| Author | Message | ||
     Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 150 Registered: 09-2021 |
Have been looking for 2 hrs on how to unplug toe board multiwire plugs to check for corrosion and have not found anything in any Workshop manual I have Anyone know how to do it? This is a 1986 Silver Spirit 14XXX left hand drive Trying to open the toe board plug on the right side forward of the fuse panel | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 408 Registered: 10-2009 |
They are just very tight. I made a crude tool which helps to get good grip. There is no retainer, just pressure from eight tight spades. When you put them back smother them with petroleum jelly (Vaseline). If you find a corroded one there are several unused positions - with luck one may be on the same plug. Alan D. | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 856 Registered: 05-2016 |
WD40 spray might help. | ||
| Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 151 Registered: 09-2021 |
Thanks guys! Boy, swapping spade holes (if needed)looks like a real project having to get at both sides. Again thanks! | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 409 Registered: 10-2009 |
Cliff, you don't need to swap spades - they are all populated. It makes the "missing connector" safety system work. Alan D. | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 410 Registered: 10-2009 |
Sorry, I think I just posted RUBBISH. There is a missing spade to match the blanked-off connector. Alan D. | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 856 Registered: 11-2017 |
Wd-40 will not help you. Use a electrical contact cleaner, and once cleaned, use dielectric grease to keep the contacts from surface corrosion. | ||
| Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 152 Registered: 09-2021 |
Digging into it over the weekend THANKS again for the help I have to look again to see which side pulls off- inside the car or in the engine compartment. This is all for an intermittent starter issue | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3382 Registered: 06-2009 |
I have to disagree with Mr. Sprauer in regard to dielectric grease. Used as intended, it's applied on the outside of a given connection, somewhat like a sloppy insulator, whose purpose is to keep moisture out and prevent corrosion, and dielectric grease *IS* an insulator. It should never be applied to contacts because it will, if anything, increase resistance. There are electrically conductive greases meant for coating the surfaces that touch one another in electrical connections that also serve the corrosion prevention function of dielectric grease, and that's all I use in connections like the toeboard connectors. Here are two examples. I have been using the first one for years now, and have never once had to revisit a connection that was appropriately cleaned first, and this used as the "preservative" on the contacts afterward. Sanchem NoOxID A-Special Gardner-Bender Ox-Gard Brian | ||
| Alan Dibley Frequent User Username: alsdibley Post Number: 412 Registered: 10-2009 |
If you can not get the magic special greases I recommend "Vaseline" smothered all over. It makes it a bit messy but has lasted for the 22 years since I applied it when I first put the car on the road (1971 Bentley T). | ||
| Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 154 Registered: 09-2021 |
Got out to the blocks inside the bonnet and I was able to check those albeit with some difficulty as they are in there tight! Still working an electrical issue in the starting circuit that seems to have no resolution in over a year. Its driving me up a wall and its only a simple 12V DC circuit!! Vaseline? Might work for those in the Great White North but here in the SW of the USA in the deserts where we get 38-40C temps it turns to liquid | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 857 Registered: 11-2017 |
Dielectric grease... Learn something https://www.nyelubricants.com/myth-grease-interferes-with-conductivity | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3386 Registered: 06-2009 |
Robert, You would do well to learn yourself. You implied that dielectric grease should be applied to the two parts of an electrical connection prior to their being put together, not after, and that is NOT best practice. For those who want to use dielectric grease, the connection should be coated after the two parts have been connected. There are many connector styles where this is not at all practical. Electrically conductive grease exists for a reason, and is neither exotic nor expensive. Using the right tools for the right task is always a good idea, and conductive grease for electrical connections is, truly, best practice. It makes more sense, but dielectric grease is absolutely better than nothing at all, as the act of sliding a connector together displaces enough at the contact surfaces to allow a connection yet protect otherwise. |
