| Author | Message | ||
     Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 274 Registered: 10-2009 |
Does anyone have a solution to the problem of bleed tubes being blown off the bleed nipple by spurts of high-pressure fluid? I have never found a reliable way to hold the tube on. I have made a clamp sort of thingamyjig which should work - I will try it tomorrow when the temperature promises to be a few more degrees above freezing (the T needs a brake-bleed session). If anyone has a method or a bit of kit to recommend I'm listening. Alan D. | ||
| Jim Walters Frequent User Username: jim_walters Post Number: 329 Registered: 01-2014 |
Hold it with your fingers and don't crack the bleed screw open so far. Make a T from scrap wood that measures a foot across the top and about 18 inches long. Glue some foam onto the top of the T. Place the top against the lower part of the driver's seat and the leg onto the brake pedal. Use the power seat switch to depress the pedal with the tool you have just made. It doesn't have to go down with a lot of force, just enough to open the distribution valves. You can then go around and bleed all screws easily. SRH8505 SRC18015 SRE22493 NAC-05370 www.bristolmotors.com | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 697 Registered: 05-2016 |
Hi Alan, You could try a small plastic cable tie pushed over the bleed tube and pull the cable tie tight at the bleed screw end of the tube. That should hold the tube in place. | ||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 326 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... What about a grease gun tip? They lock onto the nipple, put one of those on a hose,... Just a thought,.... Graham. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 658 Registered: 11-2017 |
use 1/4" clear tubing. A fresh cut on the end will fit tightly over the bleeder. The other end has to be in a vented container. NOTE: just snug the bleeder screw. Overtighten will deform the mating surface and you will never get it to seal. | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 275 Registered: 10-2009 |
I realised from some of the replies (thank you for those, folks) that my problem was because, having a pit/ramp, I did the bleeding from below the car - it seemed the natural thing to do. Today I bled all eight brake nipples by removing the wheels on level ground. It's much easier, though a bit long-winded what with all those wheel nuts and all, but you all know that. I know about tubing and brake-pedal pushers - I've been fixing cars for 65 years - but the availability of the aforementioned pit/ramp led me astray. The delay while getting in and out of the pit meant that the pressure would build during the delay time, and it's easier to hold the tube and twiddle the nipple with the wheel off. If you have not ever tried it from below, don't. Problem solved by making it go away. Thanks for the posts. Alan D. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 699 Registered: 05-2016 |
Hi Alan, I usually bleed the brakes in a pit with the wheels on but not with the engine running. I run the engine for a few minutes to build up pressure, then when I switch it off there's enough accumulator pressure to bleed each brake system. I start at the back and work forward. If the hydraulic pressure becomes depleted during the process I run the engine again for a few minutes, switch it off again and then continue bleeding as before. Of course I keep the engine running when bleeding the height control and shut the engine off again to bleed the pressure switch. You're probably draining the whole system of your special fluid formula and cleaning it through your special strainer before re-using. I would elaborate only I might be accused of infringing patent or copyright regulations! | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 276 Registered: 10-2009 |
Hi Larry, I found the real advantage of "wheels-off" is the ease of access to nipples, especially the top rear cylinders. Depending on the year of manufacture the piping in that area can make access difficult from below - later cars had remote bleed nipples I think. I know my Spirit did. One advantage of Dot5 is that it doesn't need replacing every few years. This need for bleeding was likely caused by a leaking HCV which lost LOTS of fluid (£££) before I spotted it - this Covid business means that both Proper Motor Cars spend long periods in the garage unused. And before someone comments, yes, I do exercise them occasionally. Alan D. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 701 Registered: 05-2016 |
I know what you mean about the upper bleed nipples on the rear Alan, I fitted the longer screws there which helps a little. Hopefully this Covid business will abate soon and we can burn more rubber. | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 278 Registered: 10-2009 |
I just reviewed this subject and can not believe it took me 18 years to discover that it is best to bleed the brakes with wheels off. There is a message there somewhere, and I don't want to see it posted here. The HCVs are a different matter. Alan D. |
