| Author | Message | ||||
     EugeneO Unregistered guest Posted From: 79.139.240.85 |
Posting as guest until my new registration gets approved. Dear all, I am from Russia and have recently purchased Silver Spur II in a really poor condition. The car has been standing outside since '99 without any driving. The odometer clock reads 89 000 km, which is approx 50 000 miles. I intend to restore the car to the original condition. I have looked through the library but failed to find a list of work that needs to be done during that big and expensive 50k mile service. Would someone to point me in the right direction for the 50k list please? I know that since the car hasn't been operated for so long, I need a thorough inspection on everything and so far identified the following needs replacement: + Brakes: calipers need rebuilding, brake discs either machined or replaced, brake distributor replaced, new handbrake cable and pads + Engine: new oil sump, gaskets, reconditioned coolant pump, new thermostat, new distributor drive belt, new dip stick, oil, filters etc. Possibly spark pulgs too. + Suspension: new lower ball joints, new back shocks (looking for a good price on these ones), all new bearings and possibly rebuilding the steering rack. Re: steering rack - I have seen mentions of the rebuild kit from Richard Treacy in the Turbo R boost thread. I have also looked at the Tee One that was mentioned. Are there any rebuilding kits readily available for purchase? Thanks in advance for any advice you folks can give! (Message approved by david_gore) | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Yet to post message Username: eugenerus Post Number: 1 Registered: 8-2009 |
Found the steering overhaul kit at both of the European suppliers. The 50k question remains unanswered though. I hope someone will be able to point me out where to get it. | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 391 Registered: 6-2006 |
Welcome Eugene, The only savings on the list I can suggest is Lower Ball joint repair kits are available. Unfortunately the Balls themselves do tent to rust and lose their surface, in which case a new BJ is called for. Water Pump. Exchange units usually work out cheaper than the R-R parts separately. (Although I haven't sent parts to Russia for years, so I'm not sure of the carriage prices. Parking brake cables. If the outer hasn't 'burst' or cracked, you can often free them out and work lubricant along their whole length. (hang them vertically and be patient. What problem are you having with the back shocks? Solid? Often gas springs are the more probable fault. weeping, Often they get better with use. Sump - loose bolts are normally the cause of leaks. Annual or 5000 nile tightening required. Brake distribution valves - If they are weeping, they usually improve with use. I'd wait and see, bearing in mind they are a 'loss lubricant' item. Feel free to email me on my profile address if you need more details. Good luck Eugene. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik New User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 2 Registered: 8-2009 |
Thanks Paul! The ball joints have corroded badly and the service suggested full relacement. The reconditioned water pump is on the way to me. Thanks for the suggestion on the parking brake cables! Back shocks are leaking. Once I get the car operational, I will do the driving and testing before I replace anything in suspension. Sump has been damaged badly - I think the car has done a bit of off-roading before finally resting for 10 years. Brake distribution valves - leaking really really badly. See the picture of the brake fluid on the floor below.  | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 392 Registered: 6-2006 |
Eugene, Not sure what's what in the photo. The hydraulic fluid for the brakes and suspension should be a dark green colour. From the picture, it appears to be mainly coolant? Regards, Paul. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik New User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 3 Registered: 8-2009 |
Yes, the water pump was leaking too so maybe that's a coolant. As mentioned, the workshop guys claimed there was a bad leak in the distributor and that it needs to be changed. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 17 Registered: 8-2009 |
There's some progress with my car. I have received all the parts from my big list and sent my Silver Spur to the workshop today. Hopefully, I will be able to drive it for the first time soon.  I would like to say big thanks to Paul who has supplied the parts at a great cost and has taken extra care to deliver the stuff to Russia. Will post on the progress more later... Regarding the 50k mile service schedule and list. Attached is the schedule list. I hope this helps others too.
The corresponding letters for the intervals are as described in this doc:
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| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 19 Registered: 8-2009 |
Some bad news from Russia... The works have been finished but the workshop discovered a carck across the engine block on both sides. Looking back at the condition in which I got the car - the water pump was leaking and the previous owner must have used pure water to top-up. The Russian frost did the rest. I did take the car to the workshop for all tests before purchasing it. It was not possible to see the cracks unless you took the exhaust manifolds off. I am extremely disappointed and am now looking at several options. Will take the most cost-effective decision. The options are: 1. Bore and Weld the block (no need for disassembly) 2. Buy a used or new block only (needs loads of assembly work) 3. Buy a rebuilt engine - I would prefer this option but I suspect the rebuilt engine will cost me a fortune. Would love to hear some opinions on this one. | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Frequent User Username: omar Post Number: 78 Registered: 4-2009 |
Eugene, I am gutted for you. This has to be the worst news any Rolls-Royce owner can have. Are you sure that the block is cracked and that the leak is not from a joint/plug? If it was my car and I had to take a decission (and I was 100% sure that the block is cracked - without a shadow of a doubt) I would buy a good used engine and drop it in. I don't know how expensive things are in Russia, but in Dubai, we can buy a complete car for around US$9,000. Good luck. Omar | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 20 Registered: 8-2009 |
Omar, that is a definite crack. Longer on one side. Rust and liquid coming along the visible crackline. Would have taken a photo but was so devastated that didn't think of it. | ||||
| Stefan Morley Prolific User Username: myupctoys Post Number: 119 Registered: 7-2009 |
Eugene, Ditto with Omars comment. Know how I'd feel. Presumably these are the cracks you can see. Irrespective of if the visible cracks can be repaired, what are the odds of problems you cant see. Is there anyone that reconditions these engines that has experience enough to make comment on how the cracks perpetuate themselves through the block. Think if I was stuck in that position I'd buy a wrecked car of the same year model. If you bought just an engine it would probably be a lot more than a whole car. Remove the engine, salvage useful parts and send the rest back to the wreckers. Im sure any comments from people will just sound hollow. Sorry Comisserations Stefan | ||||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 914 Registered: 4-2003 |
My initial reaction would be to consider the engine a "write-off" if the cracking was due to freezing. The fracture will be extensive in this situation as the engine alloy would have been well below its ductile/brittle transition temperature and would have very little resistance to crack propagation once a crack was initiated by the stress induced by freezing of the coolant. The only question I have is whether the cooling system was subjected to a "leak-down" test as part of the pre-purchase inspection. I suspect this test would have revealed a pressure drop indicating a problem requiring investigation. Omar's advice re the cost of second hand vehicles in his part of the world has a lot of merit - I would consider purchasing a car similar to yours for keeping as a source of future parts and have its engine rebuilt for installation in your current car [see Bill Coburn's recent editions of Tee One topics for the "words and music" on how this can be done]. The final decision will depend on how long you intend keeping the car as the cost will probably not be fully recovered if the car is sold in the next decade or two. | ||||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 2000 Registered: 4-2003 |
It's not really so bad. Scrap the block for sure, but consider the easy option. You can buy a complete secondhand motor for just UKL2,500 with a guarantee. That includes ancilliaries and a subframe with suspension thrown in. Sure, fitting it all will take a lot of time or a doubling of the purchase costs of the consignment. The ancilliaries alone are worth that, and a subframe may be handy. It all depends on whether you have the space to store those spare items needed only once a century, and only if you are unlucky enough to need them. RHT. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 21 Registered: 8-2009 |
Thanks for the support folks. Here are some pictures. Left side:  Right side:  I am in Russia. It's totally different to the rest of the worls: There are no wrecked cars on sale. Due to excessive import customs charges, any wrecked car usually gets fully recovered. That's why wrecked cars are not much cheaper than good condition ones. Re. the price and whether it would be recovered within a decade or not: the cheapest Silver Spirit I on sale now in Russia is 45 000 US dollars. | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Frequent User Username: omar Post Number: 79 Registered: 4-2009 |
Eugene, you are right..... your engine is dead.......... no alternative but to replace it. Here is a suggestion - Fly to Dubai, I will help you buy a car, we will remove the parts you need and box them up for shipment to Russia. All the best Omar | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 22 Registered: 8-2009 |
Omar, I was not ready for this financially and think I need a time-out. I will take a couple of months break and will make a decision after that. Thanks for your invitation, this is very generous! | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 463 Registered: 6-2006 |
Yikes Eugene - Can the car get repatriated? WOW - I've never seen that before, but then we don't get the cold like you guys do. Thankfully. I must admit that I didn't like the photo you posted of the 'brake fluid' leak - much too red for my piece of mind  Time to take a deep breath and re-group. Best wishes to you though! | ||||
| Laurie Fox Frequent User Username: laurie_fox Post Number: 67 Registered: 6-2004 |
Eugene and others Somehow I have a feeling that the cracks which have shown up are not necessarily terminal. The Armstrong Siddeley 12 Plus which I had many years ago had a similar problem although it was a different kind of engine. It was a straight six with the long stroke and small bores which were typical of the days when it was made in 1936. The cast iron block had plenty of water space but the outside face of the water chamber was very thin and there was a long crack there. It was probably due to a foundry difficulty with the thin section which caused a cold shut. But it only resulted in a minor inconvenience. After I had had it for some years (in the 1950's) and spares were not easy to obtain I found an almost identical car, made in the same month, which I bought to cannibalise as necessary. It had the same crack in the block in the same place. In fact I cannibalised the first one and ran the second and between them they probably did 200.000 miles in ten years. If the crack had been more serious I would have cut the cracked part out (it was on a fairly flat surface) and put a patch over the hole held on by closely space 2BA studs in the casting, a thick gasket and nuts on the outside of the cover plate. Rather like the inspection hole that there used to be on galvanised domestic hot water tanks and on the back plate of old domestic coke fired boilers which had to cope with substantial water pressure. I suspect that the cracks was the result of the cold shuts and not due to frost damage but I can't be sure since both cars were very second-hand. But if it was frost damage then the thin wall must have given way first without damage to the rest of the blocks. Something similar might be worth while thinking about. Regards Laurie | ||||
| Gus Brogden Frequent User Username: gus Post Number: 62 Registered: 2-2008 |
My thinking is these blocks are an aluminum alloy. Does anybody know if it would be worth Eugene's while to find someone who is good with welding aluminum with a tig welder? My thoughts are, if its weldable, perhaps a try is in order and then a pressure test. That way he would know if there is any internal damage without breaking the bank. I had a welder in the shop once who had a good sideline business welding cracked motorcycle casings. I remember him saying that all MC casings can be restored to new condition. I know they were aluminum (mostly Harleys) and his work was invisible. I just dont know how this allow would weld, but it might be an avenue worth trying. Any thoughts on this....? | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 23 Registered: 8-2009 |
Gus, Two local workshops which I trust stated that I should first of all consider welding. They say that aluminium is much easier to weld than cast iron (US blocks). There are several guys in town that do this work for living (argon). It was said that welding is done with a complete engine - disassembly is not supposed to be done to avoid structure distortion. I have some time to make a decision. It would be nice to stay with an old block - purely for the sake of the matching number in the documentation (build history) and for state documents (we have block numbers stated in the registration docs). It would also be nice because it would be a living history for me. It would be a car that was resurrected from a complete wreck to the running example again. Flying Spares have a separate section dedicated to these - it's called "well beyond economical repair". The piston compression is 12 in all cylinders - not too bad, it would be a shame to throw it away. David, I missed your question about the leak-down test - it was not possible to perform at the time of purchase because the pump was leaking. There's one positive thing about my disaster - I will definitely have a chance to wash my dirty engine and compartment when I take the engine out:  | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Frequent User Username: omar Post Number: 80 Registered: 4-2009 |
Eugeine, Some very good words of wisdom from Laurie and Gus. What have you got to lose? Nothing............. Have a go and be brave......... do the best you can with regards getting a sound weld. Use thermal blankets to get the rest of the block up to temperature and if necessary hire a qualified welder. If you want to pursue the welding option, I am happy to look up the necessary qualifications you will need to specify when selecting competent welders for this application. You will then have the right level of experience to do the job. If it then goes wrong, you will have peace of mind that you could not have done any more than you already did. Another thing I would do would be to prepare myself for a head gasket replacement exercise in case you find that the gaskets have also gone. No sense in removing them till after the welding is complete and you have test run the engine to see how it behaves. all the best Omar | ||||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 915 Registered: 4-2003 |
Just a word of caution based on the appearance of the stains around the cracks - the colour suggests these are rust stains and the prime source for this would be corrosion of the wet liners in the block. I would be wary of the possibility that you might fix the cracks by welding then encounter leakage problems around the liners once the engine is fired up and run after welding. It would be a brave call to then try and replace the liners successfully in a block distorted by both the welding process and the large number of freezing cycles it would have experienced while laid up. I would replace the engine and then experiment with the original engine as time and money permitted. If it is successfully repaired and test run for enough time for any problems to become apparent; it could then be put back into the car to make it original and the replacement engine sold or kept for future use. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 26 Registered: 8-2009 |
The car is out of the workshop today. I drove the car back home from the workshop but more on that later. The total parts cost so far: 3k GBP (excluding shipping, VAT and customs). Total services cost so far: 2300 GBP. The car received very little love in the last 10 years hence much time was spent trying to take something off. There was a week spent on the braking system alone. It has been completely rebuilt with many new pipes, new caliper seal kits and pistons, new brake rotors all around and even replacement brake distribution valves. The parking brake has been brought to life again after many years of being broken and unused. All wheel bearings have been replaced just to be on the safe side. Same with the lower ball joints. The gearbox has new gasket, filter and o-ring as well as new oil. It is driving smooth. More on that later as well. The engine - you know about. Despite this, the service guys spent 12 hours changing the oil sump. This is due to the fact that you can't simply pull it off - most of the front suspension has to come off before you can pull it away (Workshop manual doesn't state that!). Red anti-freeze was used to block-up as much of the cracks as possible. For piece of mind, the twin distributor drive belt, thermostat (it was missing, chops of wood were inserted instead before!), spark plugs, air filter have all been changed. There was a reconditioned water pump fitted as well. As was mentioned, I drove the car home today (8 miles) and cruised around the area to get a feel of it for the first time. It is getting quite a bit of attention on the road. It was the first time I drove a Rolls-Royce and I really enjoyed it. It is extremely comfortable to drive, and very quiet. Actually, it is so quiet, you can hardly hear the V8 when you revv it up and you can hardly hear the horn. There are a few noises inside that need to be identified and rectified. There is a noise coming from the engine that sounds like one of the bad/broken engine rubber supports - even with the engine non-operational I still hear it when I close the door. All of this will have to be attended at a later time when I fix larger issues. The brakes are a little hard (harder than my other car) and I am wondering whether this is normal. The gearbox is nice and smooth. I had a fear that it would have to be rebuilt. I didn't try the kickdown but the the gear change is nearly invisible. Despite being able to drive, the car still needs a lot of work and quite a few parts have to be acquired (put aside the engine issue). There is a paintjob needed for my toy too. It looks great on the pictures but is not so nice with many large chips when you look closer. It would probably make sense to do the engine and the paintjob at the same time so I am saving up for this. Just learnt today that an engine rebuild, should I decide to get the new block only, is going to cost 400 GBP, and another 400 GBP to take the engine out and put it back in. This might be the most cost-effective way of solving my disaster. I am intending to drive the car to the registration place next week to get it registered under my name and also hopefully do the MOT too. Just have to watch the engine coolant level and top-up as and when necessary. Some pictures near the place where I live:     I took a video as well and will post at a later time. | ||||
| Brian Crump Frequent User Username: brian_crump Post Number: 58 Registered: 2-2007 |
These photos show a very, very beautiful place. Thank you for posting the photos. I am sorry that the Spur is proving to be troublesome but hopefully you will end up with a motor car that you are delighted to own and drive. Kind regards, Brian Crump | ||||
| Gus Brogden Frequent User Username: gus Post Number: 64 Registered: 2-2008 |
Eugene- you did a ton of work to her in a short time. Its nice to see that you have it on the road. It looks to me like you will be a good custodian of her. Good on ya. | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 465 Registered: 6-2006 |
Eugene, Good work! Nice to hear a little ( or lot in this case ) good news. Couple of questions - What do you mean by the brakes are hard? What is the "red anti-freeze" you used? Good luck with the MOT & Registration. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 27 Registered: 8-2009 |
Gus, Brian, thanks for your warm words! Good morning Paul, by hard brakes I meant I am having to apply too much pressure to move the pedal down. This is in contrast with my Dodge Ram where even putting the leg on the pedal without applying pressure will cause the pedal to move slightly down. I am not sure whether it is normal to have to apply so much force to move the pedal. The workshop used the red colour antifreeze concentrate (don't know the brand) and mixed it with distilled water (I asked them to use 50/50 ratio). I am just going to buy an already mixed bottle of this red stuff. Will be using a proper colour anti-freeze once I change the block (as per the handbook - ICI 007/400F) | ||||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 1177 Registered: 4-2003 |
Rather belatedly can I comment on the engine. The prognosis on the block is surely terminal. These castings as clever as they were, when subjected to neglect, overheating and frost just give up! Spirit blocks particularly when driven hard and badly tuned will often split vertically right through the main bearing saddles. When fitting liners it is not uncommon for the actual aperture at the top of the block that the lip of the liner sits in is distorted. So considering doctoring the block would be tantamount to restoring the Titanic! As already recommended, get another engine from Flying Spares or a similar wrecker and have it checked before installing it. In the meantime, from what has been done to the car so far you may as well run the current engine into the ground so to speak. When it stops is when you put the replacement in! Meanwhile use cooling system sealants and an antifreeze. Here we use Barr's Leaks which is amazing in filling leaks in radiators. Consider epoxy glues in the cracks, give the poor thing the cleanest oil and filters and change them every 1000K and don't take any long trips unless you have gauranteed road service! Lastly the fact that you have not abandoned what was clearly an unfortunate buy is simply commendable and an inspiration to many people who thought they had a problem with their car when the glove box lid kept falling open!! | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 28 Registered: 8-2009 |
As promised, here's a short video clip of me driving around: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgSqxtt4NnM | ||||
| Lawrence Heasman Frequent User Username: lheasman Post Number: 51 Registered: 5-2008 |
Hi Eugene, Notice from your pics you are missing the centre emblem from your wheels. Came accross these on Ebay. Not sure if they are the right size though. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230385589322&ssPageName=ADME:B:FSEL:GB:1123 | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 29 Registered: 8-2009 |
Lawrence, many thanks for sending that link. I have all 4 caps but you can see the appauling condition they're in:  All 4 locks are missing. The rubber o-rings are missing. The chrome has peeled off and the previous owner has glued foil over the places where chrome peeled off. The re-chroming prices in Russia are so high that I might as well buy the new ones. Taking into account that I have to purchase a set of new locks and o-rings, I definitely should go for the new ones or at least good set of used ones. Unless of course I would send these for re-chroming to the UK, but I don't know how much this costs over there. I was going to leave the replacement of these until later date when I fix the bigger issues but I happen to know the seller and will get in touch with him. Perhaps he has another set of 4. | ||||
| James Feller Frequent User Username: james_feller Post Number: 90 Registered: 5-2008 |
Eugene, It's been said before WOW! and good on you for sticking with it. I was very sorry to read the above but your persistance will pay off. "Contact the Seller'..... goodness I would have thought if you were still speaking the him OK but frankly I would be doing more than that in light of the 'issues' you are dealing with on your old girl.!! However I dont know the situation and its only my assumption. As for redoing the wheels maybe it would be more cost effective to send them to UK to be done?? (PS the foil shiplapping on the chrome centrecaps.... jesus who was the person that did that, its not a bad job by the picture but in all honesty its complete waste of time) Cheers J | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 468 Registered: 6-2006 |
Eugene, I'm not a great lover of bars leak myself , I find it leaves too many deposits that settle in the engine. Especially in the back waters like Cloud heater Mattrixes. I've used Wynns radiator / coolant stop leak with some success in the past. Use it to seal the leak then change coolant after about a month. K-Seal is another product that I haven't tried myself, but have seen good reviews for it. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 30 Registered: 8-2009 |
James, I meant I will contact the seller of those nice wheel hubcaps. I did get in touch with John and he doesn't have a set of 4. I'll have to wait until I get the major stuff purchased and done. As far as the car seller is concerned - I don't believe he realised he had a cracked block. After owning the car for 2 years he didn't learn or know anything about it. Paul, thanks for the advice on the filler. I'll get one of these today together with some other minor liquid stuff. | ||||
| John Shostrom Prolific User Username: silvawraith2 Post Number: 103 Registered: 4-2005 |
Eugene, as others have stated in this thread, "Wow" but I cannot agree more with Bill and others: you are definitely to be commended not only for your efforts, and not giving up, but for your exemplary attitude. Over the years I've seen so many of our cars abandoned for the most miniscule of things, and you're definitely an inspiration to us all. I'm sure the others will join me in wishing you continued success, and in supplying you with all the support, advice and encouragement we can muster. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 31 Registered: 8-2009 |
Went to register the car at the police today. Good news is - it doesn't look like it on the crime database. Bad news is they are trying to refuse with the registration because the initial registration of this car looks suspicious (different dates in different documents). I don't know what the outcome of this will be, but I am working on getting the car registered. | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 32 Registered: 8-2009 |
I finally got the car registered today. I can not express the relief and happiness. Another stage is passed. I am getting closer... | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 474 Registered: 6-2006 |
GOOD JOB EUGENE! Well done. And good luck for the future! | ||||
| Peter Maclaren Experienced User Username: ludo Post Number: 12 Registered: 4-2009 |
Hi Eugene,well done from me too. Have been following your posts with great interest and admire your commitment and tenacity in facing each new problem, then overcoming it. Enjoyed your short video-couldn't understand a word your photographer said, but it sounded favourable. Best of luck and look forward to reading more in the future | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 37 Registered: 8-2009 |
There has not been much progress lately as I am having to attend at personal issues. But I did manage to get the car MOTd today. It is now legal for me to drive around the public roads. I get asked many questions while I drive around. The most frequent question so far is: when was this car made? | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 38 Registered: 8-2009 |
While I am doing little fixes here and there I wanted to show you some pictures and ask some questions. Surely a pic of the day is the keys that I have found throughout the car:   Does anyone recognize what number 8 is for? Here is a picture of another broken key that was found in the lock of the tape box between the front seats:  I have discovered a couple of wires under the bonnet that were EATEN by rats sometime before I acquired the car:  What are these wires (shown by the arrow)? I noticed that my windscreen wipers are not functioning but I am not sure whether these wires are responsible for the wipers. On that picture above you can see excrements left by the rats when they lived there (top right). Poor old Spur, it really didn't deserve this! No worries, this will be cleaned up when we take out the engine. I can solder the wiring back as well. There also seems to be something missing that was held by these two bolts:  Do you know what was supposed to be there? I have unscrewed a cartridge for the missing mobile phone unit in the boot and discovered the empty service plate.  The build history ordered from the Hunt House (RREC) doesn't contain any service history. I am a bit lost as to what else I could do to find out the service history of this car. I would be grateful for any answers, advice or help with any of the questions. | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Frequent User Username: omar Post Number: 94 Registered: 4-2009 |
Eugene, Maybe Key 8 is a red herring for your car. It is possible that it does not belong to the car at all. I don't recognise it, although it has a striking resemblence to a Delsey suitcase key. Don't mess with the car keys as there is a simple solution. When you get the history form the RREC, the key number will be in that package. Send that number to enquiries@express-keys.co.uk and they will cut you a key for £9. The two empty studs in your second last image is also unused on my Bentley Turbo RL. As a rough guide, rechroming the 4 caps will be in the region of US$150 in Dubai. You must be aware that rechroming is a complex process that very few companies get right. There is plenty of scope for things to go wrong. I have seen two items chromed to 2 different shades and many other horror stories like speckles and entrained particles etc. Good luck. Omar  | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 497 Registered: 6-2006 |
Eugene, The studs where the part is missing is where the airbag crash sensor is mounted. I'd guess your car does not have airbags fitted. Can you see all the colours in the loom where the wires are eaten? Or have the buggers eaten all the insulation - they doo love doing that | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 39 Registered: 8-2009 |
Omar, thanks for the link and the rechroming blessing. I will do this in the UK or will not do it at all. The UK RREC advertiser gives contacts of two companies that specialise in this business. The RREC forum has very good recommendations for one of them. Thanks Paul, the car doesn't have airbags but for some reason I have an Airbag warning signal on the instrument panel once I turn the ignition key. The owners manual doesn't tell what this means when airbags are not installed. Yes, I can see the colour. The one which was broken in two parts is blue near that red arrow. They've started chewing on the green one too but I collected the car before they've gone too far. (Message edited by eugenerus on 10 December 2009) | ||||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 499 Registered: 6-2006 |
Eugene, it sounds as though the DIP panel has been set as an 'airbag car'. There are instructions for adjusting the DIP in the workshop manual. (along with key left in, lights left on, overspeed warning, etc.). | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 41 Registered: 8-2009 |
I have found out what the key number 8 is.  This is a cartridge for the communication box in the boot. | ||||
| Dana Williams Yet to post message Username: cp361 Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2010 |
Tried to post a comment on you tube and it isn't working for some reason so I will add my support here. Best of luck to you! | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 48 Registered: 8-2009 |
Hi all, I am back. Replacing the spheres now. Can someone please confirm that I can use DOT4 as a brake fluid and Castrol TQ-D as a transmission fluid? | ||||
| Nigel Johnson Frequent User Username: nigel_johnson Post Number: 89 Registered: 12-2008 |
Hi Eugene. No, don't use DOT4. LHM mineral oil is the stuff to use for a Silver Spur. Dexron for the transmission. Regards, nigel. | ||||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 360 Registered: 7-2009 |
That would have been a costly mistake. Castrol hydraulic system mineral oil. So you know what it looks like, about a third the way down this page. http://www.derek.com.au/castrol.html Stefan | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 49 Registered: 8-2009 |
Nigel, Stefan, thanks a lot! Are there any alternatives to Castrol? Unfortunately we do not have Castrol hydraulic system mineral oil on sale in Russia... | ||||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 361 Registered: 7-2009 |
Hi Eugene, People have tried but it becomes a costly mistake. All the seals throughout the hydraulics break down. And there is a lot of them. AKA $$$$ See if you can talk to Castrol reps in Russia. There must be one if not import it. Flying Spares sells it. Search for Mineral on http://www.flyingspares.com Not sure about the hazardous nature transport wise. Stefan | ||||
| Stefan Morley Grand Master Username: myupctoys Post Number: 362 Registered: 7-2009 |
Eugene Only use the LMH not the 363. 363 is for the older cars. Both come up when searched on FS website. Stefan | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 296 Registered: 4-2009 |
Dear Eugene, You can try the Citroen dealer - they may have this oil. Alternatively try the Jaguar dealer (this oil was used in the Daimler models in the 80s and 90s). Good Luck Omar | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Experienced User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 50 Registered: 8-2009 |
I checked and there might be a possibility to get Catrol LHM plus or Total LHM Plus. Is this compatible? | ||||
| Eugene Oleinik Frequent User Username: eugenerus Post Number: 51 Registered: 8-2009 |
By the way, what amount of hydraulic fluid will I need? 7 litres? | ||||
| Omar M. Shams Prolific User Username: omar Post Number: 297 Registered: 4-2009 |
Castrol LHM is what I use in my Bentleys. If you buy a good quantity of oil you will always have enough for future work on the hydraulic system. |
