| Author | Message | ||
     Charles Drakoulas New User Username: free_spirit Post Number: 40 Registered: 01-2016 |
Hello All, I was driving on freeway at about 100kph when I observed some erratic warning lights on my instrument cluster. Low mineral oil etc. I then realised that I had zero acceleration as the engine just stopped. Fortunately other motorists allowed me to coast from the right lane accross to the left and then finally come to a rolling stop on the freeway shoulder. I cranked to no avail. Eventually the tow truck arrived and towed it home, and so it sits until my mechanic returns to open up in early October. I feel that this may be something simple that isnt apparent to me. I have pulled relays and checked fuses as I suspected fuel pump but really dont know how to check properly. Im not even sure that I pulled the correct relay for the pump. Im hoping that I can get some direction here. Cheers Charles | ||
| Robert J. Sprauer Frequent User Username: wraithman Post Number: 839 Registered: 11-2017 |
A sudden failure is usually electrical. Fuel issues when they occur usually involve sputtering until the fuel is burned off. I suggest cranking and looking for a spark at the plug itself. No spark, it's the coil or module. | ||
| Charles Drakoulas New User Username: free_spirit Post Number: 41 Registered: 01-2016 |
Thanks Robert, Certainly makes sense. Ill investigate in that direction. Cheers | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 792 Registered: 07-2015 |
Hi not sure of 94 is it coil per cylinder or twin distributors? I've known the ign relay to fail. Check for over heated fuses. Good luck Mike | ||
| Mark Herbstreit Frequent User Username: mark_herbstreit Post Number: 245 Registered: 05-2005 |
It could be as simple as a loose battery connection | ||
| Graham Phillips Frequent User Username: playtime Post Number: 556 Registered: 03-2019 |
G'day everyone,.... You mention low mineral oil warning light? Is there a safety cut out for the ignition if the fluid level drops so you will have enough brakes to stop? Graham. | ||
| Charles Drakoulas New User Username: free_spirit Post Number: 42 Registered: 01-2016 |
Hi All, Just in answer to some of the questions and a further update. Firstly its a coil per cylinder setup and both hydraulic reservoirs are full to the top so cant understand the low mineral oil warning lights before the motor just stopped. Today I tinkered with electrical and found that the fuel pump relay wasn't tripping during cranking. Manual actuation of its internal contacts resulted in a fuel gushing noise within the fuel pipes in the engine bay. I then checked the fuel cutoff inertia switch and found it to be operating correctly. I decided that since I manually pushed fuel in the lines that the motor would at least fire up during attempted start but that didnt occur. I checked for spark---there was none. So here we are, no fuel and no spark. Is there a protection circuit that cuts both off whilst driving or how about a crank angle sensor scenario or worse, the whole engine control module. Your thoughts? | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 793 Registered: 07-2015 |
Immobiliser maybe? have you ever changed the battery in the module? Ign relay by the fuse box? Do you have supply to the fuses at all? Mike | ||
| Charles Drakoulas New User Username: free_spirit Post Number: 43 Registered: 01-2016 |
UPDATE. Its fixed. After a sleepless night and a bit more research I was lead to the main engine relay that was nicely disguised as one of the others in the block. I put a tester on it, no resistance, I pulled it apart and there is a resistor inside that just crumbled. When placed back in the car without its cover I was able to manually get the contacts to touch during cranking. She fired right up. I've got 2 coming by express post. Thanks to all for your input and collective wisdom. Cheers Charles | ||
| Larry Kavanagh Frequent User Username: shadow_11 Post Number: 845 Registered: 05-2016 |
Well done. Happy motoring. | ||
| Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 118 Registered: 09-2021 |
Ive found it good practice to always change out any relays in any circuit that I am having problems with as a FIRST action to trouble shoot. Have replaced many relays in 2 years solving several issues. And have gone down many rabbit holes when I didn't! | ||
| Cliff Biggs Experienced User Username: cliffy Post Number: 120 Registered: 09-2021 |
Even NEW relays can fail upon installation and drive one nuts until the entire cycle of trouble shooting is circled again! Don't ask me how I know :-) | ||
| Darryl Watson Frequent User Username: inox Post Number: 204 Registered: 04-2015 |
Following three relay failures, two within a month of each other the second when on holiday, I replaced all of the Bosch metal cased relays, (number 0 332 204 122), about thirty in total. The replacement number is Bosch 0 332 209 152. I purchased then from a company in Estonia at a significantly lower cost than purchasing in the UK or other European countries. | ||
| michael vass Frequent User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 804 Registered: 07-2015 |
I've found Chinese one's of better quality than tin Bosch ones, I've helped several of my friends with intermittent failures to proceed. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 3361 Registered: 06-2009 |
Michael, I'll second your observation. I've found Chinese "no name" relays to be more reliable than Lucas ones. If one pays careful attention to where any of the big brand name products are actually manufactured, very often that's China, Mexico, or India for auto parts. All of these countries are perfectly capable of making top shelf product all the way down to crap. But certain things are so inexpensive to make at "top notch" level there's no point in going for cheaper. If you ever take the time to open up a few relays, they fall into the "virtually the same, no matter whose" category. Brian |
