expand and move the needle? Any details and experience on correction are appreciated.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 807
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Monday, 18 June, 2018 - 06:04 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jack...
I cannot address the temperature sender/gauge issue but wonder if the calorstat that opens and closes the radiator vanes is operating. Are the vanes always in the fully opened position or do they vary with water temperature? Given a choice I would prefer (be thankful for) the running cool condition rather than running too hot as the vanes if constantly open position can be manipulated by hand to increase temperature.

.
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Jack Higginbotham
Experienced User
Username: jhinmd

Post Number: 23
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 26 June, 2018 - 11:20 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you Christian, and my apologies for the slow response. The radiator vanes are functioning correctly, opening when warm and closing when cool. It activates very smoothly.
In other news, I have spent a bit more time with the water temp gauge to no avail. To ensure Iím not doing any damage while I source a repair or replacement part, I may run an auxilary temp gauge.
I have read of several repairs to ether based units but I canít find any definitive information on pre-war RR. All help appreciated.
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Christian S. Hansen
Grand Master
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 811
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Tuesday, 26 June, 2018 - 02:11 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jack...
Sorry I cannot be of more assistance with the sending unit except that I seem to recall somewhere in one or another of the manuals regarding head removal that it cautioned that the sending bulb (one of the Phantoms as I recall...but probably same for small horsepower engines) is VERY fragile and that fate may have befallen yours at one point. As to repairs, I too seem to recall that someone offered such services but I also recall that was for the calorstat rather than sending bulb. My bet is either Vintage Garage in VT or Dennison-Jayne. Good luck there. Worth a few calls. Once you get a functioning gauge to monitor temps, you may choose to adjust the linkage on the calorstat to get the vanes to open later and close sooner and perhaps encourage the temps to run hotter? In any event, I am envious as having noted that I would prefer a too cold problem rather than a too hot problem any day. In either event, given the "hands on" nature and driver/chauffeur related expectations of awareness of adjustable conditions inherent in the prewar chassis, not being able to monitor temperature would make me nervous, too.

.
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Jack Higginbotham
Experienced User
Username: jhinmd

Post Number: 24
Registered: 11-2017
Posted on Tuesday, 03 July, 2018 - 07:58 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you Christian. As I solve this issue, I will post my procedure on this thread in hopes of being useful to others in the future.
Best,
Jack

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