| Author | Message | ||
     Ian Case Yet to post message Username: ian_case Post Number: 1 Registered: 6-2007 |
Hi Chaps, I wonder if anyone can help? I have read with great interest the thread on removing starter on a Turbo. I have to remove the starter on my Spirit and wondered if the same applies. I have had a look underneath and it looks like the exhaust is definitely in the way but if easier to remove steering column?? Can anyone shed some light on the nature of the fixings, is there three and are they set screws or nuts etc. The reason I am taking the motor off is that I have been advised that my metallic tinkling noise, and now seemingly missing the cogs at first starting, could be the starter gunged up over time. This is especially relevant as my car has only done 17k miles from new so has stood around quite a bit. I have also read a thread about using the cars and fully intend to do this when I again feel happier with the car. Any photos / diagrams would be most useful and appreciated. Regards Ian | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 733 Registered: 4-2003 |
This is one for Bill Coburn however I would also like to ask Bill if the Spirits have an earthing strap between the starter motor mounting bolt and the chassis similar to the one used on the shadows? The noise sounds like a chipped drive pinion or a failed throw-out drive. | ||
| Bill Coburn Moderator Username: bill_coburn Post Number: 909 Registered: 4-2003 |
Ian/ Sorry that you haven't had a reply my time has been spent trying to save the Technical Library. The starter on all the vee eights is held on by three bolts and you do have to drop the exhaust. No big deal and it is a good opportunity to clean up the mess that accumulates. David the Spirits don't have that strap which I had forgotten about until I was poking around a 1972 car that has landed on my web. Ian if the starter motor is at all faulty, toss it out and install the newer Nippondenso unit available from British Starters on the Web. These were adopted in 1987 by the Factory and are simpler quieter and more effective. You might also consider an upgraded version of the Nippondenso that Robert Chapman in Melbourne is having manufactured. This has an even more powerful motor. It is allegedly so powerful that if the car is standing on slippery ground and the starter operated, the car will finish up on its roof! (Joke) | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 1262 Registered: 4-2003 |
There are many ways to skin a cat, and no two Crewe cars are the same. What year model are we talking about here, and does it have catalytic converters ? Just to post my own experiences regarding how to exit the starter, you do have a choice of lowering the rack a little or removing the exhaust section nearby. The catalytic converter, where fitted, reduces access a little but not by too much. I personally hate touching exhaust systems. They are always in danger of having seized bolts and the like. For that reason, on my '87 Turbo R I lowered the steering rack in preference, and the starter came out with no problem. The rack hydraulics and tie rods don't need touching, just the four mounting bolts and the splined drive to the rack input at the end of the lower steering column link. By releasing the lower column link it also makes access to the starter retaining bolts vastly easier. I showed that all on an earlier thread. If you can access the bolts with the exhaust in place, which should not be too hard, I would always drop the rack to exit the starter rather than removing the exhaust. I might note that, as on our '72, a 20,000-series SZ does have an earthing strap on the middle of the three retaining bolts. Maybe it was dropped at some stage and reintroduced with the Nippondenso starter. Later cars only have two retaining bolts but are still compatible. Because the strap is secured by a retaining nut on a header thread of the centre bolt, a long-reach 3/8" drive socket will make it all possible. Normal 1/2" drive sockets are too clumsy in these confined spaces I find. The top retaining bolt comes undone from the rear of the transmission-to-bellhousing adaptor plate using about 1M of socket extensions and a universal drive. 3/8” drive long-reach socket:  |
