| Author | Message | ||
     Daniel Diewerge New User Username: didi13109 Post Number: 4 Registered: 11-2009 |
Hello, I am asking myself how the undersides of SZ cars where finished when they left the factory. I know that the bodyshell underside was covered with a thick coat of undercoating but when the car was assembled, what happenend to the aluminum heat shields, the subframes, suspension parts etc. Where they left bare, painted or were they also coated with some wax or tar? Cheers Sebastian | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 535 Registered: 6-2006 |
Daniel, I think it was destination / dealer choice, or seems to be. Some have plenty, some have none. Rustproofing was very hit and miss. I waxoyl all our clients cars in black waxoyl to include suspension, pipes and just about everything you can get to. Aluminium was tried to be left bare. Pop out the rear springs if you can, clean out and rustproof the trailing arm spring cups & cones etc ( if it isn't too late already  ) Top up the rustproofing every year as needed. You can never have enough. But don't do it while there's salt on the roads! :/ | ||
| Clifford Donley Experienced User Username: flatus Post Number: 46 Registered: 12-2009 |
Paul, here in the States, the quality of dealer applied undercoating was so hit and miss that more damage was done, through voids in which salty water was trapped, than good. Because of that, consumer advocates generally recommended against buying cars that were undercoated. As in most things, technique is everything. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 537 Registered: 6-2006 |
Once again, as I always mention, it's a case of looking at each individual car. I'd prefer a car that was well rustproofed underneath, with little or no rust, than one that is rusty but has in it's history that it had been rustproofed. "Because of that, consumer advocates generally recommended against buying cars that were undercoated. " - or is this referring to cars that have been undersealed later in life in an effort to hide rust and damage etc? Waxoyl everything is my advice. Don't use underbody coating or stonechip. I can't think of anything that can be adversely affected by waxoyl. Clean out drains etc afterwards, which you should be doing at each service in any case. Do try and keep it off the exhaust though - it will smell for ages! ALWAYS clean out the lip inside the rear wing wheel-arch. The amount of cars that come in with 10 years road salt and dirt sitting on there still amazes me. And then owners complain about how bad the rear arches are for rusting out! A plastic hoofpick is ideal for this. | ||
| Jeffrey McCarthy Prolific User Username: jefmac2003 Post Number: 195 Registered: 5-2007 |
Paul do you know if Waxoyl is the same stuff as 'cavity wax'? Also the Waxoyl available in Australia is clear - apparently there's reputed to be a black Waxoyl as well. I've been told by a reputable mechanic on these cars that fish oil is probably as good as anything but I've sprayed cavity wax into various crevices like the double skin under the rear bumper and inside various hollow struts underneath etc. and fish oil everywhere else except the exhaust. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 538 Registered: 6-2006 |
Yes it's similar to cavity wax. I don't know Fish Oil so can't comment. Black waxoil is available. Black gives a much better looking finish under the car. Use it as a runny mixture so it flows into any surface rust. Waxoyl also has a rust converter in it but it's mild so only works on surface rust. Clean off any rust you can and certainly any flaking rust. Keep it thin and top up missed areas each year. | ||
| Clifford Donley Experienced User Username: flatus Post Number: 49 Registered: 12-2009 |
"Because of that, consumer advocates generally recommended against buying cars that were undercoated. " - or is this referring to cars that have been undersealed later in life in an effort to hide rust and damage etc?" Paul, back in the '50s and '60s American dealers had their margins squeezed so they would add 'dealer installed' options. One of the options was application of asphalt-like sprayed on undercoating that cost the dealers very little but was sold at a relatively high price. The people installing the undercoating were typically not genuine craftsmen, but people at the bottom of the pecking-order. Over the years it became apparent that this type of dealer installed undercoating was not serving consumers well. The practice was discredited and reputable dealers stopped selling it. The type of product you advocate, applied by a skilled craftsman, is certainly a different kettle of fish. But older vehicles, especially those in America, can still be found with asphalt undercoating. If I was to come across one of them, I would certainly look for an engineer such as you to evaluate it before making a purchase. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 539 Registered: 6-2006 |
Clifford, I know (and hate) the type of product you describe. (As you can probably tell from my previous warning!  ) It does sit on top of everything and nobody can tell what's going on underneath! It's even worse on a used car - sealing in salt and moisture so it can do it's worst unseen! | ||
| Clifford Donley Experienced User Username: flatus Post Number: 50 Registered: 12-2009 |
Paul, remembering back, fish oil was the thinner specified for Rustoleum, I don't recall if it was touted as an active ingredient as well. |
