| Author | Message | ||
     Alan Scard Yet to post message Username: alanscard Post Number: 1 Registered: 7-2015 |
I have just overhauled the rear height rams on my 1972 Shadow SRH 13952, which incurred much bad language!! I have also cleaned out the reservoir and made 3 new filters. There was a lot of "gloop" in the system, which I understand is caused by not changing the RR363 since 2006. Apparently this is a "time" not "mileage" problem. I intend to vacuum out all the old RR363 and flush/re-fill with DOT 4 to ensure the whole system is working correctly. Then I will vacuum out the DOT 4 and re-fill with RR363. My problem is that the car is backed into my garage over the inspection pit so that I could sort out the rear height rams. I cannot reach the front bleed nipples so I need to turn the car around. I could either push the car, which is heavy but steering without power is very hard or I could drive the car, using the handbrake. My question is will this damage the 2 pumps? I would appreciate any comments. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1589 Registered: 6-2009 |
Were I you I'd do the reservoir suctioning, fill up the reservoir with my chosen flushing fluid, bleed the rear brakes, then back the car out. If you haven't disturbed the front brakes yet you will likely have at least some braking from them as well. I can't see any reason to run the system "dry" or to not do a preliminary flush/bleed on the rear calipers if you have easy access to them before moving the car. You're talking about very low speeds here. If you haven't seen or read it I suggest you take a look at this step-by-step that I put together over the years: Flush and Bleed Your Silver Shadow/Bentley T Hydraulics/Brakes the Easy Way Brian | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 387 Registered: 5-2015 |
Fill the reservoir with dot 3 or dot 4. Start engine when hydraulic pressure lights go out run for another min. Turn engine off. Pump the system down until the lights come on plus another 20 pumps. This will bleed the air from spheres and ACV valves and as far as the brake valves in the rat trap. This should give you brakes which are slightly delayed due to air in the calipers which are cul de sacs. Then once access to the caliper nipples are obtained. With engine running take a squirt from each front caliper. 4. The rear calipers identify which pair of pistons is power and which is manual master cylinder. The master is green and the power is blue ID colour code. When bleeding the power circuit if its piped via the anti lock valve then opening the nipple to wide or to fast will cause this valve to block the flow. It does no damage just start again on that nipple. The master can be a pita. Pump and squirt works well. Any sign of trouble with the master replace it. Also it can be vacuum bleed and my favourite is to open tge nipple and let gravity do the work followed by a pump and squirt. Then suck the dot 3 or dot 4 from the reservoir and replace with RR363. The rams. Run engine put weights in boot. Open ram bleed nipples. This circuit once moving will bleed itself. Dot 3 and Dot 4 will happily mix with RR363. The sludge is not caused by Dot 3 or Dot 4 any more than RR363 does remember that the full Name is Castrol RR363 Dot 3. Flushing is best done with Dot 3 or Dot 4 or RR363 or Yak363. Not alcohol. 9 years causes sludge. |
