| Author | Message | ||
     Greg Unregistered guest Posted From: 4.65.95.182 |
As I mentioned in my earlier thread, I did aquire the Rolls Royce today. Due, very much in part to the cousel I received on this web page. Thank you. It is a 1976 LWB Silver Shadow and it does have the tag under the right hand side of the hood that says RR Silver Shadow. Now the search begins and persuant to all your excellent advice to date, I think I should begin here as well. Is there a fair market somewhere for RR parts? New or used? At this point I am looking to replace a cracked right hand side tail light lens and the chrome trim piece which runs down the center of the hood, from just below the windshield to the radiator. Should I expect these items to be easy or difficult to locate? Thanks in advance, Greg | ||
| Richard Treacy Prolific User Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 55 Registered: 4-2003 |
Parts are easy to buy in the UK, and I receive them usually within 4 days in Canberra. www.introcar.co.uk Also, there are many others such as Broughtons, Jack Barklay etc. In recent years, the Internet has forced them all to be competetive as pricing and availability are so transparent. Your lens will cost around A$40. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 104 Registered: 4-2003 |
Greg, If you are in Australia you could try Neil Mclean in Perth for second hand parts as he dismantles R-R/B cars. Flying Spares in the UK are another good source of Shadow parts. | ||
| Greg Unregistered guest Posted From: 4.65.95.182 |
Thanks for the leads guys, Actually I'm in Southern California but I just sold one of my Corvettes to a fellow in Australia, so perhaps I should reciprocate and send some of his hard earned dollars back to his homeland. Richard, I will try the link you sent and follow up with David's leads as well. Thanks, Greg | ||
| Roy Brochtrup Unregistered guest Posted From: 24.136.89.66 |
Hi Greg, I also just bought a 1976 silver shadow and am located in so cal. Would be interested in any resources for parts and service that you discover. Would be glad to share what little information I have with you as well. Roy royb@asisilica.com | ||
| Greg Unregistered guest Posted From: 4.65.95.182 |
Hello Roy, Ditto, if you find someone in So-cal please let me know as well. I'm located in Palm Springs. Where are you? Greg | ||
| Ralph Brooks Unregistered guest Posted From: 12.219.241.167 |
I also live in So. Cal, in Inyokern (about 160 mi NE of LA) on the wrong side of the Sierra Nevada in the high desert. I have a 1980 SW II, LRL 40634, with starting problems and other electrical problems. I detailed all the symtems on the RROC (USA) bulletin board, but the only reply I got was, "Take it to a qualified RR/B mechanic" which is not an option and not very helpful. I would have taken this advice if possible. Again, any advice etc. that I can get will be very much appreciated. Cheers Ralph ralphb@mchsi.com | ||
| Greg Unregistered guest Posted From: 4.46.85.248 |
Hi Ralph, Agreed. I prefer to be more "hands on" myself. I've owned over 70 collecter cars (mostly American) and have done everything from minor cosmetics to complete frame off restorations. I have moderated on another collector car forum and found that most who own collector cars don't usually do their own work on them. Perhaps this is the reason for the response of "Take it to a qualified RR mechanic" They simply did not know the procedure for repair. If asked, I will usually submit the full details of a repair procedure and let the individual decide if it's something he wants to attempt or leave to someone better qualified. As these RR/B's are a rarer breed I would expect to find more technical information sharing on this board. I certainly hope this proves to be true. Up to this point I have found the members very helpful with my entry level querries. Good luck, Greg | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 105 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ralph & Greg, Thank you for your kind comments on our site and you will be pleased to know we have a strong group of "do it yourselfers" in the Australian Rolls-Royce Owners Club. DIY car maintenance and repair is a long Australian tradition and we also are only too happy to share our knowledge and experience with others no matter where they live in the world. Ralph, could you please put a post in the Shadow technical forum describing your problems and we should be able to help you despite the fact that your emission control systems are different to cars delivered here. Unfortunately, I will be away most of this week as I have to go to a family funeral in the country so will not be able to reply until next weekend. | ||
| Ralph Brooks Unregistered guest Posted From: 12.219.241.167 |
Thank you, David. Here are the symtoms fo my problem on 1980 SW II LRL 40634: 1. On starting after sitting overnight or for an hour in the supermarket parking lot, the engine will start and run strongly for 30 to 60 seconds and then quit cold. All attempts to restart will fail regardless of what I try until it has sat for about 5 minutes. Then it will start and run like a watch. 2. The A/C blower continues to run after I switch off the ignition until I turn the A/C switch to OFF. 3. This started recently - something is draining the battery to "flat" (even the clock quits) unless I turn off the battery disconnect switch. I can hear nothing running even with my hearing aids turned all the way up, but my wife says she hears something under the dash. I do not believe I have a fuel pump problem since the car runs fine once started. 4. Occasionally after start or restart, the exhaust emits a dense cloud of white smoke for a few seconds. | ||
| Graeme Söderlund Frequent User Username: graemeaus Post Number: 14 Registered: 6-2003 |
Ralph & Greg, despite the fact that you are going to get a lot of good advice and lots of help from this site (Aussies are truly into DIY and self help, have either of you managed to get hold of a Workshop manual and illustrated Parts Directory? I recently purchased a Silver Shadow and would be completely lost without these publications. A friend helps me with work on the car and his knowledge is far in advance of mine on things mechanical. He has taken particular delight in the car and the manuals, and keeps quoting facts/techniques/details at me that I have never heard of. All of which is garnered from these publications. I managed to buy these through a chap in the US who advertised on the internet. His name was Larry and the site was tbird@consultant.com. He offered a complete work shop manual and illustrated parts catalogue and this is exactly what I received. If you don't already have them, I would strongly recommend them to you. Good luck to both of you with your cars. Regards, Graeme. | ||
| Greg Unregistered guest Posted From: 4.46.85.248 |
Thanks for the tip Graeme. No, I do not have the manuals but I would very much like to aquire at least one. What should I expect to pay for one of these? Best, Greg | ||
| Mark Tomlinson Unregistered guest Posted From: 203.164.20.179 |
For those in California USA try HTTP://www.rolsfix.com they are a Rolls Royce dismantler in California.I have as yet not been in touch with these people, but am assured they are good for most parts. | ||
| Graeme Söderlund Frequent User Username: graemeaus Post Number: 15 Registered: 6-2003 |
Greg, I paid $117.00 US(including postage) for the Workshop Manual and the Spare Parts Catalogue. They have been invaluable in getting some of the maintenance sorted out and getting Kieran to understand that the car is not just any old mechanical item. Larry had some left when I bought mine and he arranged to get them to me without any problems. Regards, Graeme. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 106 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ralph, I did put a post on the US Open Forum in response tp your original request but they appear to be having problems as all the posts for August are missing. Have extracted the text of my response for you as below: "Date: 28-Aug-03 20:40 Author: David Gore - Australia Subject: Hot Starting problems Ralph, Your problem sound like fuel volatilisation draining the carburettors when hot and fuel leaking from the carburettor bowls overnight - time for a carburettor overhaul with a service kit to fix the problem - make sure you check the jet diaphragms as suggested by Bill Coburn in his post above. A little trick to get your Shadow II started if the fuel bowls are empty; turn the ignition on and put the transmission selector into reverse and turn the ignition key to start - naturally the engine won't start but the fuel pumps should come on and fill the fuel bowls, just wait till the ticking stops, put the transmission back into park and then start your engine. The fuel pumps have a safety switch activated by engine oil pressure to prevent fuel being pumped in the event of an accident breaking a fuel line but this also prevents the pump from operating to fill the carburettor until the engine cranking by the starter motor builds up enough oil pressure to close the switch to operate the pumps. The trick above allows the safety switch to be bypassed to fill the carburettor before starting the engine. 2. Which fan is running-on, the electric fan on the radiator or the air circulation fan in the HVAC system? If it is the radiator fan, this usually operates on a coolant temperature sensor and will operate until the coolant temperature drops to the set level even if the ignition is off - standard practice here due to our climate. If it is the recirculation fan, it may be a faulty switch due to dirty/broken contacts, short-circuited wiring or a faulty diode on the fuse board allowing voltage to get to the motor. I do not have any experience with the Shadow II system to be more specific. Hope this helps." Items 2 & 3 could be related to faulty diodes on the fuse board - these need to be checked and replaced if necessary - following info is also a post of mine from the US site: "Date: 21-Jul-03 19:40 Author: David Gore - Australia Subject: Diode Rating Hi Johnson, The rating of the diode is not all that critical as the current capacity has to be in the forward condition [i.e. the diode allows current to pass] - in the R-R/B situation, passage of current is not wanted so any rating should be OK. I only mentioned the 4 Amp rating as these are the most widely available and lowest cost diode. The Radio Shack specification is most unusual - do they have a technical support service you could phone to get more information? The average sales person in today's stores are rarely electronic component literate. Our equivalent component retailers in Australia have very good phone technical support for situations such as this." 4. White smoke from the exhaust on startup is usually due to water leaks into the cylinders from some source. Only exception of course is cold winter mornings when the normal water vapour in the exhaust gas condenses in the cold air until the engine and exhaust system warm up. Please advise how you get on with these problems. |
