| Author | Message | ||
     Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 838 Registered: 6-2009 |
There seem to be more types of grease out there than I can keep track of. At the same time I've not found any "Greases for Dummies" type document or chart that shows when and on what to use each type. I've had a container of white lithium grease for at least 30 years now that I used a dab from years ago based on "appearance matching." If anyone knows of a simple "quick and dirty" reference that indicates what type(s) of grease are typically used in specific application(s) then please share. Brian | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1430 Registered: 6-2006 |
On RR's - if it needs extreme pressure graphite grease, it will have a hex nipple on it. It's more expensive and 'dirtier' in use so not popular everywhere. There's too much to write on grease for me to cover, but I hope that might help. Also the additives in Grease does go off. | ||
| David Hughes Frequent User Username: wedcar Post Number: 52 Registered: 7-2004 |
Brian The handbook on these cars details the greases and the companies that supply them, to be used in the various locations on the car. Most of the greases have now been superseded by products with different names even though the grease may be very similar to the original, ie lithium base with various additives. An email to the major brands technical help should give the updated version of the original product. It is important not to mix different TYPES of grease, if unsure, clean out all the old grease thoroughly and refill with the new product. Trust this helps. Regards. David. | ||
| ChristopherCarnley Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.164.119.58 |
For high speed applications like hub bearings, use soft hub grease lithium or with added PTFE. For super extreme application MS3 and Bentonite based grease in booted devices such as CV joints which were not viable before its advent, see the history of the Citroen Lt 15 (Normale) drive lines. High temperature locations, ie seized valve stems, graphite based grease. Water pump Stauffers, calcium base grease. Brake rubbers, red vegetable oil based grease. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 848 Registered: 5-2015 |
there is 2 bits to grease. The type of "soap" and the type of oil. Some greases are real soap with mineral oil. The range is huge so huge that RR just pick out a couple of choices and leave it at that. I use Castrol chassis grease lithium base for UJs and suspension and clevis pins and cables. For electrical switch gear moving bits petroleum jelly because it doesn't stain interior trim. Anything RR363. I use red rubber grease. Clevis I use oil first and then cover with grease to keep the oil in. What is the plural of clevis, cleviises, clevi. For door locks etc I have a selection of sprays.. I like the 3 in 1 oil aerosol. If one of the chrome screws is removed that hold the lock to the door frame, oil can be squirted in the lock. I can't remember which one. For the actual key and lock wards and plungers. Soft graphite pencil on sand paper. Sprinkle graphite powder on key as the key is push into the lock. Also Izzume roller chain grease. This is for melting and soaking roller chains in then hang chain up. When cold the grease solidifys in side the chain bits. This grease when cold is thicker than chassis grease. Ideal for cables but the cable has to be removed for the car. Which is relatively easy. Also I have drilled small holes in sealed bearings soaked in melted grease and sealed the hole with a blob of silicon. Graphite grease. This is mainly used in CV joints. It can also be used as a general purpose chassis grease. Water proof grease. Usually cream coloured or white. This ideal for water pumps that have weepy seals. Modern water pumps don't have weepy seals of old and on cars there's not really much use for. Bath room taps?. Trefolux. This is cutting grease used for drilling and tapping. I use this to save on tool wear and give a better finish. The main thing is that with in reason any oil is better than no oil. Providing one doesn't do stupid things like using engine oil in the gear box and gets the main bits right then the rest is common sense like not using thick sticky grease on seat slides. A big fur ball will jam the seat. | ||
| Omar M. Shams Grand Master Username: omar Post Number: 521 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Brian, I have been bitten by new greases in the past - Rocol Sapphire to be precise. This grease has application in industry and I read those across to the car industry only to fall flat on my face. I was a young Engineer in those days and I was "experimenting". Rocol Sapphire worked so well in our harsh outdoor saline environment that I thought it was magic. It does not work well on cars..... the components separate and you are left with soap only. The good old fashion wheel bearing grease is what I now use as a generic grease for all "old car applications". Don't go using this stuff in modern cars...... Bob - I use waterproof grease in the wheel bearings of my boat trailer. There is no substitute in this application. Omar | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 277 Registered: 10-2008 |
I use MS3 grease in all applications on all of my cars where Lithium base grease is specified, except for linkages etc where there is exposure to moisture when I use RENOLIT AQUA 2 calcium based grease. This stays firmly in place even in winter conditions . Mark | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 849 Registered: 5-2015 |
I was going to mention wheel bearings that get wet. But it is really a specialist application. The point I am making is that say one uses chassis grease to lub the ride height link ball joints. Although this is the wrong grease I can't imagine it would cause a problem. Where as bone dry will cause wear. Even engine oil would be better than nothing. RR being a small volume car maker has selected greases that will work in all markets, some of these markets are harsh like the Australian outback and red dust wash board roads. RR dropped a clanger in the 1950s with the Mk6 Bentleys RR under estimated the harsh ness of OZ roads. The chassis cracked around the front suspension area. MODERATOR ADVICE: Due to the response to Bob's comment immediately above, a new page titled "Australian Experience with Chassis Cracks" has been opened in the Early Post-War Topic and posts relating to this comment have been transferred to it. This page may be accessed by the following link: http://au.rrforums.net/forum/messages/16999/19340.html?1454902383 I wouldn't myself worry about all these specialist greases. Unless the car is being used in conditions where normal greases are problematic. Normal road use in the UK does not really require special greases. | ||
| Mark Aldridge Prolific User Username: mark_aldridge Post Number: 278 Registered: 10-2008 |
Apologies all, the grease I use is http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_61/7438.pdf not MS3, my typo. Mark |
