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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.90
Posted on Wednesday, 27 August, 2014 - 08:22:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Today I went to see a guy about a steering problem on a look a like Ford GT40.

The car doesn't steer right and in corners is scrubbing.

To check the steering arm angle I stretched a piece of string from the centre of steering axis through the centre of the track rod end to the centre of the rear axle both sides. The strings should cross at the rear axle centre and in this case the strings cross 6" behind the axle meaning the steering arm angle is for a car that is six inches longer.

The original owner sold the car because it didn't corner right and was uncompetitive. All.the New owner has to do is bend the arms in about 1/4 inch and job done. Except he will have to put the engine, gbox and body back on which will take 3 days. Still it made it easier to fit a electric pas pump. The engine and body were in the way of my string. This fault is common on kit cars that use parts from other cars. It is also the reason stretched limousines drive like a t*rd and scrub front tyres.

The previous owner spent thousands on this car and sold for £5000. What a bargain I seen these cars make £25000. This car is 220 mph and 0-60 in under 4.

Ppl

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 636
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Wednesday, 27 August, 2014 - 19:28:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Some years ago I was helping a couple by advising them on the condition and value of cars to purchase for resale. One day we went to see a classic Mini which seemed to be in excellent condition until we took it for a test drive 'around the block'. At the first right hand bend it seemed to be crabbing (driving sideways) so I had a closer look at the rear sub frame. It was then that I could see where the left rear quarter of the car had been damaged and (quite expertly) repaired. Unfortunately no attention had been paid to the sub frame mountings and the front left one was pushed forward/inward by over an inch.

We walked away rather quickly.
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.93
Posted on Thursday, 28 August, 2014 - 09:37:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Jan,
Once he got the car together and the weight is back on suspension, I going to reset the rest.

Someone because they didn't know have increased the camber to negative and the castor has nee greatly reduced. The car doesnt self centre and wanders. A double decker bus handles better. Also the rack wasn't centred and the hydraulic pipes were inside the car!!! The marshals would not allow the car to race.

My starting point will be 0 camber 4" castor on floor from centre contact patch of tyre to the extended notionall steering axis centre line ( the trail). 1/16 toe in and New tyres because the tyres fitted will have a bad memory.

This will be a massive improvement and a very good place to start tweaking from. The first will be castor. He will have to drive it and tell me if they steering weights up to what he likes.

The back is set up 0 camber and 1/8 toe out which should be 1/16 so he will get away with tear tyres for now. £300 EACH.

But even if I just do a first set up the car will then steer properly and it's worth £25K so £1500 and some beer tokens for me ain't out of bed.

The guy that owns the car is an accountant and he's picking the engineering side up fast.

The engine is a flat plane crankshaft V8 and it's a rev happy brute. It pulls hard from 2000rpm to 7000 it doesn't burble it wails. He's fitted stingers to the exhaust to quieter for the road.
When I drove it I short shifted the engine to keep it below 2500 revs. He revved it 5000 and the traction control light was on all the time. Without the TC the car would spin out big time.

(Message approved by david_gore)