| Author | Message | ||
     Nigel A Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 252.118.84.58.dynamic.qld.chariot.net.au |
Hi all This post is perhaps related to my previous post about the engine cooling system. The other day our temperature here in the Whitsundays plummeted to 18 and for the first time ever I changed from air-con to heater. (I had previously simply turned the heater etc on while draining the coolant.) To my surprize no heated air came through at all. I checked the manual and can go ahead and disassemble then reassemble but before I do I thought I might ask for your advice. There may be a simple and obvious solution. I also suspect that this could well have something to do with my previous trouble refilling the engine with coolant. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 730 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Nigel, My guess would be a possible blocked heater core; easily checked by clamping then disconnecting the existing hoses to avoid coolant loss and then trying to flush water through the core with some temporary hose connections. If this shows the core to be OK, the next step would be to check the air flap actuators - I presume you have repalced all the diodes since you acquired your car; if not replace the diodes as the first step then check the heater operation. Regards David | ||
| John Kilkenny Experienced User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 42 Registered: 6-2005 |
Nigel, Have you checked that the heater tap actuator and tap operate when the heater is turned on or off ? I'm not sure I would say that 18 degrees is plummetting, it was 6 degrees in Melbourne this morning! | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: client-81-108-189-134.brig.adsl.tesco.net |
Put the heater on max hot have a helper observe the servo and valve which is under the hydraulic reservior. If the valve does open and still no heat. Check that the valve is not blocked -- these valves are not that good and a long time no use can damage the valve diaphragm. Most likely leak. If valve ok then disconnect bothends of heater circuit connect to water main and leave for 30 minutes -- have the outlet in a bowl to form a wier so that the muck can been seen and you will be surprised. Airlocks after a Shadow engine has been running with no signs of overheating is very unlikely. Once the heating is working make a point of using it once a month regardless of temp. Also use everything else like electric seats (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Nigel A Ralph Unregistered guest Posted From: 157.200.191.203.dynamic.qld.chariot.net.au |
Thank you all for your advice. The problem is now solved. It was simply a completely non-functioning heater tap/valve. The linkages were simply not opening and closing it. I opened it manually and had a lovely warm drive so the rest of it is fine. I believe this also explains my previous difficulty in refilling the coolant system after I had drained it. David, I haven't replaced any of the diodes. It was not until today that I actually found out what a diode was - a device which allows current to pass through in a single direction. Shoud I replace all the diodes? What amperage are they? John, 6 degrees is fine for Melbournians who live very near the Southern Ocean ie. neighbours of the Antartic. But for those of us who live in the tropics, 18 degrees as a maximum was very uncomfortable. Our minimum was 11!! but we are prepared for a cold start to the day. We just don't expect it to continue past about 8.30 or 9 am. To have it all day was really miserable in shorts and polo shirt. Thanks Bob. Your advice was very simple to follow. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 731 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Nigel, The diodes should be replaced every 10 years or so as they can deteriorate over time. Standard 1N4004 1A diodes are fine - just go to Dick Smith/Jaycar or your closest local electronics repair shop - make sure they show you the positive end of the diode as you must ensure they are installed with the correct polarity on the fuse board. Jaycar: Part No ZR1004 $0.40 for pack of 4 diodes. Dick Smith: Part No Z3008 $3.98 for pack 100 diodes Best wishes David | ||
| John Kilkenny Experienced User Username: john_kilkenny Post Number: 43 Registered: 6-2005 |
It has been my experience that if an electrical component has lasted for ten years under normal usage, there is an excellent chance that it will last for another ten without a problem. The purpose of the diodes used with the flap actuators is to prevent spurious operation so if everything is working OK I would leave them alone. |
