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Martin Cutler
Frequent User Username: martin_cutler
Post Number: 92 Registered: 7-2007
| Posted on Wednesday, 19 November, 2008 - 20:42: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
Hi guys, Does anyone know the ohm rating of the ballast resistor for a T1? It has a Lucas part number on it, but no rating. I am guessing at about 1.5 ohms? Cheers Marty |
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David Gore
Moderator Username: david_gore
Post Number: 852 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, 20 November, 2008 - 09:05: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
Martin, I also think 1.5 ohms would be about right - a standard coil for a 12V electrical system was usually designed to operate at 9 volts to compensate for the voltage drop when starting and the ballast resistor reduced the voltage at the coil to this figure when the engine was running. I would try and find/fabricate a wire-wound resistor with a rating of at least 50 watts and preferably higher. It also helps if you can relocate the ballst resistor from the bulkhead to the front of the vehicle to keep it cool - they are prone to overheating in the original bulkhead location. |
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Colin Silver
New User Username: colsilver
Post Number: 6 Registered: 8-2008
| Posted on Thursday, 20 November, 2008 - 15:35: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
This link seems to confirm 1.5 ohms. http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17/3480.html# A good read too by Patrick Lockyer, Et al. |
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 1525 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Friday, 21 November, 2008 - 01:54: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
Go for a Lucas 3BR or equivalent from Bosch, Delco or the like as it is the correct one. As the name implies, it is BR for ballast resistor. It is a 30W unit with a suitable mounting bracket included. It is 1.3 Ohm, designed to drop the coil voltage to 9V statically. Anythiomg from 1.2 Ohm to 1.5 Ohm will do. Replacements of all brands are compatible and available at any autoelectrician if you don't want a genuine part for some odd reason. Be prepared to pay as much as $10. Other brands are Echlin ICR11, ICR23, ICR34, Accel Part 150250 and so on. They are usually in ceramic housings. If you must use an industrial equivalent, be sure only to use a hollow-cored epoxy-dipped 1.47 Ohm 50W one to save a few bucks.
![](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/17004/7974.jpg) |
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Martin Cutler
Frequent User Username: martin_cutler
Post Number: 93 Registered: 7-2007
| Posted on Sunday, 23 November, 2008 - 11:12: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
Thanks guys. The car is running smoothly again. |
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Colin Silver
New User Username: colsilver
Post Number: 7 Registered: 8-2008
| Posted on Sunday, 23 November, 2008 - 20:00: | ![Edit Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/tree_s.gif) ![Delete Post](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/delmsg.gif) ![View Post/Check IP](http://au.rrforums.net/forum/icons/checkip.gif) |
Just what we like to hear. Well done. |