| Author | Message | ||
     Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 370 Registered: 10-2009 |
I recently saw a post quoting that a particular type of rust-treating gloop was "the only one that really works" or similar words. In the collective opinions of the forum members what is "the only one that really works"? I've searched here and there but couldn't find the post. Alan D. (Who is not the only one with rusty bits on his cars.) | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 836 Registered: 10-2008 |
I waxoyl all of my cars underneath and box sections.Spray all chrome etc with duck oil after washing in winter and after the first application of waxoyl, spray box sections and vulnerable areas with engine oil before each winter. Still get some rust !!! Mark | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 836 Registered: 05-2016 |
Lanoguard made from lanolin in sheep's wool is a good underbody protector and does a similar but better job than Wax oil but with less mess.Once rust has taken hold the only solution is to cut out the metal section and weld in replacement metal. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Frequent User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 837 Registered: 10-2008 |
Larry,we were debating Lanoguard for a recently purchased 1958 Rover 60 which has not been treated underneath only with VERY old underseal which is largely sound. The car is very sound and original with ally panels. Do you recommend Lanoguard. Mark | ||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 540 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... I use an electronic prevention method. In my daily driver 4x4 I have a 'Counter-act' http://www.couplertec.eu/what-is-couplertec-and-how-does-it-prevent-rust/ Link is not the same as I have but same thing. Mine has been running for 20 + years and still works. I dare anyone to find any rust on my Rebecca. Graham. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 837 Registered: 05-2016 |
Hi Mark, I used Lanoguard on my Landrover Defender chassis 3 years ago and it's holding up well. It's supposed to be reapplied once a year but I haven't got around to it yet, hopefully I will before the end of the summer but the first application is still doing its job. I liked that it was so easy to apply with an ordinary spray bottle and the way it dried to a non-greasy surface. Keep away from brake discs for obvious reasons. I would definitely recommend it provided it's applied to a sound, clean surface. | ||
| Kevin Bacon New User Username: bacon13 Post Number: 9 Registered: 11-2022 |
For some years I owned a ships chandlers on the East Coast of the UK. Trawlers and oil rigs in the north sea are in a far more hostile and corrosive environment than our cars. After talking to engineers and shipwrights I decided to test products that they spoke of by painting some metal plates and leaving exposed on our building which was close enough to the harbour walls that salt spray as well as rain got to them. This was pre the Lanoguard days, I found some products were of little use,the much vaunted WD40 being the most well known of them. Eureka Fluid Film performed well and would 'self heal' when scratched. Paints as a whole slowed rust but when scratched rusted deeply around the scratch. Oil and grease applied thickly worked quite well, almost as well as waxoyl. I use Eureka Fluid Film for my fleet,its pretty much the same (judging by the makers descriptions) as Lanoguard. However my decision was swayed as when the chandlers closed I liberated a few drums for myself. I was fascinated to see under the massive layers of paint on a ex naval vessel that there was little rust, impossible on a vehicle chassis though. I always apply any protection on a dry warm day, covering any damp especially on existing corrosion lets it spread fast and out of sight, | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 782 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi Kevin, I wonder if sacrificial anodes would work like on a boat? As you mentioned working in a chandelers . | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 371 Registered: 10-2009 |
I started this thread, and it is just getting REALLY interesting. Keep it going. Alan D. | ||
| Trevor Hodgekinson Frequent User Username: wm20 Post Number: 291 Registered: 11-2006 |
Cathodic protection only works when there is a electrolyte connecting the anode to the surfaces being protected. It sort of works in boats because the hull is always under water It won't work on cars other than galvanizing where the entire surface is coated with the anode . Two different metals or one metal with areas of different stresses will corrode whenever it is wet . All of the "prrofing simply provides a barrier between the metal & the water . | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 382 Registered: 10-2009 |
Trevor, you have just destroyed my hope of a REAL solution. In retrospect of course, it is obvious that it works that way, and would not work on a car. So back to the Waxoil spray. Alan D. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2566 Registered: 09-2004 |
Just spray with old sump oil lightly will stay moist with build up of road dust in summer, self healing and will not dry out and crack like some cars that are used all year round with the winter salt finding away under the cracked wax etc! BTW on the Shadow 1 remember to remove the over rider rubber plugs to spray with oil.  | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 2567 Registered: 09-2004 |
A few years of not doing the oil rust prevention on the brake ferrules and a few had started to rust.   Rear end all done not forgetting the compliance brillo mounts.  Front front last part nearly done and no not the exhaust pipe! Oil mix, a small amount of acetone and paraffin, must do the wheels on the inside when time permits. Leave car for the surplus oil drips, do it on a hot dry day. Not bad for a nearly sixty year old car. . | ||
| Kevin Bacon New User Username: bacon13 Post Number: 10 Registered: 11-2022 |
Many moons ago when I was an apprentice my firm hired a professor,an expert on corrosion to help cure a corrosion problem on some machinery. He looked like Albert Einstein,called everyone "dear boy" and packed more words into a sentance than anyone Ive met before or since. He drove an immaculate and ancient Austin.I asked him about painting under a car with old engine oil,he said the problem was that by products of combustion in the oil made it less effective than some purpose made applications but a thick layer would delay rusting as long as it remained intact,and was what he used, | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 385 Registered: 10-2009 |
Very interesting, Patrick and Kevin. So, since my pit-ramp is already marked with old oil spills (Citroen CX oil filter in difficult-to-get-at place, Bentley T similar and someone who drained a 20/25 into a funnel which had a bunch of leaves inside it) I will start using this inexpensive system. Purpose of posting satisfied, I think. Alan D, who will have to learn to like the smell. |
