Author |
Message |
PeterResanceff
Unregistered guest Posted From: 58.84.102.125
| Posted on Tuesday, 24 September, 2024 - 08:29: | |
The grille emblem on my 1973 Shadow (SRH 14797) has come loose and I'm wondering if anyone has a tip as to the right adhesive to use to reattach it. (The current adhesive seemed to 'melt' in the sun/engine heat; a black substance that turned to mush!).
(Message approved by david_gore) |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 3388 Registered: 06-2009
| Posted on Wednesday, 25 September, 2024 - 01:37: | |
My personal suggestion would be E6000 adhesive as a first choice or, possibly, an epoxy that's quick setting and heat resistant as a second. I generally love epoxy glue, but over very long periods of time it can crack and it does not remain flexible, so if it cracks "enough" and in the presence of constant vibration, the thing affixed could end up falling off. E6000 remains flexible once cured and, in my experience, keeps a "death grip" on what's affixed with it, even things that constantly have to flex after glued. It will also withstand a very wide temperature range once cured. See: https://eclecticproducts.com/product/e6000-industrial-adhesive/ Specifically the TDS: https://eclecticproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/tds-e6000-industrial-english-clear-us_ca-mex.pdf The initial set is very fast. I've never had it take 20 minutes for a small dot/thin film to set. Thicker applications do take longer to initially set and cure. Brian
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Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 2594 Registered: 09-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, 25 September, 2024 - 17:53: | |
"and in the presence of constant vibration," My goodness B. Vogel your cars engine etc must be running rough in the presence of constant vibration, no vibration on a RR thank you. With regard to peters fixing of the badge a dab of Gorilla Glue (it will expand 3-4 times while curing) in the center of the badge clamp or apply pressure to the badge for 24hrs. It is waterproof and for indoor and outdoor use. . |
Brian Vogel
Grand Master Username: guyslp
Post Number: 3389 Registered: 06-2009
| Posted on Thursday, 26 September, 2024 - 00:25: | |
Patrick, If you think that an operating car, any car, is not in the presence of pretty much constant vibration as a condition of use, well . . . You really do say the dumbest things. Think a bit before you speak. Brian |
Jason Watson
Frequent User Username: crikeydawn
Post Number: 240 Registered: 07-2023
| Posted on Thursday, 26 September, 2024 - 12:58: | |
Sika 252, or probably any Sikaflex product would suffice. Won't crack, perish, sag, or weather. Deals with vibrations and used to hold tilt panel building together. Clean up with turps before cure, mechanical removal thereafter. Get it from Bunnings in various sizes, white, grey or black. |
Patrick Lockyer.
Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer
Post Number: 2595 Registered: 09-2004
| Posted on Thursday, 26 September, 2024 - 22:00: | |
(so if it cracks "enough" and in the presence of constant vibration,) To help B Vogel. To help you understand no Vibrations within the the body and power unit etc on a RR.Shadow running correctly. First of all RR development with the Shadow all vibration was no go, the engine is mounted on the sub frame by the engine mounts..The hole body Is isolated with the fixing to sub frame with rubber mountings. The mounts can be fitted incorrectly. So to help you with your vibration transmitted enough to loosen a badge in your eyes ETC! your engine must have some major running faults. Do check your car for dynamic imbalance with the crankshaft metalastik rubber vibration damper first. The flex-plate problems with converter causing vibrations + many more dynamic probs with in a clapped out motor. So to give and imply the something as simple as a badge coming loose is caused by body engine constant vibration is crap but with your car being normal in your eyes with vibrations point me to confirm your car needs help! |