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     Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 34 Registered: 10-2002 |
This is your roving automoboliste back online reporting from Silver Ghost 64EU on the RREC Centenary Alpine Trial 1913-2013 which commenced from St Moritz on June 21st. More to follow shortly, Ciao, Jeanne Eve, | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 35 Registered: 10-2002 |
2013. Switzerland – Italy – Slovenia –Austria June 23rd. If yesterday was my first touring day in a Silver Ghost I may have considered twice RREC Silver Ghost Centenary Alpine Trial 1913 - about continuing. In fact a couple of drivers complained that the day ‘should only be 80 miles long and supposed to be a holiday. If future days are longer than eighty, then we are going home.’ But most of the thirty six Ghost teams are experienced and enjoyed the challenge of well over 100 miles through Swiss and Italian mountain hairpin roads from St Moritz to the beautiful Riva del Garde in Italy. Above the tree lines, on roads barely wider than one car, we drove higher, marvelling at small villages clutching at steep hillsides and across valleys with spectacular views. We found right and left hand hairpins which are not easy with our long wheel base Silver Ghost with a poor turning lock. For each one, whilst the driver gives his shoulders a good workout, the navigator scans each corner for cyclists, bikes, cars or trucks. Not sure if it was Satnav guidance, but many trucks in Italy tackle minor roads. Tour organizer, David Dudley helped organize the 1993 and 2003 Alpine Tours and for this third event, with Len Meades, knew exactly which route and passes to present to Silver Ghost drivers as a salute to the original 1913 amateur drivers, especially to Mr James Radley who confirmed that Rolls-Royce was the best car in the world. On this tour there are fourteen Edwardian Silver Ghosts, and twenty two Ghosts which are post –war. To briefly recount motoring history, in 1912 James Radley, a British enterprising amateur driver, entered his Silver Ghost in the 1912 Great Austrian Alpine Tour. His vehicle had some of the London-Edinburgh modifications, including the cantilever rear srings, large carburettor and the old three speed gearbox. The latter proved to be the weakest link and Radley had to ask two of his passengers to jump out when attempting the Katschberg Pass because the gearbox was too highly geared causing the car to stall car on the steep ascent and so was disqualified. Sir Henry Royce and Claude Johnson were reputed to be dismayed by this news and deeply concerned about retaining the reputation of ’The best car in the world.’ So despite the factory choosing not to enter competitive events, an exception was made and the following year the R-R factory entered three cars for the Great Austrian Tour of 1632 miles and nineteen passes. James Radley drove a privately entered Continental. From the outset of the Tour, the Rolls-Royces dominated, sweeping up the Katschberg with Radley reporting that he never went below 17 mph. on the steepest stretch where he had failed the previous year. The R-R team came first every day and Rolls-Royce never again felt it necessary to enter competitive events. Yesterday the 1911 Open Tourer lost a wheel which fortunately did not roll over the mountain side. Another car experienced piston/cylinder problem so has been taken home to Europe to be replaced with a Phantom 11. Several cars had issues with over- heating or carburettors. There are several vehicles present which look perfect and have just been released on their first journey after complete restorations. This will be a tough ‘running-in’ time. Rest day today and in the car park many bonnets are open and tool kits spread out for the necessary maintenance. In 1913 James Radley was 30 years of age driving a new car but today the average age of both the RREC and the 20 -Ghost Club Alpine tour drivers is 65 with the cars averaging 90 years. Originally the RREC was planning to organize this 2013 Tour with 100 cars which would have been a logistical nightmare so when the 20-Ghost Club ( UK) initiated its own Tour, there was relief. There is also at last one other private Silver Ghost tour, so this month there over 100 Silver Ghosts from around the world recreating the spirit of the 1913 Alpenfahrt. Last night both the Alpine Tours from the RREC and the 20-Ghost Club met for a celebratory dinner hosted by the Rolls-Royce Company complete with after -dinner fireworks reflected in the water of Rive del Garde, Italy. Four new Ghosts were also parked nearby as were all our Silver Ghosts. In his speech the CEO reflected on how Sir Henry Royce would have been proud to have seen today’s collection. I do wonder if today’s new owners of the latest Rolls-Royce could even appreciate or understand the link between Silver Ghosts and the 1913 Alpenfahrt. Jeanne Eve. | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 36 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 3 –Riva del Garde –Canazei , Italy. June 23rd. 135 miles and 4 mountain passes So far we have followed short sections of the original 1913 Alpenfahrt. On Day I it was from Storo to Rive del Garde, Italy which included the Ampolo Pass; a mere 747 meters but with many hairpins for the end of the day. Today it was from Riva del Garde across the cobbled square of Tarbole and up the winding and narrow road with great views back over Lake Garda. The sun shone but the day remained mainly overcast which was kinder to both vehicle and drivers. Again we were climbing up and down mountains with magnificent snowy peaks especially on the jagged and dramatic Dolomite mountains. Today is Sunday and the long summer holidays have begun so there are many cyclists, bikers and holiday makers sharing the roads which I’m sure Mr Radley did not have to endure. One pass was closed but two cars ignored the Italian sign and drove over it successfully because the road making crew were not working on the weekend. The longest and most scenic pass was the majestic Rolle Pass at 1984 metres. This has been described as the most beautiful pass in the Dolomites. Petrol stations are problematic here in Italy as some only accept cash or special petrol cards so there go my euro notes. Personalities are being reflected in driving styles with at least three racing car drivers speeding past. Let’s see how their pistons survive. Most people enjoyed themselves today but one driver stuck to the motorways all day as he’s never driven over roads like the last few days even in a modern car. But his car is newly minted from the restoration shop- the engine won’t appreciate constant fast speed. 64EU loves chugging up and down the mountains and prefers the cooler weather. The highest water temperature so far has been 92 degrees and has used virtually no oil nor water. The generator is not working so we bought a second battery in France on our week’s pre-tour travel across Europe from UK to St Moritz. Instead of telephone chargers, John carries up a heavy battery to our room. Otherwise all is sweet. Which is of comfort as we have four more days of heavy mountain driving in Slovenia and Austria. We have been advised to begin tomorrow early as there are at least three passes around 2000m with many hairpins. And tonight it has begun to rain. Ciao, Jeanne Eve. Can someone tell me how to minimize my photos so I can post a few ? | ||
| Geoff Wootton Prolific User Username: dounraey Post Number: 232 Registered: 5-2012 |
Jeanne I use a jpg viewer called irfanview. It is free to download. When displaying a jpg file you can select the menu item Image-Resize/Resample. Make sure the "Preserve aspect ratio" button is flagged and set the width to 640 pixels. Geoff | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1307 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Jeanne, Welcome back as our intrepid roving reporter - looking forward to more reports on this historic recreation of arguably the most important event to publicise the merits of the fledgeling Rolls-Royce Company. A little concerned about the comments in the first report - have the present generation of Silver Ghost owners gone soft? Perhaps when the event is over, they will appreciate the challenges faced by the original entrants. As far as the picture size goes, the best size for posting here is 640 x 480 pixels in landscape mode and 480 x 640 pixels in portrait mode. Any of the free image manipulation software will be able to do this as Geoff suggests however I suggest the image quality should be set for the highest quality so the images can be viewed in fine detail. I wish you lots of fun and memorable moments as you recreate R-R history. Kind regards David | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 470 Registered: 6-2009 |
Jeanne, If you are using a Windows computer you can open any photo in MS-Paint, which is under Accessories in the Programs menu, and use the resize feature (with the PIXELS radio button chosen). Be sure you then do a "Save As" so that you don't lose the original high resolution image you're tweaking. David, Unless something has changed it is impossible to post a 480x640 (portrait orientation) digital picture on these forums. Every time I've tried to do it the photo is rejected if the vertical dimension is anything above 480 pixels. Brian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1309 Registered: 4-2003 |
Brian, I have no problems - see my reply to your Suggestion Box post. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 473 Registered: 6-2009 |
David, I presume you've seen the Forum Admin's follow-up by now. He had already take action to allow 640x640 as a max so that either portrait or landscape orientation could be posted prior to your attempt to post, but after mine. Believe me, I had been "burned" by trying to post 480x640 images many times in the past, so much so that I started posting "sideways" portrait shots, which I am loath to do as I despise having to pick up a laptop and turn it or turn my head sideways to view an image. Brian | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 37 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 4 Canazei – Velden June 24th 163 miles As I lay awake last night listening to thunderstorms and rainfall and envisaged the Pordoi Pass, the idea of snow never crossed my mind. My jaw is now unclenched but I could do with a neck massage from today’s cold but exhilarating drive from Italy to Austria over the Pordoi Pass ( 2239m) the Falzarego Pass ( 2117 m ) and the Passe Tre Coci (1809 m) on the rugged Dolomite Mountains. John and I decided to skip breakfast and be on the road by 6.30 am. It was +2 degrees but within minutes after departing the hotel and up into the hairpins of the Pordoi Pass ( which was ‘ouvert’) there was sleet replaced soon after by large snowflakes. The world of cold Christmas trees with white icing was beautiful but not so our snow/ice covered windscreen. No Rainex on the windscreen. Oops. John used a tiny hand turned windscreen wiper for a small viewing hole and I used a plastic covered pocket tissue pack to clear a small hole of vision for myself. But usually I stuck my head out the side to try and glimpse ahead. The snow increased and soon the road was a line of tyre tracks from the occasional van or garbage truck which passed us on their morning descent. Our Drizabone coats were perfect protection against the snow and wind. With gentle chugging, we saw the lights of two snow ploughs above and drove into the sleepy Pordoi Pass summit. ‘Beautiful views’ stated our route book but for us it was a whiteout. We were chuffed as this was our first for a Silver Ghost in snow and also this was the highest pass on the 1913 Alpenfahrt. Then it was a slow descent in first gear with no brakes as it could have been ice on the road. It was only at the end of the day that we heard that the Pass was closed for our Tour. The following two passes were not as dramatic but the Dolomites were impressive even with rain. Apparently there has been a cold snap but warmer weather is predicted. Local drivers are not appreciative of the Oldtimer Autos and several participants described having to stop suddenly with local drivers deciding turn in front of them. We had a tight altercation with a large modern coach as we descended the Tre Coci Pass. Also no one uses indicators at roundabouts which makes one uncertain whether to change gear or not. Overall everyone is travelling well even if there has been autobarn routes and many unintentional detours through the Austrian countryside. A warm welcome by the Mayor and the Tourism office at the luxurious family run hotel on the lake at Werden am Woerthersee, Austria washed away all cares. Maybe the sun will shine tomorrow as we have two nights here on the shores of a tranquil lake. Auf Wiedersehen, Jeanne Eve | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 38 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 45 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 482 Registered: 6-2009 |
Jeanne, Thanks for the photos. They remind me of the RROC-US Phantom I Society spring tour that was held in Charlottesville, VA, but with the mountains and views being "on steroids." Having been in Austria in the early 2000s with a trip by train to Italy this brings back memories of that time, too. I guess the older you get the more likely it is for things to cause certain disparate experiences to be collected in the mind. This must be an incredibly fun trip and one of those "once in a lifetime" experiences. Brian | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 46 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks Brian.For us Aussies snow is a novelty as are mountains! Glad these renew your holiday world memories.So many places of beauty. We were fortunate to be on the Alpine Tour in 2003 but this is a different route with some overlap.The Centenary is special and we are with a great bunch of people from USA, UK, NZ,Canada, Switzerland, Ireland. More later, Jeanne | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 47 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 5 Slovenia and the Loibl Pass June 25th. The lure of the Loibl and last night all those with 3 –speed gearboxes were not encouraged to attempt this Pass ( 1367 m) today for the gradient is up to 29% on the ascent of 13 hairpins over 1.3 miles. This was the downfall on the 1912 Alpenfahrt. Instead we invited the driver of a 1911 Silver Ghost as a passenger for his first Loibl. The descent was no easier with 2.4 miles of hairpins and drainage gullies and the initial gradient being 23 % past the summit on the Slovenian and Austrian border marked by two pillars. Reminded me of a country farm track with gravel and puddles through spruce forests and we even had a tractor en route coming up to meet us. He kindly backed off. For some reason another Ghost was either ‘released’ too soon after us or was driving very fast because he was right on our tail –his problem when our first gear jumped out of its gate from excess vibration halfway up the Pass. Fortunately on a relatively straight segment and not on a hairpin. Otherwise the ascent for 64EU was uneventful. A round 176 mile route was offered today but after yesterday’s marathon, we decided to make a short cut and carry out some maintenance instead; oiling the king pins and sphere and polishing away the pinpoint black residue from acid rain on the grille chrome. Also exchanging our batteries over and re-charging the other. We drove around Slovenia ten years ago on the 2003 Alpine tour so weren’t too unhappy about missing some countryside and villages. And another Pass. Towards lunch we set out for Bled, joined the route notes and onto the Loibl before returning home to Velden. A sweet sharp 80 mile run with a heavy rainshower at the end. The highlight for any motoring event is always the camaraderie and friendships and this one is no different. Tonight we had a barbecue with a live band and as one American remarked, “I’ve never seen Ghost people behave like this before” as dancers sashayed, waltzed or rock and rolled. Meanwhile the Irish contingent were in the bar gathering a crowd of their own as they played and sang to an accordion. Looks like fun times ahead. Nasvidenje. Goodbye, until next time. Jeanne | ||
| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 48 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 49 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Experienced User Username: jeve Post Number: 50 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jonas TRACHSEL Experienced User Username: jonas_trachsel Post Number: 36 Registered: 2-2005 |
Here in Europe we have had a veeeery looong winter this year, no spring at all, then suddenly a week of summer weather with temps over 30°C and now already autumn. That's obviously called "Global Warming"..... Jonas | ||
| Brian Crump Prolific User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 134 Registered: 2-2007 |
Wonderful photographs Jeanne - I hope you are all enjoying the adventure and we are eagerly anticipating more stories and photos on your return. Regards, Brian Crump | ||
| Editor London and Derby Moderator Username: nsw_editor Post Number: 85 Registered: 4-2004 |
Hi Jeanne, I have only just found you. Thanks for the great description of Ghosting. Commentary on line is sparse and seems to feature the modern cars more than the Ghosts. I can identify with the battery situation! Have fun. Margaret | ||
| Barrie Gillings Unregistered guest Posted From: 121.218.162.8 |
Hi Jeanne, John. Wonderful to hear and see you both re-creating the wonderful experiences of the 2003 Alpine. Unlike you then and now, Walter, Lyel and I had problems on the Loibl. Gute Reise! Barrie Gillings. I hope you receive this, my first attempt at posting. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 51 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks everyone. Great to hear from you and Barrie you may like to comment further after my next missive. Day 6 Velden to Graz. Austria June 26th. 121 miles The sun shone and it was hard to leave pretty Velden with its clearwater lake and mountains backdrop, home to fish and ducks as well as water skiers. A lazy start to the morning was in order for a 121 mile drive to Graz. The route notes seemed straightforward but the Magdelensberg Pass (1345m) was surprisingly steep and long. The air temperature dropped many degrees on the ascent and some drivers were caught out with inadequate warm clothing. However on the way up, it seemed as though all of Austria was on display. Like a countryside toy carpet with farmlets dropped between little fields, tractors and tracts of pine forests. Windowboxes bursting with red geraniums or pink petunias, neat garden beds with yellow lilies or climbing roses. Everything is neat, tidy and clean in Austria. Entering a busy city is never fun and it was difficult parking in the underground public carpark just past our hotel in Graz. The whole parking procedure did not reflect the usual Austrian efficiency. Since the advent of Google maps, I believe route notes and instructions have deteriorated. Google can never replace some human common sense advice re roads. Having said that, there have been some helpful observational landmarks when locating hotels in cities. Consequently most of us use satnav devices as backups . Some navigators cannot follow a route so they are travelling in mini convoys. We prefer to travel alone so any navigation errors are mine alone and I cannot be distracted or lose confidence in my decisions. On this trip there is no luggage van and no mechanical back up except I believe P & A Woods will join us after the completion of the 20 - Ghost Tour. It is easy to spot the newbies with their eight bags of luggage or ten sets of hangar bags when we check into hotels. But it is the Silver Ghosts not the people which are the show ponies and we have some beauties. We are over half-way and apart from two initial drop-outs, all Ghosts are proceeding in fine form. Day 7 Graz to Baden June 27th 101 miles With sunshine we negotiated the underground carpark and out of busy but small city of UNESCO protected Graz and with relief was soon out into the countryside with occasional whiffs of fertilizer and many fields of fruit trees under nets. A few drivers experienced their first ‘wheel wobble’ when their tyres found tramlines in Graz. Not recognizing the first signs of a little earthquake on wheels, they wondered what on earth was happening with their car and did not know how to self - correct. Local firemen were supposed to meet us in one town and guide us to a local reception and refreshments but we missed each other and too late I glimpsed shiny Ghosts parked in a laneway. But later a lovely surprise when friends of the Austrian organizer placed RREC placards on roadside to invite us into their Gasthaus restaurant for morning tea and local music –not gratis but most welcome. Apricot strudel was a favourite. Then it was a short run to Baden where Beethoven wrote his 9th symphony and Mozart once lived. There is tranquillity here in the park with its Rosarium and also in the Platz and streets of Baden. Many older residents were walking their dogs, sitting in the Platz, strolling along the quiet lanes or chatting with friends in the Café Konditerei, enjoying the summer sunshine. Here we have a rest day and already this afternoon, with drivers in blue overalls bending over open bonnets and tool kits spread on the ground, tap tap tapping reverberates around the squeezy car park as various drivers remove spare wheels for easier access to engine bays. Maybe to adjust the timing, or refloat carburettor bowls. John again oiled the front suspension, king pins, sphere and cardan shaft. We also screwed in a loose piece of bodywork wood edging and also adjusted the timing as we have been running a bit rich. However our fuel consumption is around 10 miles per gallon which is similar to others. In Italy fuel cost almost 2 euros a litre, but in Slovenia and Austria it is around 1.4 euros per litre for octane super 98. The senior city councillor of Baden welcomed us and the city provided pre-dinner drinks in the hotel lobby, casual and friendly. The meaning of ‘Auf Wiedersehen’ was sincerely explained. I have already fallen in love with Velden and now Baden. Probably Vienna will join that list tomorrow. Tonight I spent the evening using my rusty French conversing with Swiss participants as that was our only communal language. Conversation swung from why the Australian dollar was falling to the Birdwood Run in South Australia to his wonderful car collection where he has kept every car he’s owned . How often have I heard, ‘Oh how I wished I hadn’t sold my ….’. Guten nacht. Jeanne. Day 8 free day. Most of us took the opportunity to give the cars a rest and travelled either by tram or train into Vienna about an hour away and be tourists. I wondered what it was which so inspired Sigmund Freud in his theories. Also Strauss, Beethoven and Mozart in this city of culture with parks and monuments. Organizer Len Meades was telling me that the most frequent question he’s been asked so far is how to stop the gear shift stick jumping out of gear whilst ascending long climbs. His advice is to gently ease back on the throttle, don’t touch the clutch and keep one’s hand on the gear stick and soon the gear will click back in place. John’s technique is to use his knee when driving to hold the gear stick in place. Except on the Loibl. Better go and pack up and check the route instructions and map for tomorrow’s long drive. Jeanne | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 52 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 53 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 9 Baden to Anif ( Salzburg) 209 miles. June 29th. I must mention our three sets of organizers who are making this such a successful Tour. The pace is correct with ample opportunities for everyone to enjoy themselves—i.e. vary the routes if wish, have coffee stops or lunch etc. There are enough free days for car maintenance, laundry or local sightseeing. There have been both challenging and easy roads with spectacular scenery. Our trusty Team leader is David Dudley, who with his wife Fran have spent years on preparation. David is the Registrar for the RREC Silver Ghost Register and also its Editor. We also have Len Meades and his wife Lesley plus our Austrian officials Helmut and Gerti Goigner. These guys also shepherd us or scout ahead when necessary. I know there is massive behind - the - scenes activity which is unobservable. It’s up to us to know the history behind the Alpenfahrts. On that note, a few history buffs visited the Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna where the original 1913 Alpenfahrt commenced on June 20th to finish in Vienna on July 4th. The same dates of our Tour a centenary later. In Baden, the R-R Austrian section escorted about ten of our cars into Vienna on the morning of our free day. It was unfortunate that not more cars ventured forth, in appreciation of the Austrian assistance, but city driving is not easy and it was not for a special public display. The same evening we hit the jackpot because the last weekend of June is ’Baden im Weiss’. Everyone wears their summer white clothes and heads into town for live air music concerts and parties. Friday is ‘Lange Einkaufsnacht’ for late night shopping until 10pm where stores displayed round bar tables swathed in white for wine and biscuits outside their doors for customers and friends. Those of us who walked to restaurants in Baden were greeted with white artificial leis and made our way past families, young couples, grandparents, all dressed in white. Some men looked very dapper in white suits, ties, shoes and hats. White balloons, white tablecloths and white decorations. Already a party feel was in the air in preparation for the following night’s Open Air Party Zone in the streets. But by then we would be in Salzburg. Salzburg is over 200 miles from Vienna and most participants visited 2003 Alpine Tour organizers, the Willenpart’s home and car collection en route for a BBQ lunch and to watch a country and western line dancing troupe. A surprise. Others sped on towards the mountains near Salzburg with ominous rainclouds overhead. We stopped for a welcome coffee break at pretty Spitz Villa on the shores of peaceful Traunsee. Here King Edward V11 and Emperor Franz Joseph once enjoyed its hospitality and today anyone passing by is welcome. This afternoon was a dramatic one for the 1911 Open Tourer, the one which lost its wheel earlier on. In Baden, the owners noticed a crack in the replaced wheel (was the spare wheel) so they managed to get it welded in Baden. But several miles out of Anif, our hotel destination in Salzburg, they suddenly lost drive. Fortunately other participants were soon with them and eventually a tow truck was found. It has transpired that the differential is kaput. All of the eighteen bolts holding the crown wheel onto the differential had sheared. When it was opened up, the oil was a dirty gold colour from all the macerated metal and only a few bolts and fragments were found loose inside. The status of the spider gears is not yet known. On our Tour are three restorers plus those with many years of experience of Silver Ghosts. It may be repairable and it’s thought that modern bolts can be found, although they will not be of sufficient hardness for the long term. However the rear axles now need to be removed and inspected. This car has been valiant and has travelled with us from England. Now we have a rest day ahead of us to explore Salzburg and carry out car maintenance. Until next time Jeanne | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 54 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 61 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| barrie gillings Unregistered guest Posted From: 121.218.162.8 |
Jeanne, your account is bringing back fond memories of the 2003 Trial. Many thanks. David Dudley is repeating his splendid 2003 contributions.A failed Ghost differential is is a real rarity. Tell the wheel-wobblers to tighten all steering connections, and when on the road, allow the steering wheel to fidget, don't hold it tightly. Barrie G (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 62 Registered: 10-2002 |
Timely advice Barrie. The 1911 Roi de Belges had a bad wheel wobble -Right front side, this afternoon and here is a picture or two. Shock absorber has broken too. I'm not sure of the diagnosis yet or whether the solution is going to be a wheel hub replacement.  | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 63 Registered: 10-2002 |
Broken shock absorber  | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 64 Registered: 10-2002 |
The above wheel has been fixed by three new holes being drilled with three new re-locating pins, down in the carpark with the help of a couple of fellow participants. Tomorrow we have a testing day with both the Bremmer Pass (1375m) and the Timmelsjoch (2509 m). | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 65 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 10 free day in Anif ( Salzburg)June 30th Our hotel is in a small village and this morning we had choice of two arranged visits with the afternoon and evening free to explore Salzburg. Apparently Red Bull Hangar -7 was somewhat disappointing as the best exhibits were elsewhere for a special display. The visit to the Gösslgwand-Haus, was short but interesting to hear the history of this chateau which now houses the manufacturing of traditional Austrian clothing. Only farmfolk used to wear the dirndl garments until the Germans invaded Austria in WW11 when it was decreed that everyone had to wear it. It’s popularity only began about twenty years ago when the younger generation with weaker associations from the war, began to show interest. It is never worn around Vienna but is more popular in the countryside especially for weddings and formal occasions. Hotel staff often wear these traditional clothes as uniform. Salzburg means ‘Salt Castle’ and lies on each side of the Salzach River. Barges used to transport salt in the 8th century paying a toll in Saltzburg. Dominating the skyline is the city’s fortress; the Festung Hohensalzburg first built in 1077 however Roman remains have been discovered there. Although many shops were closed on Sunday, we explored its UNESCO protected Old Town, the fortress, cathedral or listened to a Mozart & Beethoven concert. This was Mozart’s birthplace and, perhaps unfortunately, the location for the musical and film, The Sound of Music. Day 11 July 1st Anif to Toblach/Dobbiaco 170 miles Today was perfect touring. The sun shone and snow spotted peaks beckoned far ahead above Austrian pine forests. The scenic route followed river gorges, through cold tunnels, past fresh mown grass and small farms then steadily climbed up to both the Tauern Pass (1739m) and the famous Katchberg Pass (1641m). The latter is deceptively steep with no nasty hairpins but was where Radley had to offload his passengers in 1912. In his day the gradient was 25% but only 15% today. I find the descents much more nerve wracking and have my passenger foot down, hard to the floor,as John drives in 1st gear and the hand brake swooshes on and off. Tonight we have parked our cars down the road in front of the Grand Hotel which today is a youth hostel. This is where the 1913 trial stayed overnight. Formalities are at a minimum but this afternoon the Mayor and chief Tourist officer welcomed us to Toblach and offered everyone a shot of Italian clear alcohol. It was all pretty casual with us milling around in front of the cars with no other speeches required. That has been the style of this tour. | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 66 Registered: 10-2002 |
The Grand Hotel, Toblach, Italy which was used in 1913.  | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 67 Registered: 10-2002 |
Day 12 Doblach to Merano 179 miles Today did not start well. It was obvious that as soon as were on the road this morning we had fuel starvation causing us to stop by the roadside near some roadworkers. Bonnet up and John began investigating the carburettor. Other participants kindly stopped and assisted but it was the New Zealand team who fixed the problem. The two R-R mechanics - restorers, one of whom now resides in USA, eventually hit the side of the auto vac and all was well. This was an hour after blowing and sucking various fuel lines, checking fuel filters etcetera. Probably the valve inside the auto vac stuck, so preventing fuel flow. A short knock was the magic touch. Next time, I’ll remember that. This was the day that none of us wanted to leave late as we had not only a long day but one of continuous mountain roads including the Timmeljoch Pass from Austria to Italy. The roadworker kindly held up his lollipop sign for us to enter the busy road with many trucks headed for the Autobahn. With the engine now chugging, rather than purring, because we still have a low speed jet issue, we travelled a few miles when an Italian police officer waved us into the pavement. He wanted to see John’s driving license, international one and recorded the details along with the number plate registration. I expect it was just to have a sticky beak. The same happened to us coming over to join the Tour in Germany, but no licenses were proffered. At last we were on our way to chug gently along the river gorges and ascend into the mountains towards Austria. The Brenner Pass (1375m) was easy and o-one stopped us at the border crossing. The autobahn soared high above us like an aerial snake on its massive concrete pillars and is an engineering feat. Roadworks peppered the route as did tunnels through the rugged Dolomites. Up and down, with bends and some hairpins, through narrow villages, past women stooking the hay, tractors cutting the grass on steep hillsides and the temperature guage swinging from 60 to low 90’s all morning. After our late start it was relief to see some parked Silver Ghosts stopped for lunch giving drivers and cars a welcome cool break. Even the Silver Ghost with the broken differential in Salzburg has been fixed and 12 new bolts inserted into the crown wheel, arrived to join us again. Now fortified, it was time for the afternoon climb into the snowline and cross from Austria into Italy over the Timmelsjoch Pass ( 2509m). The ascent was reasonably gentle with wide hairpins but the descent was the opposite and one wondered how a road could ever be built on such a vertical mountain side. John could hardly bear to look down from his window to the villages and road far below. He doesn’t like heights at the best of time. One wouldn’t want to miss a hairpin turn. The views were thrilling and the drive certainly a challenge. After over ten hours on the road including all stops, we arrived in Merano with our cars parked in the Piazza near the hotel. Too late for the Mayor’s speech but there were plenty of people watching us park, unpack and clip on the tonneau cover. John has now oiled the kingpins and put in litres of water into the radiator. Tomorrow is the famed Stelvio Pass with 48 hairpins on its 28km climb to the summit, then the tour ends in pretty St Moritz. | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 68 Registered: 10-2002 |
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| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 69 Registered: 10-2002 |
Final day and arrival in St Moritz July 4th I’m writing this on our last free day, musing on our wonderful Alpenfahrt adventure. Every Silver Ghost which set out from St Moritz arrived back yesterday afternoon. What an achievement for these majestic and characteristic vintage cars. Yesterday some chose to go over the Stelvio Pass from Italy to Switzerland, others chose a more gentle scenic route. A decade ago, on the Alpine Tour, John and I rose early and drove to the Stelvio summit for breakfast. Yesterday we repeated the experience. The mist was swirling below us, the sun trying to shine and John made a snowball for the Spirit of Ecstasy. Then onward for the descent into Switzerland on the Umbrail Pass. Hairpins all the way, some tight with part of the section being on gravel surface. We had no rain but others who came down later, said it was a little slippery. We had time to spare because the arrival time into our hotel in St Moritz, through the special Alpine Tour arch with photographs of each car being welcomed by the local Mayor, was not until 4pm. So we found a quiet spot in a national park and John carried out basic maintenance; oiling and greasing, checking spark plugs until rain defeated us. Soon it was time for celebratory champagne and smiles all round. This has been a tight knit group with a wealth of motoring and mechanical knowledge. Everyone has helped each other when necessary with special mentions going to Steve Littin ( USA) , Bruce McIlroy ( NZ) and James Black (N. Ireland). Organizer Len Meades commented that he’s never observed such generosity and sharing of time and knowledge as that with Silver Ghosters. We’ve all had a good time with spectacular scenery and roads. It has been a drivers tour and certainly a salute to the original Alpenfahrters. If you ever get the chance to join a tour run by David Dudley, take it. His magnificent management and sense of humour has brought joy to us all. And I hope the public have enjoyed seeing our cars, even if we were a bit slow on the Passes. | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 70 Registered: 10-2002 |
Mist on the Stelvio obscuring hairpin turn.    | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 71 Registered: 10-2002 |
For those unfamiliar with Silver Ghost engines and general maintenance, here are some photos    | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 72 Registered: 10-2002 |
We are still having carburettor issues, so here are some photos. Steve Littin to the rescue.   One pitted low speed jet needle  One high speed jet needle with crack  male bonding+++ jpeg +++ 14383 +++ male bonding +++ Moderator's Comment: Hi Jeanne, I hope you have not minded my re-arranging your posts to avoid the need to scroll across the page to view them  . Your last heading and photo appear to have been corrupted and I suggest you repost them as the male bonding heading has me intrigued. Thank you for your reporting; as usual, it brings the event to life for those of us unable to participate. Regards David. | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 73 Registered: 10-2002 |
Here is the RREC Centenary Alpine Trial Route  | ||
| Jeanne Eve Frequent User Username: jeve Post Number: 74 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks David for your assistance. Only just re-read my travelogue and realized missing photos. Here are some typical car park scenes which are all part of the camaraderie in any R-R tour. I hope the participants won't mind my inclusion. I expect everyone is now home and recalling a wonderful time. When I was a new member, I remember remarking to an older wiser woman that John was always in the carpark. 'Don't worry dear. At least you always know where he is'.  Checking severe wheel wobble .  Carburettor assembly 101  |
