Oils and Fluids Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

Australian RR Forums » Miscellaneous » Oils and Fluids « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 2020
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Wednesday, 28 October, 2009 - 12:31:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I just paid a visit to the Castrol Depot - ours is at 89 High Street, East Queanbeyan, just outside Canberra.

All the fluids we need are off-the-shelf.

RR363: $14.10 / litre (100 in stock for the doubters)

LHM (SZ hydraulics) $16.80 for 500ml in the special filler bottle. The next size up is 20 Litres approximately $180, but not a stock item.

At Ray Gulson Porsche/Citroen/Ferrari etc in Newcastle Street Fyshwick (Canberra) a 5 litre container is priced at $80. That's pretty good, but I still consider that price a little high. Penrite sell LHM in 5 litre containers at a very reasonable price too.

Castrol Edge full synthetic, 0W40 (preferred) or 5W30 (older cars) $49 for 5 litres.

Transmax Z fully synthetic transmission fluid, preferred for all R-R/B Hydramatic, THM400/3L80 and 4L80E: $56.50 for 4 litres.

It is clearly worthwhile going to the depot at thos cut prices. Castrol Edge is usually about $90 for 5 litres at a discount motor factors. It;s barely worth flushing SY hydraulics with DOT4 before filling with RR363 at that price. I forgot to ask about coolants, but all the coolants at our motor factor are now marked IAT, HOAT or OAT. At last we can buy IAT inhibited ethylene glycol with confidence that it will not ruin out motors. Most propylene glycols seem to be HOAT or OAT, so I give the propylenes a wide berth.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Colin Silver
Prolific User
Username: colsilver

Post Number: 101
Registered: 8-2008
Posted on Wednesday, 28 October, 2009 - 16:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Richard, info appreciated.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Unregistered guest
Posted From:
Posted on Saturday, 21 June, 2014 - 17:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Is there a substitute for rr363?



This question is more than adequately answered in this forum and I suggest Brian should use the SEARCH button in the top right hand corner of each page to do a search using RR363 as the key word.

It is important that the relevant threads be read in detail due to the diversity of opinions that our members have on this subject.

(Message approved by david_gore)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brian Vogel
Grand Master
Username: guyslp

Post Number: 870
Registered: 6-2009
Posted on Sunday, 22 June, 2014 - 10:50:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I concur with our moderator. I'll only add that a search on YAK363 (whole word only) can be helpful in finding the lengthy discussions regarding a proposed substitute (and the arguments for and against). It's also worth looking at the thread entitled Homebrew Hydraulics.

A search on RR363 turns up so much information that it can take forever to sift through.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From:
Posted on Sunday, 22 June, 2014 - 12:05:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

This is straight forward

Refer to the manual

If you were to use the original specs absolutely no damage will occur due to wrong oils.

Because RR and the oil guys checked it all out for you

However most of the specs are no longer sold

The replacements for these specs are much higher so these are ideal

Eg 15/50 Mobil 1

Synthetic autobox oil

RR363 their is not really a replacement for this

Dot 4 can be used for.short term testing and flushing because it does have oiliness
Meths doesn't and readily burns

For steering stuff and wheel bearings use synthetic chassis grease

None of specs apart from RR363
Are different from from many other brit cars

The only awkward one is air con due to environmental regs. The new stuff is not as good

My method is if it moves turns slides then it needs lubing

Not brush gear in motors and some types of plastic which go furry if you oil them

For general things like door hinges I use Cheap 20/50

My car is very oily lovely stuff

(Message approved by david_gore)

Add Your Message Here
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Please quote Chassis Numbers for all vehicles mentioned.