| Author | Message | ||
     Janne Aittola New User Username: jannea Post Number: 27 Registered: 07-2018 |
Trying to find original under bonnet pads to my RR Silver Shadow 1968. -janneA/Finland | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2870 Registered: 06-2009 |
I doubt that any original (and I mean truly original) under bonnet pads are anything you'd want to have. I could have sworn that I had the information for someone who made these, using modern flame-proof material, that are precise replicas of the originals, but I can't seem to find it at the moment. If I do, I'll post it. Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3364 Registered: 04-2003 |
Patrick Ryan, I remember you rejuvenating these pads when you were preparing your car for a Concours with a pressure washer [if my memory is correct, you won a class win for your car]. Details of how you did this would be very useful for and appreciated by others wanting to do the same. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 464 Registered: 05-2016 |
I recall reading an article on the manufacture of bespoke under bonnet insulation using black fireproof restaurant quality table cloth material over fireproof foil coated insulation sheets. The stitching was finished in a similar fashion to the original but the cost was far cheaper than the factory manufactured article. If memory serves me correctly the topic was created by Robert J. Sprauer but I could be wrong. I can't find it now. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2872 Registered: 06-2009 |
David, I believe the topic, Silver Shadow Series : Up Coming Concours, and I need help, is the one of Mr. Ryan's that you're recalling. Specifically, this entry: http://au.rrforums.net/cgi-bin/forum/show.pl?tpc=17001&post=38431#POST38431 Bill Coburn also makes mention on another topic about Tee-One Topics, Issue 19, page 252, has additional information regarding the material used to make them. I absolutely know that I once was part of a discussion about having someone make these, and it was a local seamstress/quilter, as that's really all these are. It was something like a carbon fiber welding blanket, heat/fire resistant batting, and another fabric that faced the actual bonnet (and that may have been another sheet of the carbon fiber welding blanket). There are cheaper options than carbon fiber that are still heat/fire resistant, and it's certain that what the originals are made of was not carbon fiber. Anyone with reasonable skill with a needle can edge that fabric sandwich and attach the necessary connector loops after having quilted the sandwich to match the original. Brian | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2101 Registered: 04-2016 |
David, Yes I did  There are quite a few different types of under bonnet pads. The worse ones are the stitched type, with an almost nylon like semi shiny finish. These can fall apart, and start hanging over the engine. Or the type I had which were a type of heatproof moulded fibre type material, then a course fibre top material stitched to it. I found these can be very robust, but can be blown apart by high pressure water blasters. This is my under bonnet pads.  My pads were in pretty good shape, but just very dirty and very discoloured and almost grey/brown in appearance. Firstly I completely covered the engine bay, front guards and windscreen in a very large tarp. I then got a soft scrubbing brush, and brushed away all loose material, which was mainly road grime, and some loose fibrous material from the pads. I then used a soft spray nozzle on the hose and washed the pads using a mild dish washing liquid, and a sponge. Also paying attention to the surrounding bonnet around and between the pads. This uncovered and confirmed as in most series I Shadows, the underside of the bonnet is actually a flat black, not body colour. I let this dry for a week, and found the pads in great condition, they just looked bad. I’m glad I didn’t take them off and replace them which is what I thought I would have to do. While preparing the car for its “touring class” entry I decided to pressure blast all the road grime off from under the wheel arches and use a flat chassis black under the guards. The underfloor section of my car was still all original, and just required cleaning to expose the factory finish. However, the car being a country car, under the guards were quite dirty, muddy, and the aluminium screw on inspection plates were sand blasted clean by many years of driving on dirt roads. The flat chassis black looked amazing. As the black finish under the bonnet was looking tired I thought I would mask up the pads and paint all the exposed bonnet between the pads to rejuvenate this area. During this very time consuming job, I accidentally over sprayed the chassis black onto about 2 inches of pad material as the tape fell off. CRAAAAAP I thought, so I walked away for 10 minutes, and when I came back, the pad material had soaked in the paint, and looked brand new! So, I removed all the masking and hit the lot with the flat chassis black. The aluminium bonnet between the pads, had a very nice low sheen effect, and the pads were a beautiful flat black look. Just like new. When dry, I just got a small brass brush and cleaned off the nuts holding the pads and and it just looked factory. As you can see, there is nothing can be done with the depressions made in the pads by the hydraulic reservoir, or the header tank cap. But when painted, they looked fantastic as well If needed I also have some images somewhere of the under bonnet pads outside in full sun, so they can be seen better. Here is a link to my original post for help. And again, thank you to all that helped me, I would not have won these 2 awards with it it chaps. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17001/21230.html | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2102 Registered: 04-2016 |
You beat me to it Brian I was just lucky my pads were in physically decent shape, just worn, and old. A bit like me  Here are some pics of my under bonnet area when I first found the car. Before my “accidental painting” of the pads.   Note the black under bonnet paint, which I initially thought was just dirt and grime covering the blue. If you would like to know what I used on all my rubber products to look new again, let me know. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3365 Registered: 04-2003 |
Patrick, Is there a clue to your offer above in the video clip on the link below? https://youtu.be/6mqWOXGQXIQ I think so  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3366 Registered: 04-2003 |
Brian, Your comment about using a customised welding blanket has great merit but my experience using them is they are probably thicker than needed to be suitable for under-bonnet[hood] use. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 455 Registered: 11-2017 |
It was me that restored my underhood pads to original factory appearance. Fortunately the visible material was in great shape albeit oily. The "padding" was shot and the cotton like material used as the inside against the hood basically was toast. I used aerospace padding with a black heat shield that was bonded to the padding and to replace the old cotton material I used commercial flame retardant black table cloth. The results were perfect. The pieces were stitched together along the factory lines | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2873 Registered: 06-2009 |
David, All I can remember definitely is that it was a black fire resistant (perhaps not fireproof) fabric that was used on the "engine facing" side. The stuff that's in SRH33576 is definitely lightweight nylon-ish sort of stuff. It also has the "rubbed off spot" characteristic of a great many where it just touches the AC compressor pulley over the years. I'll have to look again to see if the same stuff is in LRK37110. It's clear from my review of my own photos and those I found during some of my searches (all of which I have to believe are of the OEM equipment for the SY car pictured) that Crewe was not in any way consistent about the quilting on these things over time. I am very happy that Mr. Sprauer confirms my vague, yet definite, memory of this being discussed specifically at some point in the (for me) hazy past. Brian | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2103 Registered: 04-2016 |
David, You know me to well No, that’s for everything else but, it does work VERY well on good rubbers that’s for sure. Remember this post. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/30/24789.html The Patrick’s gave it a go and loved it on their Jag, Porsche & Shadow No, my other secret weapon for old and grey or discoloured rubbers is this. Again something I stumbled on, that works better than anything else I have ever used.  | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Frequent User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 628 Registered: 05-2007 |
Patrick, just be careful. Don't use the Kiwi on the vinyl covers on the air inlets near the blower motors. I used their black roll-on shoe polish on one of mine and the vinyl cracked in short order. I guess it was the heat reacting with the solvent in the polish. I'll give it a go on the rubbers though. I've been using the BMW gummipflege on mine, which is excellent but pricey in Australia. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 2874 Registered: 06-2009 |
Kiwi leather dye (which is water based) gives a nice, high shine [it always looks like polish as far as I'm concerned] and once dry is waterproof. | ||
| Janne Aittola New User Username: jannea Post Number: 28 Registered: 07-2018 |
Thank you all and you are right Brian, not truly original pads but original looking. Your idea of DIY is interesting and Patrick's picture of the original pads and stiching patterns helps the planning. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 3367 Registered: 04-2003 |
The Rolls-Royce product at a Rolls-Royce price for this application is DuPont Krytox GPL105 liquid. I use this on my partner's Eos folding roof seals every 6 months to prevent water leaks and wind noise from hardened seals. A hard grey seal quickly becomes matt black and supple after rubbing in a smear of liquid with a finger tip. It also works extremely well on door, window and other seals. BMW Gummipflege has been tried by international Eos owners who contribute to a specialist forum I belong to - this does not have the longevity of the GPL105 from their contributions. Dive shops are a good source for Krytox as it is widely used on regulators and seals. VW dealers also stock this product as a service item for the Eos. The quality of the product is remembered long after the price is forgotten. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 2104 Registered: 04-2016 |
Hi Jeff, I think you may have mentioned this before, and I have steered clear of it mate. What I like about the free flowing kiwi shine, is it drops in all behind and under the rubber, so gets right into nooks and crannies. It looks quite ordinary when you do it, but an hour later, all you see is shiny rubber  Glad the pics of the original pads helped Janne. |
