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Australian RR Forums » Miscellaneous » Threads to 2010 » 1968 Shadow 1L/H rear ride levelling ram cannot undo as threads seemto have 33 years of 'Stuck togetherness' Any suggestions would be welcomer « Previous Next »

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Ray Dawson
Posted on Wednesday, 01 August, 2001 - 16:17:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have a 'C' spanner on the piston spannering slots with some tension and soaking in WD40. See page G56 of the manual for illustration.
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Roy Tilley
Posted on Thursday, 02 August, 2001 - 19:45:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The main problem is that the seals in the ram have leaked and the escaping brake fluid has attracted moisture from the atmosphere which then causes the steel threads to rust together. After all why else do you want to pull the rams off if they're not leaking?

The threads are therefore held together by far more torque than was originally applied at the factory 33 years ago, and unless someone has removed them recently, you will need much more force than is implied by the workshop manual and its C spanner. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the rams are screwed into a fitting on top of the coil spring so there is 'give' in the system, rather than leaning on something solid.

The only solution, if CRC or WD40, the C spanner and 3 foot extension pieces of 1" galvanised pipe don't work, is quite simply brute force and bloody ignorance. In other words a 4lb hammer and a carefully ground square-ended punch and of course more and more WD40. (And WD40 is made even more effective with the addition of some blood from skinned knuckles.)

Yes, I know FHR is now spinning at far above the red line in his grave, and I should be drummed out of the RR movement, but THERE IS NO OTHER WAY!!! And I know from personal bitter experience that this method works,- eventually!

And then you go down to your local friendly machine shop to get the slots and lugs on the ram re-welded and cut back to shape.

Good luck and keep on slogging.

Roy Tilley
Technical Liaison Officer
New Zealand Rolls-Royce and Bentley Club.
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R Dawson
Posted on Friday, 03 August, 2001 - 17:41:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thank you for the interest, you have confirmed my thinking on the subject, I may have to do without the luxury of the ride levelling, but I will keep trying for a few days.R.D.
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Roy Tilley
Posted on Friday, 03 August, 2001 - 20:58:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

OK, but remember that ride levelling is not just a luxury to prevent VIP's from slopping their G & T in the back seat. It also and primarily, serves to keep the drive shafts in line under all load conditions. Otherwise excessive wear and vibration of the outboard universals and the Detroit joints will occur if they run for long periods of time at excessive angles.
And while we are on the subject do please regularly grease these outboard universals (No grease nipple? Unscrew the small hex plug and screw in a nipple.) They can cause very unpleasant knocking when going from drive to over-run and back.

Regards

Roy Tilley
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R Dawson
Posted on Saturday, 04 August, 2001 - 17:15:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

To Roy Tilley, brute force and ignorance has won the day again, no blood but plenty of WD40, ie: 4lb hammer and a ground to shape punch, I will do that to the U/J's thank you for the tip,Ray Dawson.
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Bill Coburn
Posted on Sunday, 05 August, 2001 - 10:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I have struck this problem twice and found the best preserver of one's knuckles, respiration, temper and general demeanour was to use a pneumatic chisel. Unless you have a decent compressor you will need to take it to an appropriate shop. The hydraulic lines can be blocked off with good old ball bearings to get the car to the operating theatre. The inertia of the spring mount and the sudden machine gun-like thumps from the rattle gun usually overcomes the problem.

At the same time do not under-estimate the efficacy of WD40 and similar products. In cases of serious sticking such as jammed rams, I rig up a reservoir of WD40 with a wick wound around the affected area and the other end in a bottle. This ensures that the whole area gets a continual bath where it is needed and avoids having half the stuff finishing up on the floor.
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Roy Tilley
Posted on Monday, 06 August, 2001 - 21:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Bill, for your greater refinement of technique, to say nothing of greater ecological sensitivity.
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Ray Dawson
Posted on Monday, 20 August, 2001 - 21:06:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

The Problem is now solved and my car is back to fighting fit, if anyone needs spares my supplier is Healey bros in UK unreservedly reccomended,feel free to mention my name.