| Author | Message | ||
     Dick Wood Experienced User Username: woody Post Number: 11 Registered: 3-2005 |
I just spent 2 hours in the high heat replacing a rear spring in my 79 SS2 to cure a case of saggy bum. After removal I noticed the spring was the same length as the one I was using to replace it with. The replacement came from a 78 SS2 with a correct ride height. I figured the new spring might be a bit stiffer. No such luck. It still sags. What can I do to raise the back end up to acceptable levels? Both springs measure around 21 1/2 inches The rear end is equally low on either side. I did not bother to change the other side. Any suggestions?? | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 491 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Dick, The only effective solution is to use the "colonial springs" fitted to export cars for Australia and other far-flung places in the old Empire. These are identical in height and O.D. to the standard springs but are made from a larger diameter rod to make them more resistant to compression - unfortunately I do not have access to my archives however if my memory is reliable; the rod diameter is 1/8inch [3.25mm] greater than standard. Suitable springs are available in Australia through the following suppliers: Robert Chapman Automotive: http://www.rachapmanautomotive.com.au/ K-Mac Suspension http://www.k-mac.com.au/ Lovells Springs http://www.lovells.com.au/ | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 860 Registered: 4-2003 |
David, That's part of the story, but with a caution. Changing the rear springs to Colonial springs on a car not originally so fitted alone will be a start, but the car will be very skittish and tend to spin out in any damp weather. The simplest part-remedy is to fit those rear Colonial springs and remove the rear antiroll bar to restore some balance. The next is to fit Colonial rear springs and an early Turbo R front antiroll bar, and retain the rear one. The Turbo R antiroll bar and solid linkages bolt on. Next in complexity is four Colonial springs, retain the original front antiroll bar, and delete the rear antiroll bar, but I prefer the previous solution. If you wish to retain a super soft ride, this is the best option. Cornering is already vastly improved with this option. The penultimate is four Colonial springs and a Turbo R front antiroll bar, retaining the original rear antiroll bar. That is pretty close to being the same as the ulimate but hugely expensive handling kits from Harvey-Bailey or Crewe. Note that no cars with Colonial springs originally have a rear antiroll bar for the above reasons. Even then they are a bit skittish as the rear is still held down a little too tight given the slightly excessive roll at the front. RT. | ||
| Dick Wood Experienced User Username: woody Post Number: 12 Registered: 3-2005 |
The oddity of my problem is that the springs were the right height for the 78 but low on the 79. Am I missing something? If I remove the anti roll bar without changing the springs will it give me more altitude, will it affect safety? | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 862 Registered: 4-2003 |
A very short answer, No to altitude, yes to safety. A slightly longer answer: shock absorbers and antiroll bars do not affect standing height, but those and spring rates do affect balance and handling, and therefore safety, enormously. RT. | ||
| Adrian Jump U.K. Unregistered guest Posted From: 213.249.162.132 |
A little late in the day but nobody has mentioned the fact that the rear springs are 'shimmable', i.e. you can add shims(spacers) to achieve the correct standing height (up to a maximum number of shims obviously). I am not at home at the moment and cannot therefore refer to the manual, I am sure Richard will oblige. Make sure you do not accidentally or otherwise! set the self levelling link arms to compensate for a sagging rear end as many people do. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 81.168.83.66 |
My rear springs are original and have sagged (1974 SS1). So as a temporary measure I fitted rubber blocks between the coils which are meant for towing. I also fitted some to the front as well. This improved the car much . I keep meaning to do the job properly but never get the time. When the engine is off the car sinks about 1/2 inch over night. This is because the ride height system is picking the car up. Some will say that this is a bad idea because that is not how the car was designed. BUT. because the ride height is working all the time it keeps it in good order. I often carry rear seat passengers so the ride height gets a good work out. What happens is that the rams extended and any air lurching around goes into the ram then when the car is left overnight the weight of the car pushes the air back to the reservoir. I have never had any problems with ride height or bleeding. lastly I run my tyres at 32 psi --- I tried 35 but it was slightly too much. Before you go to the trouble of different roll bars do check tyre pressures, because altering the tyre pressure may be enough. If not then roll bars. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 453 Registered: 9-2004 |
Hi Bob only just seen your posting yes i agree with all the hydralics in good working order. Fitted low down so on the compression loading the bump stop is still functional. A must with LPG and a full load, in my opinon. I know some fit heavy duty springs to get over some probs but the ride is not so good. Think i have heard about doing a mod on the fitment of antiroll bars. A job for the winter me thinks. Sorry to hear about the signs,i thought all of where you live had escaped that sort of thing.  |
