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Mujahid Khan
Experienced User
Username: anjumkha

Post Number: 16
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Sunday, 11 June, 2006 - 11:38:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

SS II 1977
The manual recommends a special toll RH 7126 to remove the cylinder head nuts. Is this tool a must?

What other special tools are required,if any,to change the head gaskets?


M Khan
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy

Post Number: 1010
Registered: 4-2003
Posted on Sunday, 11 June, 2006 - 20:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The tool RH7126 is merely an 11/16" box spanner. Any good SAE socket set will have an appropriate 11/16" AF socket which will in fact do the job more safely and adapt to a standard torque wrench. First tightening down is to 20-25 lbft in sequence, followed by 50-55lbft final tightening, best done in three or four increments.

You will have an ideal opportunity to remove, inspect, open up and clean out the hydraulic tappets with very little additional effort. It is most unwise to replace any tappet unless its face is visibly scuffed: new tappets cause a little cam lobe wear as they bed in. Almost nothing else can go wrong apart from the inevitable build-up of sludge inside them, or in very unusual cases a damaged or sagged spring. In the case of a bad spring, it is far better to replace the spring than the entire tappet if its face is unscuffed, Be sure not to mix them up: each tappet should go back exactly where it came from, so they are best done one at a time. Reseal the valley cover (tappet chest cover) with a medium smear of quality Silicone RTV (Loctite 596 OEM Grade Gasket Maker is best) on the joint rather than the recommended Wellseal. Modern RTVs are so good that I never use the sealing thread originally used.

Have fun !