| Author | Message | ||
     James Feller Frequent User Username: james_feller Post Number: 61 Registered: 5-2008 |
Hello All, To those who know, I am after a bit of info please, Richard, Bill, Paul? After much toing and froing.. I am picking up my new addition on Saturday a dark blue 89 Turbo RL. After reading about improvements that were made during the production run of these terrific cars 'transient boost' was added in about 94' I think. I have read about earlier cars that have been retrofitted with TB Kits with success. What does this system do and will or is it suitable to fit to an Aussie delivered 89 Turbo? Cheers J | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 358 Registered: 6-2006 |
James, I do not know how much the kit is these days but at the time that it came out, it's cost far out weighed the improvement in performance. short of changing back and forth from a car with and a car without, most people wouldn't notice. What does this system do and will or is it suitable to fit to an Aussie delivered 89 Turbo? LOL Have you got a copy of ASSIST for your car yet? Simplified - When you put your foot FULLY down it suddenly closes and tries to keep the turbo Wastegate closed for a few seconds. Up to 5 seconds. Really is transient  Unless you have money to burn, and feel the urge to stress the engine and drive train a little extra, I'd advise giving it a miss. These cars are not slouches in any case. Mind you - this is from a mechanic, not a racing driver! | ||
| Udo Hoffmüller Experienced User Username: udo Post Number: 33 Registered: 2-2008 |
Hello James, if you have TSD6000, you will find described meticulously how the system works. I have it fitted, I got the last kit available from RR. I have been told that they do not produce it any more. The kit consist of a new waste gate, two new solenoids (one is to substitute the existing one) together with a new bracket and some rubber hoses, the wiring, the boostECU. That's it. You could copy the whole thing easily if you had the ECU. The first effect is that the pressure limit is higher. Normally the security valve of the wastegate opens at about 600 mbar, the new one opens at about 700 mbar. The second effect is that in normal operation (full or nearly full acceleration) the maximum pressure is (on cars with catalyst) about 340 mbar. The new (additional) ECU makes that for about 6 or 7 seconds the pressure can go on increasing up to about 470 mbar. - Maybe the values are not absolutely correct, I did not check them in the manual. For cars without catalyst the limits are a little bit higher because the ignition is later than on catalyst cars. You can have the same effect controlled by yourself instead of the new ECU: Take off the signal hose at the solenoid, fit a voltmeter to the ATP and put it on your center console and pay attention that you don't exceed 3,7/3,8 V for more than a few seconds. ... Yes, I know, that's playing around, but that is what the electronic does for you. I guess, you will get more comments so far! Regards - Udo | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1827 Registered: 4-2003 |
Well, I cheated. I used a simple electronic timer with a few interlocks and an amplifier/attenuator to reduce the pressure signal from the APT as recognised by the ECU by a limited amount for 10 second whenever the TPS hits full, and also a few other sundry bits for protection. Although now unavailable, Udo's revised wastegate and superior controls are the best way to go of course, but there are several brave UK outfits which still offer aftermarket kits. Maybe, just maybe, Udo's kit is causing some interaction to cause boost dropout at 2'000rpm ?? I can't recommend my own eclectic modification otherwisde I may be sued for a blown motor. See below the blown piston of a Turbo R with the boost limiter set just a little too high !! Unlike most piston failures, this one was not caused by overcooling due to a missing or faulty coolant thermostat or heavy engine oil. Best keep the schematic to myself ! Udo's car has a cross-bolted crankcase and an air-to-air intercooler, and a factory kit. Air-to-air intercoolers have a limited time in which they are effective too, so an intake temperature transducer is advisable whether you have an intercooler or not. Liquid intercoolers are far better but still imperfect. Best leave that all to Crewe and brave aftermaket blokes ! RT. Bother.  | ||
| Udo Hoffmüller Experienced User Username: udo Post Number: 35 Registered: 2-2008 |
Richard, with the problem of my turbo we are dealing in the other thread. But it is for sure that there is no interaction between the two ECUs as far to the boost dropout at 2.000 rpm - because the boostECU is simply no connected at the moment. But, and that is interesting, from about 3.000 rpm upwards the voltage jumps up to about 9,7 V again! I will test this strange behaviour this weekend on a trip and tell you more in the other thread. And I will search again in the manual if there is something similar described. Regards - Udo | ||
| James Feller Frequent User Username: james_feller Post Number: 63 Registered: 5-2008 |
Thanks Guys, I think the concenses is to leave alone. I will do just that. I went for a good blast on Saturday and yes it really is not short on power in fact I was amazed at the easy way it just climbed hills without rasing a sweat! I'm sure there will be other things to spend the money on... I do want to put the Flying B hood ornament on it and the bloody tyres... god they make a noise.. Yokahamas... trouble is they are near new and frankly I hate them but would seem a waste to dump them with all that tread. Anyone want or know of someone that would like them for a reasonable $ each? At speed you cannot hear them its just when you are moving slowly that you can. J |
