| Author | Message | ||
     David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 136 Registered: 6-2010 |
Apologies if this should be in a different forum, feel free to move it if so. Is there anything in particular that annoys you about your car? Not a fault as such (worn out part or misfire sort of thing) but a design feature that bothers you. For me, it's the wipers. I do like the lovely chrome switch (but why is the function split between it and the column stalk?) but the fact that when you turn the wipers 'off' they then do another 1.8 wipes! I've turned them off because it has stopped raining/drizzling/whatever so the screen is too dry for another 1.8 wipes just so the wipers park prettily! This 'feature' annoys me sooooooooo much I refrain from using the wipers at all unless it's pouring down... though, to be honest, I am so precious about the car, it rarely even sees rain and I get quite stressed just washing it in case it falls apart  So, what 'gets' you about your car? P.S. I love the fancy drivers side wiper with its pantograph linkage, very nice. I do have a 'thing' about wipers and my favourite feature of my R129 SL 500 wasn't the roof or any of its other wonderful features but it was the 'jumping' single wiper... could watch it for hours! | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 342 Registered: 10-2016 |
Hmmm, guess I'd better hide the old HP pen plotter if you ever visit or you won't leave ;>) | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 386 Registered: 11-2015 |
David, Did you ever grease the merc wiper mechanism it's pretty well designed. That's actually a great system, reliable compact, servicable. But, When you lift the arm to do the service it makes an awful cracking noise. I have a high tolerance for automotive bleeting in all forms but that noise made me wince. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1388 Registered: 5-2015 |
The wiper mechanism is a bit over complex and subject to wear hence the problems even when new it wasnt that good. The location of the ACVs, they could have been bolted to the gear box side where there is more room. The steel panel under the rear seat could have been bolted in thus giving good access to the rear suspension and hydraulics. When ever I wash my cars I find things have happened to it.  | ||
| ross kowalski Grand Master Username: cdfpw Post Number: 387 Registered: 11-2015 |
David, What do you mean the function is split between the column stalk and the switch? | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 343 Registered: 10-2016 |
Robert Noel, The beauty of a sheet metal automobile is creating an access panel is easy. When they're round and small (perhaps just large enough to allow passage of a socket extension) they can be readily plugged with a rubber bung from the hardware store. Other times the access hole needs to be a bit larger. In the case of airplanes, 6" round units are pretty common - and handy. This inspection panel was repurposed for mounting an angle of attack probe beneath the right hand wing panel.  -- AoA probe attached to an underwing access panel With respect to a car, when the access panel will be hidden beneath a seat, fabricating a replacement panel that's an inch larger all around, which is subsequently glued over the access hole may be good enough. Since you're covering the hole with a panel that's an inch larger all around, the application of body shop seam sealer and enough screws results in a sufficiently neat appearance. Especially because cosmetics aren't über important when it's hidden by carpet. When the panel will be used occasionally, e.g. it's going to be too much hassle to remove the screws and cut through the seam sealer each time you need access, then it may be useful to create a mounting lip for Dzus or Rivnut fasteners. This can be permanently attached to the body like the patch above or with rivets or welding - depends. Anyway, leaving a 1/2-3/4" overhang would probably suffice (making sure to make the access hole larger enough to compensate for the lip). My Bonanza, for example, has a largish access panel (1'x2') to get to the lower spark plugs (2 per cylinder). The panel attaches to a rim that's been riveted to the fuselage and subsequently attaches with Dzus fasteners. Anyway, after purchasing an airplane (and realized how very handy access panels can be in sheet metal surfaces) I've kept the thought in mind. As for stresses in the body panel, e.g. will the job be strong enough? I've noticed a resemblance between the construction of the nose wheel well of my Bonanza (has to be very strong since this supports the landing loads where the engine is) and my Silver Shadow undercarriage, I wouldn't be afraid in the least of making a panel - not due to fear it wouldn't be strong enough after being reinctalled. Thus, I've had this thought in mind (about possibly requiring an access panel) if the occasion for working on the rear suspension ever presents. That said, based on watching a couple of videos of RR Silver Shadows set up for drifting leaves me feeling warm and fuzzy about the ability of the rear end assembly to capably absorb significant amounts of horsepower). Back to access panels. The largest I've seen came at my suggestion to a friend with a Ford 350 van with a tool box body improperly mounted by welding it in place instead of bolting. The unfortunate consequence (which obviously he didn't realize when he bought the truck) was this precluded ready access to the engine compartment (and probably why he got such a great deal on the truck when he bought it). Anyway, believe it or not, the Ford shop manual calls for removing about a dozen mounting bolts and lifting off the entire body and cab when serious work is required on the engine - I know because my friend had the factory service manual. Worse, it allows a mere 5 hours for the task, which may happen in the world they live in, e.g. brand new perfectly clean assemblies without rusty bolts, but not in any world I inhabit, but I digress. Anyway, my friend removed the seats and carpet, cut two huge access panels (2'x3'), welded in a lip on the perimeter of each and used rivnuts to replace the panel. This afforded him ready access to the engine bay for a diesel engine with a proclivity for killing injectors. -- John | ||
| Michael Carr Experienced User Username: carsie Post Number: 19 Registered: 7-2016 |
So John, In the next couple of months I'm going to be addressing renewing the brake pipes that I mentioned when I introduced myself. There is a Gent across on RetroRides who has a masochism for welding a Silver Spirit and has generously provided the following under belly view which I guess is the same as the Shadow(?) and therefore indicative of where I need to cut and therein provide access to aforesaid cross member/axle brake pipes. I would really appreciate your comments before going in with scalpel...  | ||
| John Beech Grand Master Username: jbeech Post Number: 346 Registered: 10-2016 |
Are you talking about R&R the brake lines over the rear axle area? I have a memory of reading a suggestion of removing the back seat and taking a angle grinder equipped with a cutoff disk to the screws securing the brake lines as close to flush as possible. Then take a punch and remove the remaining screw. However, since I've not done this job I really cannot comment further. That said, might it be easier to just drop the entire rear suspension - complete with crossmember, differential, swing arms, axles, and shocks to expose the work area? Someone here's done the job and can comment more intelligently. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1392 Registered: 5-2015 |
John The shadows have wood ruff keyed tapers on the drive shafts which are a weak spot. I have modified car bodies with access in mind usually on vans or sports cars. My method is to cot the holes then using 3mm steel strips with welded nuts welded around the hole thus giving a solid fixing. !/4 unf or M6 say. The covel panel I like to swage around the edges troughs in the middle to add "shape strength" to the panel. Black gloss paint and the jobs looks factory. I am the redneck who explained about the pipe clips. Under the rear seat is the seat pan panel. On this panel are black plastic covers for the self tapping screws that hold the metal brake pipes in place. Taking the entire rear suspension out is not a job for the faint hearted. My car has perfect suspension geometry and removing and refitting the main cross member risks upsetting that geometry. However if just the final drive is removed access becomes easier Maybe.} | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1460 Registered: 4-2016 |
As I had never seen the SL500 wiper David mentions, I thought I had better take a look. Check out the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKGhKrQmK68 | ||
| David Towers Prolific User Username: xtriple Post Number: 137 Registered: 6-2010 |
That wiper mechanism is a work of art! Yes, I did strip, clean and re-grease mine and was most impressed with the way it was made. However, MB parts prices rival RR - £460 for a wiper relay! | ||
| Mark Luft Frequent User Username: bentleyman1993 Post Number: 56 Registered: 10-2016 |
I was bothered that my Turbo R LWB did not have a cup holder. Also that I had to have the drivers seat moved back 2". Now I admit I'm a big guy, 5'9" 300Lb, but I thought that a car this large would have more room up front. When I drive my 2007 Mini, I actually have to move the seat forward, so much room. | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 307 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Mark How did you move your seat 2" back? Cheers Mike | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1469 Registered: 4-2016 |
The two things that annoy me most are. 1) the cheap crap rubber trim piece that just sits on top of the steering column. 2) the very badly finished and trimmed box where the rear view mirror is, and the ends of the non swingable sun visors sit. I still don't know why these were not designed to swing around the sun visors, old Holdens from the 50's had these. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1283 Registered: 9-2004 |
What I find annoying is the Door hinge closure rubbers not fitting when the door is open. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 1397 Registered: 5-2015 |
I am just annoyed. | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 1286 Registered: 9-2004 |
Here is a picture of the offending annoyance.  Here is the rubber fitting correctly.  Close the doors and then open up again and it's back not fitting. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 63 Registered: 5-2016 |
Passenger door mirror does not come as a standard item, that's one failing. Some of the spark plugs can be difficult to remove and even harder to replace. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1474 Registered: 4-2016 |
Yep Those rubbers are shockers Patrick. Either fit them properly, or don't fit them at all. I have this same discussion with our truck building factories. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1475 Registered: 4-2016 |
I'll second that Larry. Air cleaner side, not to bad, hydraulic side  | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1176 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Patrick, you said: 2) the very badly finished and trimmed box where the rear view mirror is, and the ends of the non swingable sun visors sit. My Wraith II has swingable sunvisors. Why dont you have them on your Shadow? you can alwyas retrofit from a junker car and have that rather simple feature. Who knows maybe you actually have swingable visors but have never tried swinging them? they do get hard to swing if you have not used them much. Omar | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 1177 Registered: 4-2009 |
My pet hate on the shadow II series cars is the stupid gaiters on the steering rack. full disassembly needed to replace those buggers. Shoot the twat who designed that please....... | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1478 Registered: 4-2016 |
Hi Omar, Early Shadow visors don't have the swing feature. I will look up the chassis number bible to see when they appeared. | ||
| Jeff McCarthy Grand Master Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 483 Registered: 5-2007 |
Therein lies a tale Patrick. The '70s were the heyday of jobsworths making nitpicking changes in the rules (while missing the bigger picture). RR were required after a couple of years into the SS to remove all chrome from the interior if it could be seen by the driver - the glint of sunlight might have distracted the poor souls! Nowadays, of course, we have cinema screens and telephone exchanges built into the dash to do that for us. The swing visors were removed when the padding was added to the Chippendale dash for 'safety' reasons because they had metal hinges. The woeful later Shadow series one visors were designed (in a hurry?) by an Australian - and moreover a fellow countryman who didn't pay attention when they were teaching Archimedes 101 in School: the leverage arrangement pulls the A pillar trim away from the metal and the whole thing is held in place with a piece of nylon bushing; the pivot in the centre depends on a very small washer tab. Retrofitting the earlier visors involves a bit of trim work and some captive nuts - the holes for them are still there in the cantrail. | ||
| Patrick Francis Frequent User Username: jackpot Post Number: 88 Registered: 11-2016 |
Annoying that modern day 12v charge plugs do not work in the cigar lighter sockets of the Shadow 1. This is because the Shadow sockets have 12v positive only on the gripping prongs that hold the lighter when it is pushed in, not on the base. Oh yes - and also that it doesn't do 35 MPG, or even 20 for that matter. | ||
| Patrick Ryan Grand Master Username: patrick_r Post Number: 1479 Registered: 4-2016 |
Have to agree with you there Jeff, Even the drop down feature is tough. Mine is ok, but I have seen many a Shadow visor with contact cement oozing out of the glued together seems all around the edges. I'm guessing they just fell apart as the years went on? I checked what you said, and wow, I didn't know that the Chippendale Shadows had the normal swing mirrors. Here is a good pic I found  Even though the below pic is not may car, it shows the typical poor quality visors, with bad padding, and just glued together. The box in the middle on my car looks like a badly wrapped birthday present.  | ||
| Mark Luft Frequent User Username: bentleyman1993 Post Number: 57 Registered: 10-2016 |
Michael, my indie removed the drivers seat and re-mounted it on hand made "rails" in order to move the seat back. It works great. The car is getting a state inspection this week, when it gets back, I'll take a photo if you want. Mark | ||
| michael vass Grand Master Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 309 Registered: 7-2015 |
Thanks Mark A photo would be great. I can get comfortable but have to have the seat reclined a lot and right back and find the seat is loose in the runners when all the way back ie not all the way in the slot. Cheers Mike | ||
| Michael Carr Experienced User Username: carsie Post Number: 21 Registered: 7-2016 |
"I am the redneck who explained about the pipe clips." Robert ..nothing Redneck about what you're saying in my book - thanks for re-affirming my plan of attack |
