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richard george yeaman
Grand Master
Username: richyrich

Post Number: 463
Registered: 4-2012
Posted on Friday, 19 February, 2016 - 01:46:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Received a Shadow 11 Oil filter housing in the post today and ordered a filter from Flying Spares. The main reason for this upgrade is to make oil changes less messy than it is at present I don't have use of a garage ramp and warm oil running down ones arm has lost its appeal.

Richard.
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Randy Roberson
Grand Master
Username: wascator

Post Number: 621
Registered: 5-2009
Posted on Friday, 19 February, 2016 - 04:31:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I did this a couple years ago; recommended but not absolutely necessary of course.
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Robert Noel Reddington
Grand Master
Username: bob_uk

Post Number: 867
Registered: 5-2015
Posted on Friday, 26 February, 2016 - 10:35:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Least messy way is to remove centre bolt and hold filter against filter head until the oil has drained. Sometimes the filter just stays on with out the centre bolt.

The spin on is easier but almost just as messy.

A problem that is going to happen is the Shadow 1 element will be unavailable or very expensive. Nearly 30 quid now.

I am resigned to having to do this job in the future. I have 2 new filters in stock in my man cave. The present filter has done 2500 miles so in 15000 miles time I will be looking for a filter given that I usually only do 3000 miles a year 5 years time wise. Crossland filters. I think I will buy another spare filter from my local guy. Bearing in mind RR policy of over engineering may mean that a filter would probably be OK up to double recommend mileage which is 6000 miles. I use LPG so I reckon I could stretch to 7500 miles. The oil at 2500 miles looks like new oil, isn't though and colour is not the only thing that changes as engine oil is used the additives wear out so it must be changed main concern is the camshaft to lifter area. Every engine manufacturer in the early days including RR had problems here. RR was about the first to get it right though. RR assisted Chysler with their tappet materials. Cam shaft failure on the RR V8 is a real worry and therefore I change engine oil every 6000 miles as instructed on the filler cap.

I had a good look at this area of the engine with a view to removal and refitting and the access is tight but doable with extensions and wobble bars. Also gives access for a bit of engine cleaning.

The spin on filter works no better or worse than the element type.

Using a worm drive clip a broken speaker magnet affixed to the outside of the filter seems to work as further entrapment of ferris based debris. Bits of cam shaft --- hopefully not.

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