| Author | Message | ||
     Tim H Unregistered guest Posted From: 220.237.3.2 |
Hello RRer's, I have come to the time of my life where I 'need' to acquire my first project car! Just wondering if a Silver Shadow, which are quite affordable for what they are, would fit the bill. I most certainly do not have a large surplus of funds, so am somewhat hesitant as to the cost and availability of spares for such a car. I would be looking at the lower end of the market for my purchase of the car too (<$20k). I am aware that I won't be buying a 'mint' example, but am happy to put in time and work on the car. I am also aware that old cars do need things replacing from time to time to keep them running and reliable, which leads back to the question about cost and availability of parts  From what I have read on the forums they are a relatively straight forward car to work on for a DIY'er and once sorted are rather reliable too. Any opinions, thoughts, warnings or otherwise are welcome. Thanks, Tim. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1665 Registered: 4-2003 |
Shadow Purchase Rule 101: Every extra Dollar you spend acquiring a second-hand car will save you at least double the cost in future repairs. Cheap Shadows are cheap for the simple reason they require expensive repairs. If you are a competent DIY person with better workshop facilities than a basic home garage, adequate financial reserves and lots of patience then and only then should you contemplate the purchase of a cheap Shadow. Just search the Silver Shadow section of this forum to see what problems can be experienced and what is involved in rectifying them. If your ambition is too strong to resist then I suggest you consider purchasing a RROC[Australia] Club Member's vehicle as this will be a known vehicle. Regardless of where you acquire the vehicle, an inspection by an acknowledged R-R specialist is pre-requisite before handing over any money so you have an idea of what work is required and the overall condition of the vehicle. If it is not an locally delivered car, be very careful of imported vehicles as these often have [or have had] severe corrosion problems and/or abnormal operating conditions causing greater wear than would be expected from the mileage [e.g. Hong Kong delivered vehicles]. Hasten slowly and do your homework well before purchasing. | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 90 Registered: 9-2013 |
Tim, Have a look at, for example, www.flyingspares.com for prices of spare parts. RR sourced a lot of the sub-components from mass producers: the gearbox is GM Turbo 400, the AC compressor is Harrison A6 (GM again), the hydraulics are Citroen. On Spirits/Spurs/Turbo-R, the fuel injection is Bosch Jetronic, build millions of times. You need to know how experienced you are as a mechanic. If you need to go to a shop to have your work performed, then you will need to have large surplus of funds, to use your terminology. The systems and the servicing thereof can be learned, even the hydraulics are understandable. Complex but not complicated. The worksop manuals are found here ''rrtechnical.info'' (no www in front). See for yourself if this is language you're able to understand. Then, those cars are pussycats to work on, very collaborative in a mechanical sense, and very rarely are children's hands needed to reach into hard-to-access places. Also, if you are not very, very proficient with metal, than don't get an example with corrosion to take care of! For 20K you'll already get a daily good Shadow. You may also want to consider SZ-series (Spirit/Spur). They are more robust as daily drivers and contain many mechanical updates. All those cars have remarkably few weak spots. Only engineering mistake were the steering racks, they have a tendency to leak, and replacement is some 500USD. Survivable, nevertheless annoying. Hope this helps! JP | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1573 Registered: 4-2003 |
Rather refreshing - where are you? | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 91 Registered: 9-2013 |
Bill, if you mean me, I'm in Luxembourg, Europa (not too far from Greece but far enough) | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1432 Registered: 6-2009 |
While I will not deny that one can generally save quite a bit of money and, perhaps, more heartache by buying "the best example one can afford" in any Rolls-Royce, but particularly a Silver Shadow, I'm going to be the semi-contrarian. Both of my cars fall into the category of "project cars." I never intended to buy a car that would not be "driver quality" when I was done with the work it needed and that's the path I followed. My 1978 Shadow II, which is a RHD-to-LHD conversion and is far from original as a result was my first car. When I bought it in 2006 I paid $13K US for the car and it was running and could be driven, but definitely had a lot of deferred maintenance. It was not, however, a "basket case" and has been quite reliable and only gotten more so. There are plenty of posts on this forum regarding issues I have encountered and tackled, but the car has generally been "on the road" except for the period where I was working on the accumulators, accumulator control valves, and some brake line replacement over a period of months. My second car was purchased for $5K US in January 2012 and had been well-maintained until its owner became ill and stopped driving it approximately 5 years prior to his death. It was largely original except for a few stupid things done to it when the widow was trying to get the car running again and couldn't. I was about 90% (probably even a bit more) of the way to having her back on the road before I lost the garage in which I had been staging "the revival from the dead" and other life issues took priority. These cars, while complex, are not "rocket science" and can be worked on by anyone with reasonable mechanical abilities, safety consciousness, determination, willingness to delve into documentation and ask for help, and the ability to walk away for a while if they find their frustration building to the, "I'm either going to hurt the car or myself," stage when working on it. I've been learning as I go along. Anyone who doesn't already know these cars intimately is going to have to do the same, particularly if they have one of these darlings in a location far, far from any population center that has one or more mechanics who know these cars. Everyone says to avoid cars without a service history, and it's marvelous if you can find an example where you have one, but the fact is those examples are the exception rather than the rule. "Old maintenance" (more than 5 years) is really meaningless other than as an indication that the previous owner did care for the car. "New maintenance" is what's critical, and can tell you whether you have a car that's actively been tended to and driven rather than parked in a garage/barn/storage unit and treated like a piece of rolling sculpture. While a great deal of caution needs to be exercised, and realistic expectations set, it is possible to get one of these cars that has extremely "good bones" but that will need significant recomissioning before being roadworthy again. Even given the lack of brevity of the above, the preceding is an example of the wisdom of Robert Heppe: A sensible person realizes that all principles that can be expressed in a statement of finite length are oversimplified. Brian | ||
| Tim H Unregistered guest Posted From: 220.237.3.2 |
Hi all, Thanks for the replies and info. I shall certainly do some more reading (have already been trying to do a bunch) and homework. David- I thought that that would probably be the case, I most certainly shall get anything I am seriously interested in inspected. I have found Matt's Automotive and RA Chapman who do inspections in Melbourne, any other recommendations are of course welcome (that answers your question Bill! - Melbourne, Aus.) JP, thanks for the manuals, they don't look too daunting. I'm going to have to learn about carbs and distributors ( all of my car ownership has been in the 21st century, and most Shadows are 15+ years older than me). I had also looked at the Spirit/Spur series, but they don't move me like the shadow does (well maybe a Bentley Turbo R). Cheers, Tim. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob Reynolds Prolific User Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 277 Registered: 8-2012 |
For me, the most important tip is to buy a car that has been driven regularly; right up to the point of sale. Don't buy a car that has been standing, not even for 6 months. There's nothing worse than to leave one of these cars standing unused for any length of time. They will rapidly deteriorate. Other than that, I would say go for it. Driving these cars on the road makes you feel like a king! Nothing beats the gravitas of arriving at your destination in a classic Rolls-Royce! | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 475 Registered: 4-2009 |
I dont think there is a Shadow on earth that has not had a 6 month+ period of not being touched. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1434 Registered: 6-2009 |
Omar, My experience suggests your observation is correct. A great many club members who live in northern climates routinely "put the car away for the winter" for a period of six months or longer. The mileages on every SY car I've ever seen, save one, indicate that there have to have been extended periods of storage. SRH33576 has a bit over 90K miles on her after 37 years, which [shockingly, in my opinion] I repeatedly hear called "high mileage." LRK37110 has traveled only a bit over 26K miles since 1979. Bob is absolutely correct that the worst thing you can do for these cars (and any car, really) is to allow them to stand unused for extended periods of time. I have yet to see a Rolls-Royce (and a single Bentley exception) that hasn't suffered that fate. Many seem to purchase these cars purely as status symbols and then treat them like precious porcelain figurines. I knew of one early 1970s Shadow that ended up garage-bound after a keying incident. The owner was so paranoid about the car that his wife commented to me when I moved very close to take a look at it, "Don't touch it, he'll see the marks in the dust." Sad, ridiculous, and destructive. Brian | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 208 Registered: 5-2015 |
$20k should buy a good Shadow. Find a car walk round it. If you like what you see go for 100 mile test drive. If you still like the car then 4 axle stands wheels off etc. Check everything. Lift carpets etc. Especially the brakes. 90 pumps till lights come on. Once you have exceeded your level of car expertise get a mechanic to check. If you want a mint condition Shadow then buy one that is mint. Don't buy a tatty one and try to make it mint. Because for example the rear bumper centre section is $1000. If buying a Shadow 1 check bumpers around the bolts at the back. The Shadow 2 has black bumpers and a steering rack. Which tends to leak and the problem has never been entirely resolved. The Shadow 1 has a steering box which doesn't leak. The Spirit is a better car the same as a Shadow is better than a cloud. Whoops just upset Cloud owners. Remember that everything is available at a price. The prices of parts are more expensive than Ford etc. But cheaper than Ferrari or Porsche. When listening to Engines the RR V8 is noisey when cold after 5 miles the engine must be quiet. £10000 pounds to rebuild. The value of Shadows is not effected by the year. My car SRH 17768 1974 has 116k miles I have owned the car since 1989. 26 years. Mileage, the youngest Shadow 1980 is 35 years old. So 100k miles is normal. Myths surround these cars. They do break down as any 40 year car will. My car has never failed to proceed. But I am a retired motor mechanic with a workshop manual and a big man cave with lots of tools. The hydraulic system is actually no more complicated than modern abs brakes. And the system IS reliable once maintained properly. I serviced in depth my brakes in 1993 ish. And since then just fluid changes and pads and rusty brake pipes. The hydraulics are best maintained by using the car. These are Robust cars and the engine is under stressed so driving the car fast won't damage the car. I use mine even for carrying rubbish to the dump. My grand children wipe sticky fingers over the wood work etc. A bit of polish and it's good again. Always size up the vendor. A vendor who lives in a caravan might not have the money to maintain a RR. | ||
| Paul White New User Username: pjcwhite Post Number: 8 Registered: 2-2015 |
Hi Tim H, welcome fellow Melbournian !. I can reiterate what others have said about getting a pre-inspection as well as a service history if possible. I bought my 1979 SSII SRH39187 last November. Looked at a few for sale and found a good example eventually. Not perfect, but excellent leather and paint.  It did the drive from Adelaide to Melbourne (800kms odd) with no issues as a test. It's not a daily driver, so I can fix most things myself and it's fun to work on (part of the reason for buying it). I've owned and worked on a Jaguar previously and the SSII is no more difficult (so far). The info available online and on this forum is very useful. I was lucky with the Jag there was a Haynes manual too. Best of luck with the search. cheers Paul | ||
| Tim H Unregistered guest Posted From: 220.237.3.2 |
Brian, Thanks for the other side of the coin on this one. Ideally I would like a 'driver' that needs some love to get it back to good shape. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Experienced User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 13 Registered: 4-2015 |
If stupid questions are allowed, I have one. Can those who assert that the worst thing to do is to not use the car for extended periods since things tend to deteriorate, please elaborate with specifics? To me this sounds something like milk going bad, but I suspect that the actual truth is neither quite so predictable, nor so permanent. Could there please be a recital of a litany of specific things that go bad or deteorate from sitting without use... presumably in some sort of semi-catastrophic fashion? I will start the list with gasoline, I suppose, but what else? Personally, I have about a half-dozen examples, Phantom I to Spur, but only rotate them as the daily driver every six months or so, meaning that they all "sit" somethimes for years in between usage. I suppose that so far I have been lucky (and I do not intend to invoke the Devil's wrath by seeming to be smug) as other than dead batteries and flat tires, they always "come back to life" with the same problems they had when put away, and none others. So...the list? | ||
| Tim H Unregistered guest Posted From: 114.78.169.15 |
Thanks to all the latest replies, I haven't been able to keep up with replies to everyone in real time as posting as a guest until my registration goes through. Tim (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1437 Registered: 6-2009 |
Christian, Ask any mechanical engineer about any mechanical device and they'll tell you the same thing. You ask for specifics, but it will vary from car to car, and it's neither predictable (different ones have different issues) nor permanent (some things can be "driven out" while others require active repair). My classic example, when asked, is electric windows, seats, sunroofs, and the like will almost invariably stop functioning if not used for extended periods. Things "get sticky" if not used and these are classic examples. Engine bits that are supposed to be bathed in oil aren't, and can also become sticky, think lifters (and can usually be driven back to health if that's the issue). Fluids don't flow, crud gathers, etc. Cooling systems that sit idle, if they aren't filled with coolant that's been attended to and still has its anticorrosion pack working, also tend to get sludgy and/or develop pin holes. I've posted photographs of what the interior of a Shadow hydraulic reservoir becomes after extended periods of idleness (and by extended I mean far longer than six months). The accumulator control valves and pressure switches both can get "sludgy" and non-functional. I think Paul Walters has posted photos of ACVs that he had to resleeve with their "before and after" photos, as these tend to pit when allowed to sit for extended periods with unfresh RR363 inside them. It also seems to me, and this has varied by car, that door seals, trunk/boot seals, etc., will often take a set and stop functioning as intended if they are not allowed the occasional expansion/contraction that comes with actually opening and closing the things. It only makes sense that as the systems become more complex that there is more that can go wrong, whether it actually does or not on a given automobile. I can tell you that the more I drove SRH33576 the better she got. Some of this was because driving allowed me to find certain deferred maintenance and perform it. Some of it was because things that hadn't really been in motion much got worked out to a far greater degree and behaved better as a result. I can't get any more specific than above. I know I'm encountering the same sorts of things (particularly with regard to the window motors) with LRK37110 and will probably have to revisit some of the "revival from the dead" repairs I've already made since things have been stalled long enough now that a couple of those bits have probably become problematic again. Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1666 Registered: 4-2003 |
My experience with DRH14434 was very similar to what Brian has described above. Father-in-law was frightened to drive it on the road in case someone damaged the car. When I assumed custodianship after his death, it was a "basket case" with numerous problems similar to those described by Brian. Once these were remedied and the vehicle driven at least several times a week, the car improved out-of-sight and was even better after several long trips of 1000/1500 kilometres. My philsophy "better to wear out from regular use than rust out from lack of use". | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 221 Registered: 5-2015 |
I think garage Queens are daft. The car sits there under a cover the owner can't even see it. The owner only pleasure is that he owns a RR. Better off and cheaper to buy scale models. Then he can have a fleet of them. I have recommissioned a few cars over the years. And everytime as the miles built up the car ran better the rubber bits start to remember that they are rubber. Things like wiper motors start to work better. The first 100 miles is very noticeable in the difference. Or the car plays up as things fall off. I know of a few cars that were good when last used but 10 years later the car is scrap. I saw a car with a bush growing inside the car. I saw a Shadow 2 stored outside with rusty wheel arches non runner £4000. It's cars like this that can hide alsorts of expensive faults. However the best way woth this car is to start the car and see what's wrong before buying. No go no buy. It so easy to spend another 4000 quid. On exhaust tyres and brakes. Then one finds the say the rads choked and the aircon isn't working. The list is endless. 10k quid buys a good Shadow or Spirit which should be capable of daily use with weekly normal under bonnet checks. UK prices. 100k miles normal. Cars with low miles are a mixed bag. Depends on how the car has been recommissioned. Some just drive them round the block a couple of times. Some do a proper job with new tyres etc. And drive for 200 miles or so. Cars with other makers engines fitted are worth only a small fraction of a wholly Shadow. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 476 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Bob, I am inyteretsed in your last statement about alternative engines. From what I have seen, the population of cars that don't still have a Crewe engine are less than 0.5%. Very few people attempt to put alternative engines in these cars. If I am wrong I would be keen to see these installations. I saw one such car only a few months ago - it had a Chevy V8 under the bonnet and an ordinary servo assisted brake booster to deal with the brakes. This car was a Turbo R and had Continental R lights and boot grafted onto its original body. All that hard work and he has a lesser car than what he started off with. | ||
| Peter Davidson New User Username: pedrotheswift Post Number: 8 Registered: 7-2004 |
I have a 1969 Bentley T type sbh5495 that I use at least once a week year round and try to do at least 100 kilometres(100miles) though it's usually more.i think the more you use them the better | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 222 Registered: 5-2015 |
Omar, its the same with Jags. A Jag with a chevy engine is devalued big time. | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Experienced User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 16 Registered: 4-2015 |
I am the last one who can justify not driving one's favorite Rolls-Royce as often as possible. If I cannot come up with a pretext to drive one of the lovelies daily, I get a nervous twitch above one eye. Whether or not the car gets better with use is not so much the issue, it is that I know that I do. Honestly, I have on occasion split my grocery list in two and driven to two stores on opposite sides of town just to get my daily Rolls-Royce "fix" and prolong the experience. Admire the wood, stroke the leather, caress the carpets, adjust the flying lady, etc. Often as late at night as possible in order to avoid the maddening crowds. | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Experienced User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 18 Registered: 4-2015 |
Directed back to "Tim H", the original poster and considering that the post has gone a bit off topic...the question remains as to what you, Tim, are looking for when you say "project car"? Are you implying: 1) that you want a car that needs a lot of work, or 2) that you are capable of doing any work that should in time become necessary? My honest opinion is that you would be well advised to purchase a well running specimen rather than one that is cheap, but will require inestimable repairs to even get running. Big Mistake. That may be OK for a second car, but as an introduction to the priceless pleasures derived from actually driving a Rolls-Royce, do yourself a favor and get a well running model with decent or above cosmetics, that will give you immediate gratification. In your stated price range, or even for double, no matter what you purchase, there will be a list of things that can be repaired or improved and that is when your desire for a project car, as being one that you can learn about and effect the repairs upon yourself, will come into play. If on the otherhand you get a non-runner, you will spend months or more of likely frustrated learning and fixing without the actual realization of "why" you are going to all the trouble, and there is every liklihood that without that immediate gratification, you will eventually become disillusioned without ever experiencing the real excitement of climbing into YOUR Rolls-Royce, driving it, admiring it as you park and walk away, and again as you come out of the store, catch that first glimpse, heart skips, ah! there you are my lovely! Who's the lucky guy? Me!! You get in and glide away. Seriously, go for the immediate gratification. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1449 Registered: 6-2009 |
Tim, And I do agree, without reservation, with Christian that a first-timer (in particular) should only consider buying a car that can be driven immediately (or very close to it). My second car has been a long slog, but I knew exactly what I was getting into when I purchased it. My biggest period of frustration has always been those times when neither car was able to be driven. Though those have been relatively few, the frustration of having any car that you cannot drive, and don't know when or if you will ever be able to drive, is real and should not be ignored. Brian | ||
| Tim H Unregistered guest Posted From: 114.78.169.15 |
Hi Christian and Brian, I possibly should have been more precise as to my definition of 'project'. Certainly after a 'driver' so your option 2 Christian, looking for something that I can work and learn on over time as things occur, rather than a project that might never even get out of the garage. You summed this up perfectly for me here; "In your stated price range, or even for double, no matter what you purchase, there will be a list of things that can be repaired or improved and that is when your desire for a project car, as being one that you can learn about and effect the repairs upon yourself, will come into play." So the hunt for a car begins! On a related note, I'm guessing that I'm going to need to acquire imperial measurement spanners and sockets etc.? (please don't tell me RR used witworth!) The majority of my tools are metric. Thanks once again, Tim. PS. Thanks for the email Brian. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1668 Registered: 4-2003 |
Tim, Try and find a tool shop that stocks "Metrinch" spanner and socket sets - worth their weight in gold as they work equally on Imperial and Metric fasteners as well as any fastener that has been "butchered" with rounded corners that cause conventional tools to slip: http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Metrinch Also suggest you buy a set of BA taps and dies for refurbishing the large number of BA fasteners used by Rolls-Royce Motor Cars over the decades. These are readily available from suppliers catering for the model engineering fraternity. | ||
| Tim Hobbs Yet to post message Username: tch Post Number: 1 Registered: 6-2015 |
Hi David, I wasn't familiar with the Metrinch products, certainly worth a look. They look like an interesting concept if nothing else. Thanks. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1669 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Tim, I swear by them - have got me out of trouble many times and they are good quality as they are made in the USA and not the Third World. I can give you details of the model engineers' suppliers if you need some local sources. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1455 Registered: 6-2009 |
David, I notice that Metrinch sockets seem to have changed style over time. The NOS (or used) ones I'm running into look far more like a conventional socket and even the diagram on their materials makes it seem like the "points" within the socket alternate between metric and inch. The newer ones have a "wave style" not unlike the closed end wrenches do. If you happen to own both styles, is one preferable to the other? If not, are you using the original design sockets or the newer ones? Brian, who's been thinking about getting some of these for some time now | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1671 Registered: 4-2003 |
Brian, Will photograph examples of my Metrinch sockets and spanners when I get home tonight and post them here. I have never noticed any unevenness in the "points" - my sets are about 15 years old. Kincrome recently released a similar type of socket under the "Lok-On" designation, I have not looked at let alone tested this product but it looks like a metrinch clone from the illustrations. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1459 Registered: 6-2009 |
David, Much appreciated. Here's an "original" Metrinch socket set picture, including the box:  while here's a photo of the current Metrinch socket style next to two Craftsman conventional sockets:  You can clearly see that Metrinch has changed its socket design at some point. Brian | ||
| Bob Reynolds Prolific User Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 279 Registered: 8-2012 |
These things look like a cost-cutting bodge to me. Use properly-sized metric or imperial 6-sided sockets to prevent the corners of the nuts being rounded off. 12-sided sockets like this are a recipe for disaster on old and corroded nuts. (Ducks for cover)  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1675 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bob, I presume you are referring to what we call impact sockets and not basic sockets which are prone to damaging recalcitrant fastener heads/nuts. If I cannot undo difficult fasteners, I use the Metrinch tools or my rattle gun and impact sockets as appropriate to the degree of difficulty. Brian, My tools died of shame when they saw yours - they have now submitted a log of claims for revised working conditions in future. Management has responded saying any expenditure in the current economic climate has been frozen until conditions stabilise. Photos of my Metrinch open/ring spanner and socket tools are below:  | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1461 Registered: 6-2009 |
David, Those photos are not of my tools, which look much more like yours (that is, actually used repeatedly for their intended purpose) than the photos I snagged for illustrative purposes. It definitely appears that your socket set uses the "more recent" Metrinch design which mimics the closed end wrench. I find the original design somewhat suspect since, if the illustration is correct, you would have to rotate the socket to "the correct fitment" which could be quite tricky for some fasteners. The newer "wave" design would appear to coast into correct position as the socket is turned (and, probably, release very easily when the work is done). I don't own a single impact socket and have never used them. I've owned a lot of 12-sided and 6-sided sockets (and still do) and have very seldom found one style superior to the other. With rare exceptions I prefer the 12-sided to 6-sided because one can usually get easier positioning on the ratchet when tight spaces are involved. Everyone I've known who's used them loves Metrinch tools and they're very tempting because all my newer vehicles are metric measure while both of the RRs predate the Era of Metric Fasteners. Brian | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 251 Registered: 5-2015 |
Metric inch stuff is corner drive. They are good quality and I use them no problems. Try second hand tool shops and market stalls. Lots of bargins. | ||
| Tim Hobbs New User Username: tch Post Number: 2 Registered: 6-2015 |
Hi all, Until now I hadn't actually driven a Shadow but loved to idea of something rarely seen and hand crafted by skilled individuals. I inquired about one that had piqued my interest, and headed over to have a look over the car and take it for a drive. Unfortunately there was no 'zing', no warm fuzzy feeling, despite the fact that I really tried to like the car. Loved the colour, the look and the interior, but found the driving experience less than inspiring. I can certainly see the appeal, but at least at the moment, I think it isn't for me. Maybe a Bentley Turbo R one day? They seem as though they would be more geared towards the driver rather than the passenger (but out of my price range for now) Not sure where my project car itch will take me now, maybe a Jaguar? Would love a Morgan one day (he dreams!). Anyway, a big thanks once again for all the advice and the warm welcome. Seems like a great community here. Tim. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 480 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Tim, Turbo Rs are amazing cars. They should be cheaper than Shadows. Certainly in my country they are. when you drive one - you will fall in love. I srongly urge you to a) find out for yourself that indeed they are cheaper than Shadows and b) to take one for a test drive whilst enjoying the "fun pedal". When this is done i will be interetsetd to know if you think this car is bland. I have a Shadow and a Turbo R; the cars are chalk and cheese to me. Omar | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 481 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Tim, A word of caution. Don't buy anything older than 1986. The carburetor cars give their owners more trouble than the injected cars. Speaking only for myself and this is only a personal opinion - I would not want a carburetor turbo car if it was given to me for free. Omar | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 852 Registered: 5-2012 |
Hi Tim, You are absolutely right to walk away, as the car didn't feel right for you. For my part, I experienced the opposite. On test driving a Silver Shadow for the first time I knew straightaway it just felt right. Loved it. I think this is the key. You mentioned Jaguar cars. Have you considered buying a more recent car? XKRs and XJRs are going at really low prices at the moment. Let us know what you finally decide on. Regards Geoff | ||
| Christian S. Hansen Experienced User Username: enquiring_mind Post Number: 27 Registered: 4-2015 |
Tim... I propose that what you have noted is a difference in expectations. You are apparently more enamored of a "zip" rather than a "glide"...what you noted as driver vs passenger experience. When I was younger, my "go to" car was the Jaguar XKE and my foot was all pedal. Even in my Mk6 Bentley, the passengers would often ask if I could please slow down a bit. Fast forward 40 years and at my current age I am no longer in such a hurry, instead prefering to prolong the experience and to enjoy the "glide", along with the occasional request that perhaps we could go a bit faster. Enjoy the "fast" side of the fence as long as you can! Good luck. | ||
| Tim Hobbs New User Username: tch Post Number: 3 Registered: 6-2015 |
Hi Omar, unfortunately a Turbo R is probably the best part of $10K more than a similar condition Shadow here, at least from my observations over the last couple of months. Didn't know about the carburettor Turbos, thanks for the heads up. Geoff, I really wanted to like the car but unfortunately that wasn't how it panned out. I hadn't actually though about the newer Jaguars to be honest, certainly worth a look. I think I have a soft spot for older, well kept cars, but time will tell! Christian, I think I shall be following the 'zip' path for a while, although certainly glad I did at least entertain the idea floating along in luxury though. Cheers! | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1531 Registered: 6-2009 |
Tim, If you wish to follow the *zip* path for a while you won't go wrong with a V8 Jaguar, whether turbocharged or not. I would stick with looking at cars post-2000 since there were issues with the early AJ-V8 timing chain tensioners, water pumps, and a couple of other bits. These can be resolved, but are expensive to resolve and you're not likely to have any information on whether a previous owner did so. I owned a 1999 XJ8L that I dearly loved and that I sold to a friend who's still driving it. The Jaguars that were produced after Ford bought the company, removed Lucas electrical components, and got serious about quality control are seriously great cars that are also incredibly reliable. You also get to ride along in luxury (though you don't waft/float) and have incredible performance and handling at the same time. Brian | ||
| Vladimir Ivanovich Kirillov Prolific User Username: soviet Post Number: 287 Registered: 2-2013 |
Ah spanners. Something to talk about. Still interesting after all these decades. When I buy a spanner, if the spanner lets me down, I never forget the brand and am hesitant to spend another cent on that brand. Snap-on appears to tout itself as the RR/B of the spanner world. When I win the lottery which will be in some far far away galaxy at the end of infinite time, I will by snap-on. Kinchrome. I have a floor jack brand new. I have used it many times. It is great. So great is it that I warned the rep who sold it to me that if he really wanted to be a junk merchant he should announce it and that he really wanted to sell nothing in that town to mechanics in the know he should keep selling that type of jack. It does get the car up off the ground if you can ignore the frustration every time you use it to raise the vehicle and that frustration gets me to the point that I want dearly to purchase another jack and then cut this jack in two pieces with a gas axe. Some of the best spanners I ever bought were probably stolen by the heroin addicts I bought them off in Manhattan. Indestro well spelt something like that and a whole mob of USA made spanners all different brands I found to be really good stuff. Sidchrome "you canna hanna a man a better spanner." Actually you can. Sidchrome was sharp edged in 1960-70s mongrel spanner very hard on a tradesmans hands. Late model Sidchrome seems better - its probably made in Taiwan. I have worn out the tip of my Snap on Phillips head screw driver. Perhaps they will replace it. I have caught Snap on trying to get out of their warranty waffle before. My method of telling whether a spanner is good is to use it for sometime and load the mongrel up. If it survives my treatment then its a good spanner. Good spanners come and go. Oh and let me just give Snap on another plug for good publicity. They dabbled in mudguard covers. (Fender) Yes. Ahem. I ordered the extra long ones for my Cadillac. I waited over 8 weeks to get them. I got them at discount when they arrived because of the delay (or so the rep told me). I have used them once. They leave a nice red stain on the paint. They are thin. They are big ones and my guess is they were made in some Chinese backyard. Absolute trash! |
