| Author | Message | ||
     Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1214 Registered: 4-2003 |
My two bob’s worth on running cool: don’t go there. The motors are designed to run at 95C, with the coolant type and pressure there to give a wide margin against boiling. Everyone is gentle with a cold motor, and the quicker it reaches 95C the better. If it never reaches running temperatures, the motor can surely have no chance of lasting very long ? Let it not die from hypothermia. I have replaced thermostats on Crewe V8s many times. With one exception it was routine or due to overcooling by thermostats sticky and too often slightly opened a little too much as they usually only ever need to open so little, especially on the highway. Running without the correct thermostat, or worse still with none at all, reduces cooling capacity by about 40% as the bypass is never closed off. That loss may only be relevant in extremes such as in heavy traffic but never on the highway, but it is worth noting. Something I am looking into is the fusible links (lead pellet) as fitted to earlier cars, as my favoured supplier will no longer sell them. He claims that too many people now use the wrong coolant, and that the inhibitors in those coolants attack the lead. I still have a few spares with lead pellets, so I have a little time to find out what is going on. | ||
| Peter Colwell Experienced User Username: peter_colwell Post Number: 45 Registered: 3-2005 |
For long and happy life, an engine should reach operating temp quickly, - but not too quickly, as distortion can cause problems, - and then be kept stable at that temp for the duration. Oil temp is very important also. My car of German origin has a warning not to use full power until the oil temp reaches 85º. Until then the oil temp gauge flashes a warning that only goes out at 85º. And it is surprising how long that takes, usually about 10Kms, even on warm days. (Message edited by Peter Colwell on 07 April 2007) | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: client-81-108-181-3.brig.adsl.tesco.net |
Most engines take longer to FULLY warm up than the heater output would have you believe. 6 miles is quite fast I suspect that my Shadow needs a little more say 10 miles. recently the car has been used 5 days a week to do a return journey of 14 miles. (7 each way ). Last week end I went 50 odd miles in one go and I noticed after about 20 miles how smooth the car was. Also tyres get warm and and smoother etc. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Hameed Noor Mohamed Experienced User Username: hameednoor Post Number: 16 Registered: 12-2006 |
What is cool running in a silver spirit. I am looking at a 1996 spirit and the needle does not go above the 4 o clock. I read somewhere that 3 o clock is he optimum | ||
| bob uk Unregistered guest Posted From: client-81-108-179-183.brig.adsl.tesco.net |
Car guages are not accurate and readings must be checked before anything esle. The engine should run at 85 to 90 degrees with 95 being exceptable and 100 for short peroids only such as hill climbing. ( change down and get engine to run faster is best but the Car should do that automatically ). Using an indepentdant temp guage such as a themometer or best way infrared themometer gun point and take a reading without interfering with the engine ( non-invasive measurement) I have seen more than one engine stripped down due to a malfunctioning gauge. Best one was XJ6 with low oil pressure the garage rebuilt the engine only to find the engine had low oilo pressure when thye fitted a new sender the pressure went about right on the gauge. When I checked the pressure with a calibrated gauge the pressure was bang on specs even the new sender was 10% out ( the same sender that RR use by the way) Point infra red at rad top tank ( not the expansion/ filler /steam valve tank ) The heads will give a higher reading about 135 and the exhausts 300 degrees and turbos up to 800 ( red hot ) (Message approved by david_gore) |
