| Author | Message | ||
     Dick Wood Yet to post message Username: woody Post Number: 1 Registered: 3-2005 |
I am having a problem with my SS2. At stoplights my rolls rocks back and forth sideways. Very noticeable to me. Is this an electrical or carb problem. New plugs seemed to help for awhile as did cap and rotor. To save time and bother what should I try next? I have new plug wires on order. | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 427 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Dick, Sounds like you have a problem commonly known as "lumpy idle", it may be caused by electrical, carburettor and/or mechanical problems. You mention changing the plugs + new cap/rotor fixed the problem temporarily so this suggests it is related to the fuel/carburettor system or possibly the emission control system fitted to your car. Can you advise the appearance of the spark plugs when they were removed from the engine; were they uniform in appearance or were some worse than others? Were they black in appearance or tan/orange/grey in colour? Did they look oily? Would you please advise your car serial number so more specific advice can be given. | ||
| Dick Wood New User Username: woody Post Number: 2 Registered: 3-2005 |
The plugs looked okay but 2 were a bit more carboned up but still not bad. Is there a simple carb set up I could do? The car serial numbers are 79 Silver Shadow 2 SRK 35627 78 Silver Shadow 2 parts car. Number unavailable 57 Bentley B 318 FA | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 430 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Dick, Your information suggests fuel mixture is not a problem so your emission control system may be at fault. As a matter of interest, when you get the "lumpy idle" can you hear a metallic tapping from the engine at the same time? | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 138 Registered: 10-2003 |
This is a guess, without seeing the vehicle. I recently repaired a 1978 SS2 with the same symptoms. The problem was weak spark from a failing ignition system. The owner had me install a Pertronix system. http://www.pertronix.com/ other options I have installed are: Mallory Ignition and Crane Cams http://www.cranecams.com/ The sad part it that if it is weak ignition, often the excess fuel melts the catalytic converters installed in USA vehicles. If you do not have emission testing where you are, some people have knocked the catalyst out and reinstalled them, warning this is not legal in some areas. | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 128 Registered: 2-2005 |
whunter, That is interesting re the Crane Cams. You learn something every day: I wasn't aware they did a cam for RR/B's...I couldn't find a listing on their site. Do you have any more details eg/ Crane part no. and what are the cam specs/characteristics? Crane Cams are readily available via numerous agents in Australia, and the info may be useful to Aussie and other owners. Thanks, GN. | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 139 Registered: 10-2003 |
Crane Cams Ignitions & Electronics. No information on their cams. | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 129 Registered: 2-2005 |
Sorry Whunter! I see what you mean, I totally misinterpreted what you wrote and thought you had installed a crane cam, not one of their ignitions. I now see I am a dill!  ..my apologies. GN. | ||
| Dick Wood New User Username: woody Post Number: 3 Registered: 3-2005 |
I will try installing a new coil. I already bought a performance coil and have been waiting for good weather to install it. I do not hear any metalic clicking when the engine runs rough but then again I think the engine runs noisy compared to what I have always believed a RR engine would sound like. I removed the airpump and that quieted things down a lot but there is still a lot of noise from the other things spinning around on the engine  | ||
| Patrick Lockyer. Grand Master Username: pat_lockyer Post Number: 402 Registered: 9-2004 |
Waste of your time fitting a new coil. The primary and certainly the secondry will not effect just one cylinder miss fire. Do an ohms test on the HT leads first or wait to your new plug HT leads arrive. It seems you know a little that can be dangerous if not tested in the correct manner,wasted money on parts not required. ho hummmmmm! you have just bought a sports coil "o dear" more wasted money. Whunter has stated a common fault with the electronic distributor, but unless you have professinal tools you will not be able to test and repair the unit. More in due course! | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 432 Registered: 4-2003 |
Hi Dick, The reason behind the question regarding the metallic tapping was to see if you had a stuck hydraulic lifter causing the related valve to not operate correctly but this does not seem to be the problem from your information. As a matter of interest, I would run the car in the dark one evening and look for arcing/listen for arcing from the HT leads [you should also hear this arcing as static on an AM radio, tuned to the 1500Khz region {but not on a radio station}, placed close to the engine]. Arcing under the lead cover plates may not be visible but the sound should be audible and the point of arcing evident if the covers are removed. Sorry cannot help with the emission system as I have no experience with them. | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 140 Registered: 10-2003 |
The last Pertronix unit was less than $100.00 USD. A friend read this thread, called to remind me that the last Rolls-Royce defective ignition system I replaced; was replaced with a Mallory distributor http://www.partshp.com/mallory.htm Cost roughly $135.00 USD. The suggestion of "David Gore", is a good one. I would add a hand pump spray bottle, set to mist/fog. You will need a torch/flashlight. In the dark, give the ignition wires a light coating of moisture. Start the engine. Danger: Do NOT touch any ignition wires = electric shock hazard. Look for Blue or Yellow sparks/flashes, and listen for a sharp snapping sound, if either are found = replace ignition wires. The far more common problem is weak spark; from a failing ignition system. | ||
| Dick Wood New User Username: woody Post Number: 4 Registered: 3-2005 |
Since I had already wasted my money on a new performance coil I decided to waste my time and installed it. Might be my imagination but I think the car runs a lot smoother.Tomorrow I will pick up my new ignition wires. Thanks for all the help on this matter. Could there be a problem running a hotter spark from the new coil? | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 141 Registered: 10-2003 |
No issue or worry over your new coil. The old one is beyond twenty years old, and OEM life was five years 100,000 miles. I would not call that a premature failed part or a waste of money, just preventative maintenance. | ||
| Adrian Jump Unregistered guest Posted From: 213.249.162.132 |
When it comes to ignition coils you really need an analyser to see exactly what is happening. When I put my Shadow 11 on the Cudos it showed up as having low coil output, fitting a new coil showed it to be then 'chucking' out even less KV at 17,000, although the spark line duration had increased to the required 1ms minimum. . I had to get it changed for another. Rotor to distributor cap voltage can also be incorrect. I changed all the ignition components as a routine job as they are not designed to last indefinately. You need to also check the timing and operation of the mechanical and vaccum advance mechanisms. I used the Cudos analyser which I find easy to use as it guides you through a logical test sequence highlighting any deficiencies as you go. As an aside, which you may or may not agree with, I was told by an independent Shadow specialist of excellent repute that the Shadow does suffer from lumpy idling, a cure for this he told me if all normal servicing channels fail is to fit the Turbo R spark plugs. Cost a lot more but apparantly cures a lot of the lumpiness. I personally found that replacing the 'consumable' ignition components ( leads, dist. cap, rotor etc) and running 97 RoN fuel cured any lumpiness. I don't know if you have the usual weakener system there but that can play havoc if not correctly operating. Any chafing in vacuum pipes will destroy the vacuum amd raise the fuellevel in the carbs (S.U in the case of the U.K ) giving a richer mixture. The weakener filter is another service item often ignored due to it's stupid cost. I'm afraid that in order to cure a problem you really need to go through the whole systems with some form of analyser instead of picking out one item. Any good auto shop should connect up and run a test with print out for a reasonable fee. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Dick Wood New User Username: woody Post Number: 6 Registered: 3-2005 |
Ya got me on that one. What and where is the weakener? | ||
| Gordon Norris Prolific User Username: crewes_missile Post Number: 141 Registered: 2-2005 |
Woody, Opposite the strengthener..  GN. | ||
| whunter Prolific User Username: whunter Post Number: 142 Registered: 10-2003 |
The weakener. I showed you the device with snap rings, O rings need replacement. It has four hoses going to the aluminum unit, above left valve cover, middle of valve cover. | ||
| Dick Wood New User Username: woody Post Number: 7 Registered: 3-2005 |
I remember the part but forgot the technical term for it. Thanks, getting older and of all the things I have ever lost I miss my mind the most. |
