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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.73
Posted on Monday, 11 August, 2014 - 08:18 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Before welding have water available. Any concerns about the petrol tank means remove tank and place put side. Sparks will damage trim glass chrome and paint. Leather is good for stopping sparks. I have leather apron which is handy for protection.

The outside stuff such as wing lips around the wheels are easy to weld.
Chassis and floor stuff is harder because of position. Welding is easy with ideal access.

To make things easier always try to weld from the top. And if necessary remove good metal work to get in there refit the good bit back. I have found that welding a seam next to other bits while in an awkward position leads to inferior work.

Steel body shells of 40 years old rust anywhere it wants to. The Shadow and later cars are unlikely to have serious structural rust. However check all subframe mounting areas. Most chassis stuff is flat with right angles which are easy to make. General tolerance is 1mm but if subframe mounting are involved try to get closer.

This means datum points and measurement. Datum points could be a 1/8 hole drilled for that purpose.

I have seen mistakes made of even as big as an inch which went unnoticed untill the axles were mounted and the wheel base measured. That happened because of confusing datum points and sloppy recording.

All the joints used are either butt or lap. Butt joints for where there wasn't a joint and the rest are laps of various configurations.

Lap joints in outer panels for repair sections will mean filler and what ever type is used it wasn't there when the car was new.

This sort of welding takes skill and knowledge.

(Message approved by david_gore)
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Jan Forrest
Grand Master
Username: got_one

Post Number: 609
Registered: 1-2008
Posted on Monday, 11 August, 2014 - 10:10 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Just because the hole can be covered by a banknote it doesn't mean that the rot has only gone that far. In most cases you'll be chopping out 2, 3 or even 4 times as much 'metal' before you get back to solid steel. Sills (inner and outer), wings (ditto) and floor panels are the worst for this kind of 'creeping rot'.

Although the outer panels are still very good, with only a few minor blebs, the floor on my Shadow has got a hole in the driver's side floor at the worst possible point: Over the rat trap! By the time I've cut out all the rot I expect that the trap cover and all the braking components will have dropped off. Until I get her into my new garage (still unfinished) I won't know exactly how bad it is. Fortunately my MIG welding skills are very nearly up to the job and, as I'm still working on them, should be up to snuff by the time I'm ready to have a go.
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Bob uk
Unregistered guest
Posted From: 94.197.122.82
Posted on Tuesday, 12 August, 2014 - 04:32 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I know what you mean Jan.

I would like an inspection panel above the rat trap so I can gaze upon its bits.

Good luck with the rust hole and don't weld yourself into a corner.

(Message approved by david_gore)

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